1st/Rev hesitant to engange after J-mod? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2003, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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1st/Rev hesitant to engange after J-mod?

Yeah. Did the j-mod.. lost OD like everybody else that dinked with the OD servo.. but 1st gear and reverse seem, how shall we say, hesitant to engage. I have to give it a little gas to get the car going in either gear. Also, I don't seem to be getting any engine braking when I downshift to 2nd from 3rd (OD is disengaged, so I've only got 3 gears right now) it just drops to neutral. What's up with that? Did I drill something wrong? Do I have one of the dreaded cross-leaks? WTF?!

Oh. Here's what I did.

Updated to 99 VB, put 96 SS1, SS2, TCC selonoids on 99VB and transfered TOT sensor. Could I have reversed the shift selonoids? Can someone post a picture of their proper orientation and illustrate which selonoid is which? Drilled to mild specs.

1994 SC 5-Speed
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2253560
1996 4.6L R.I.P December 02, 2004
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2003, 12:22 AM
 
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I remember in the procedure about if a certain thing was done wrong, you would know because you would lose the OD. It has been so long since I did mine.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2003, 12:47 AM
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i remember reading in the 4R tech articles that the reverse orifice is fairly large and requires a decent amount of fluid to fill. Is the fluid to the correct mark? do you have an aux trans cooler? did you remember to add an additional quart after word?

joseph




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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2003, 01:08 AM
 
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Look in the tech articles under A-train's shift kit install. That may guide you to what you did wrong.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2003, 01:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Great Obucina
i remember reading in the 4R tech articles that the reverse orifice is fairly large and requires a decent amount of fluid to fill. Is the fluid to the correct mark? do you have an aux trans cooler? did you remember to add an additional quart after word?

joseph
I didn't drain the TQ, being that the fluid in the tranny was still pretty new looking when I dropped the pan, so I only replaced about 13 quarts of fluid. I've never really been able to read the tranny dipstick well, though it seems to be on the low end of the cool level. I think that's my problem honestly, is not having enough fluid. But what about 1st gear? Same thing? Or am I looking at some sort of leak?

1994 SC 5-Speed
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2253560
1996 4.6L R.I.P December 02, 2004
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/560841
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2003, 09:09 AM
 
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Check your fluid level. Mine did the same thing after my MOD until I got the right amount of fluid in there. My aux Tranny cooler lines have a slow leak and after a while it will do it again.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2003, 09:52 AM
 
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Is this what is happening to you:

You are in park, or neutral, you put it in drive, or 2nd, or 1st, or rev, and it takes about 2 seconds to engage?

When you cruising down the highway at 25 mph and you press it, tranny will shift into 1st immediately. When stoped at the light and press it from the light, tranny will shift into 1st immediately, e.g. no deley from the light. When you in rev and put it in drive, there is no such deley.

I have same thing, though mine is probably caused by a different thing. (pressure leak from a Trans-Go valve I installed to a wrong place) I will buy some more fluid today, and put it in there. My tranny used to have way too much fluid, like in the middle of dip stick, and now it is in the cross-hatched area. Uhh.



Now, the OD servo and spring I replaced was soooo freaking easy! You take the rooster comb spring: Remember where it used to go when you took valve body off? It used to go over some "manual shifting" teeth, right? So, you take rooster comb spring and wedge it between OD band and tranny, as described in shifty business. You may have to use pleyers, just don't break the spring, it must sit there tight. Then you take some metal rod, like blade from a file. One end of the metal rod goes into a hole in your rooster spring, under the roller, the other you put under the "manal shift teeth", so that your metal rod is pushing down on the rooster spring.

I did my OD, easy, no trouble with OD, can't tell if I got less slipping on highway, because of that pressure leak! In fact, OD was 2nd easiest to do, 1st easiest was reverse.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2003, 10:07 AM
 
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Yeah that was it...the rooster comb thingy
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2003, 06:49 PM
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your loss of 2nd manual engine braking is due to your OD servo problems... fix the OD servo, and both problems will go away.

As for the longer engagements... two things to check are fluid level and proper torque sequence/procedure. Buy new separator plate gaskets (theyre cheap!) and install them when you're done fixing the OD servo. I would make it a habit to replace those gaskets any time you drop the VB. proper installation sequence and specs are in my article in the WIP forum.

If these don't solve the problem, come back and let us know.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2003, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by mad281

Now, the OD servo and spring I replaced was soooo freaking easy! You take the rooster comb spring: Remember where it used to go when you took valve body off? It used to go over some "manual shifting" teeth, right? So, you take rooster comb spring and wedge it between OD band and tranny, as described in shifty business. You may have to use pleyers, just don't break the spring, it must sit there tight. Then you take some metal rod, like blade from a file. One end of the metal rod goes into a hole in your rooster spring, under the roller, the other you put under the "manal shift teeth", so that your metal rod is pushing down on the rooster spring.
I didn't get it when the tech article explaned it and I still don't. Bleh. Wish somebody was around SD that'd been through a J-mod before.

1994 SC 5-Speed
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2253560
1996 4.6L R.I.P December 02, 2004
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/560841

Last edited by SanDiegoLXBird; 09-16-2003 at 07:58 PM.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-16-2003, 09:48 PM
 
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Look into the holes around OD servo. There would be some holes with aluminum at the bottom, and then there is one hole with black stuff in the bottom. You put the rooster comb spring into that hole. Basically there is only one way to put it in there, you can't get it wrong, damn it.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2003, 11:13 PM
 
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The OD band falls down into the bottom of the case when you take the OD servo out. It is still anchored on the driver's side. There is a hole in the bottom of the case in lateral line with the OD servo bore, and on the driver's side of the bore, that lets you poke a screwdriver up and push the band back into contact with its drum. This will let you poke a second rod or phillips up the OD servo bore and engage the pocket at the end of the band like the OD servo does. If you release the first poker and push the pocket up as far as it will go, then put pressure on the first poker, the pocket will stay in the right place for the snout on the OD servo to engage it. Don't remove pressure on the first poker until the servo is installed. If it hooked up with the band pocket, the band will be pretty tight against the drum when you remove the first poker.

Got mine first try. I was lucky.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-20-2003, 05:41 PM
 
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I dropped the O/D band too, but got it back in no problem.

I did the whole thing with no help, but I had access to a lube bay so I could stand up under the car and enjoy a great t/f shower.
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