Different ways to hook temp guage sender?? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-31-2003, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
 
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Different ways to hook temp guage sender??

I know that there is a sending block for it and that I could also weld a bung to the pan. But I don't want it in the pan because I want a good reading. And I bought the block, but despite the fact that I used plumbing tape, it leakes out of the side. Is there any other way to get the sender into the line, short of making my own block? Thanks a lot,

Preston
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-31-2003, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
 
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Also, does anyone know which size fittings and nipples to order? I checked at all the local shops and no one has the right size. When I look in Summit, all the fittings are like -6AN, but no sizes. So if someone could tell me the specific ones to order it would be much appreciated. Thanks,

Preston
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-31-2003, 09:34 AM
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What are you hooking up a temp sensor too? and in hose size a dash is 1/16
so a -6an would be 3/8 !

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-31-2003, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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Sorry, it's for my transmission.

Preston
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-31-2003, 08:47 PM
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My Temp sender is in the top of my aux filter.... When I installed the GT transmission, I also installed a B&M cooler and aux filter... the filter mount has a threaded hole in the top specifically for a temp sender...

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-31-2003, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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Is that one of the in-line magnetic filters? Where did you get it?

Thanks,

Preston
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-31-2003, 11:58 PM
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I didnt buy a block, i went out and bought a tee fitting and plumbed that into the line... mine is right by the lower radiator inlet. I cut the old fitting off and used shorter fittings in order to clear the radiator hose. installed a new fitting on the shortened lower line, reflared it, and installed the fittings. No leaks, first try. If youve changed fittings, make sure the threads are all the right types, etc. if all else checks out, then take it off, put another wrap of tape on it and try again.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-01-2003, 12:34 PM
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No. It is a B&M screw on filter kit. It takes either a Fram PH8A or Mobil1 M1-301 (I think) as a replacement. This is the kit I installed... I would think that a filter such as this would stop metallic particles at least as well as the magnetic in-line filter...



Quote:
Originally posted by SmallTownBird
Is that one of the in-line magnetic filters? Where did you get it?

Thanks,

Preston

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2003, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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I got my auto-meter sending block to work with no leaks. But the guage still reads the way it was before i hooked up the sender. It reads right below 100, so either it isn't working, or the cooler is working really well and my tranny is cold. Do I need to ground the sender somewhere? It doesn't sau anything about that in the instructions. It's hooked up with rubber hose on each end in one of the transmission lines. Thanks,

Preston
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-04-2003, 12:17 AM
 
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The sender has to have 2 wires to function - Generally one to the gauge and one to ground. If the sender is not grounded, it won't work - unless by magic.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-04-2003, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
 
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So should I just screw another wire onto right next to the sending wire, or should I ground it off of something else? Thanks a lot,

Preston
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-05-2003, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
 
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Ok, I went out and put a ground wire on there. I put the ground wire on the bottom part of the threaded piece that sticks out of the sender. THe signal wire is on the top of the piece. Now, as soon as I put the car in the run position the guage pegs itself all the way past 250, and this is with the car off. Did I do something wrong or is my guage/sender broken? This is kinda of a pain. I drove the car around for about half an hour hoping it would work its way back down, but it didn't. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Preston
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-05-2003, 08:04 AM
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If I'm not mistaken (I've got an Autometer Pro Sport guage ready to go in) the ground wire is attached to the guage ground terminal, NOT the sending unit. The sending unit should already be grounded by it's attachment to a metal part of the engine.

The sending unit wire goes from the guage to the sending unit. The ground wire goes from the guage to a convienient ground. Should only be one wire to the guage and it will be the positive side of the connection.

I don't know enough to tell you if you have damaged your guage by running it the way it was hooked up. I hope you haven't....

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-05-2003, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
 
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The guage is grounded. On the back there is a sending unit post, a ground post and an ignition post, I believe. I have those hooked up. But I've seen on here where guys run a ground from the sender also. That is what I did. And once I did the guage finally moved, it just moved al the way to the 250 mark.

Preston
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-05-2003, 05:36 PM
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sounds like you hooked a ground directly to the wire that the sender is on... thatll cause the 250+ reading. Dont do that. Just make sure the brass part has contact with something metal - you want to ground the sender, not the wire. the resistance of the sender depends on heat. and that's what makes the guage work. no ground to the sender, 0* reading...

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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-05-2003, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ok, I went out and changed how the sender was grounded. I tried grounding it numerous different ways and it still does it. Right now the sending block is up against the front sway bar and it is grounded, but the guage still jumps over 250 immediatly. Any ideas?

Preston
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-05-2003, 09:25 PM
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Wish i had some pictures to explain what youve got... but the bottom line is that theres a short somewhere. theres a raw ground somewhere between the sender and the guage... whatever it is remove it. the sender should be screwed into a metal line, so it should be self-grounding. there should be one wire run straight from the sender to the guage... also check the guage to see if the ground is touching the sender wire on the back.

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97 Thunderbird 4.6L LX /w Sport Package
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-05-2003, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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I don't feel like going out and lying on the wet ground for a picture, so I'll try and explain. I didn't screw the block into the transmission line, it was too much of a pain getting my big hands in there. So I plumbed it into the tranny cooler line. So right now there is rubber on both ends. That is why there isn't a ground anywhere. But when the block is up against the sway bar there is metal contact. So I will go out and check the sending wire tomorrow and make sure that the sending unit isn't touching any metal. Thanks for the help.

Preston
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-05-2003, 11:32 PM
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okay, that explains it. if the sender is placed in the middle of a rubber hose, there's no ground at all.... let me see if i can clarify some more.

In a normal setup, all of the chassis and related parts are grounds. the ground goes through the metal line to the bottom of the brass sender. the sender then acts like a big resistor and reduces the voltage before the ground goes to the guage. as temperature varies, so does the resistance of the sender.

somehow you need to get a ground attached near the base of the sender for it to work... your other option is to put the sender somewhere in the metal line.

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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-05-2003, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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So, near the base of the sender, like on the bung it screws into, or between that bung and the bottome bolt? I tried those places and it still did the same thing.

I appreciate the help and sorry that I have such an electrical incompetence

Preston
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post #21 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-05-2003, 11:58 PM
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keep in mind, it takes quite a while to get heat into a tranny - engines have 1500*F hot spots, and trannies dont generate that much heat... but it takes 2-3x as long to get the tranny up to operating temperature. Just b/c it reads low after a 10 min. drive from a cold start may not be a bad reading. The problem is it's equally tough to get the heat out, hence the need for aftermarket coolers.

on a normal setup, the sender would be grounded by the part where it threads into the (tee, sending block, whatever), so try to place the ground as close to there as possible.

96 Mustang GT 5spd. w/ 248A Option (GTS). Stock for now until I get the Roush on.

97 Thunderbird 4.6L LX /w Sport Package
24k B&M Cooler, 1" lowered, Steeda UD Pulleys, Dynomax cat-back, J-mod, 3.73's, PI intake, PI cams, 03 GT MAF/Tube, SCT tuned - Gone but not forgotten.
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