Rear Subrame Removal q's - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
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Rear Subrame Removal q's

After the exhaust/fuel tank/driveshaft/shock top nuts are all out of the way what am I looking at to drop the entire rear sub frame out from under the car. I'm hoping to get my mk vIII parted out here before the snow flies.

Thanks!
David
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 08:47 AM
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As long as the exhaust is out of the way and the drive shaft is unbolted, it should be clear to come down.

You need to unbolt the shocks in order to take the pressure off of the springs.

The only other things I can think of would be the speed sensors located at the diff, and also the brake/ e-brake lines. If you are parting the car out, the brakes, e-brake, and speed sensors could just be cut.

The gas tank should not be in the way and would not need to be pulled in order to drop the frame.

Take a good 6 point 15 mm socket and a breaker bar (you may also need a cheater pipe for leverage) and you should be good to drop the entire assembly.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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how many bolts hold up the subframe?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 11:26 AM
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4. They're probably seized if it's ever been driven in snow though

-Matt
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 11:42 AM
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They very well may be seized. And that's not a big issue if your just parting it out. I did a Michigan Mark VIII 4 months ago and all 4 were seized, but with a 6 foot pipe, I was able to snap the bolts right off at the heads. After all the bolts were broke, the subframe stayed in the car. ( I believe because the sleeves were bonded to the rubber isolaters) I took that same 6 foot pipe and used it to pry the frame off of the body. It was a little harsh, but on a part out, it was fine. (I tried using heat/ fire in a few places, but I found that leverage and shear force was the best tool for getting this job done.)

For others reading this that are planning on dropping the subframe on their nice cars with minimal damage, I have a theory about drilling an ~1/8" hole through the rubber insulator and through the metal sleeve to gain access to the bolt. Then spray PB Blaster in the hole and let it soak for a week before attempting to unbolt everything. This should let the bolt spin freely. I think I will be trying this when I drop the frame in by Bird when it gets its delrin overhaul.

1995 T-Bird.
PI 4.6. Bullitt intake. Stage 2 MHS cams. Kooks Headers. 4,200 ATF Speed converter. BCA Transmission. 4:10s. Tune by Supercoupes Unlimited. 245 RWHP.
3,700 lbs at half tank. Goal- 3,400 lbs
Best of 13.85 at 96 mph. Goal- 11's NA

1997 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC- stock

1997 Lincoln Mark VIII FX2 Sand Dune Machine- R.I.P.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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ok thanks guys. i was honestly thinking about just trying to snap the mounting bolts with my impact. I am parting the car and its from Iowa. Being on a farm we have lots of long pry bars and a skid loader with fork lift ties so I think we will get it off
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 03:06 PM
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Careful with the impact. The biggest issues I've seen with this is rounding the heads off the bolts. That would be bad.

1995 T-Bird.
PI 4.6. Bullitt intake. Stage 2 MHS cams. Kooks Headers. 4,200 ATF Speed converter. BCA Transmission. 4:10s. Tune by Supercoupes Unlimited. 245 RWHP.
3,700 lbs at half tank. Goal- 3,400 lbs
Best of 13.85 at 96 mph. Goal- 11's NA

1997 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC- stock

1997 Lincoln Mark VIII FX2 Sand Dune Machine- R.I.P.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 07:27 AM
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Having done this once before, and been successful. My pro tip would be to unbolt the rear brake line bracket from the chassis, then stick the nozzle of a PB blaster or WD-40 can into the hole and spray all around inside the chassis in that area as that is the realm that holds the nut for those bolts. Let it soak up pretty good for a while and then you should have no problems with removal. I went to the junk yard and pulled several bolts and keep extras on hand, they can corrode away pretty bad if your car was in any salt/snow. An impact might also be a good idea as it will put a quick jolt on the bolt to break it free of corrosion, instead of slowly trying to turn it loose from the car which could result in a high load and eventual snap/breakage of the bolt.



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