VIBRATION problems anyone...I got your fix - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-24-2003, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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VIBRATION problems anyone...I got your fix

Well today i said thats it...I'm pissed. So up on a lift the car went, I pulled the rear differential mount off the car, drilled a 1/2" hole through one side and out the other. Bouught a 4" long grade 8 bolt, 2 washers, a nut and a locking washer, and bolted it together. WELL HOLLY CRAP!!! I get on the highway, get up to 70...nothing, 80....nothing, 90...nothing...COP!! (just kidding). The vibration is gone!!! WooooHoooo!!! Plus, wheel hop has been cut drastically! And When I hit second gear hard the mount doesnt shift and clunk against the frame, and second gear wheel hop is gone. Its great.

I can't guarentee that this will fix everyones wheel hop...but i dont hear it mentioned that much as a fix for the problem. Some of you guys should try it. Chris


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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-24-2003, 10:14 PM
 
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I tried the same thing more or less. I made a adjustable rear mount so I could change the pinion angle but it didn't help and I still had the axle hop. I'm glad to hear it worked for you !! The 4 inch aluminium drive shaft was the cure for me.

Did you allways have the vibration or did it just start after the T-45 swap ?
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-24-2003, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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I had the vibration before the swap...but at 110mph. I was getting it a 65 with the T-45. But then I did bust an engine mount with the T45, and tore the rear differential mount with the T45 too. Chris

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VORTECH BLOWN w/3.12" Reichard ultra-grip pulley
TEA Stage2 PI Heads, 9.5:1 manley slugs/manley H-beams, cobra crank, VTStage3 blower cams, Trick Flow track heat intake, FMIC TR1245 intercooler, ART Dual 2.5" exhaust/Stainless/no cats, KOOKS coated headers, 4.10 w/ Auburn Pro, aluminum 8.8 housing, Dynotech driveshaft, Koni's, Eibach Springs, Baer 13" big brake kit. cobra rear brake/hub conversion, VMP Slot Blowthru setup, #60 Inj. 75mm TB,
615 rwhp/500 torque 15.5psi best of [email protected] still needs tuning.
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-24-2003, 10:40 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by CobraRThunder
I had the vibration before the swap...but at 110mph. I was getting it a 65 with the T-45. But then I did bust an engine mount with the T45, and tore the rear differential mount with the T45 too. Chris
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-25-2003, 08:32 PM
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looks like i have a new project to work on. Of course my MMC driveshaft going next week will get rid of alot of it

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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-18-2003, 11:10 PM
 
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Well I did this, and i have to say. My Pumpkin Clunk is finally gone away, I used to hear it on the Downshifts, or when i put the car in "D" or "R". The Shifts are firmer now also. On the other hand, is this bad for the rear diff cover at all? Seems like it might be putting stress on the cover when it tries to move and the bolt stops the diff mount from moving. What's the real deal on that? I'd hate to break the rear cover because of 2.50$ Nut and Bolt.
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-19-2003, 01:15 AM
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Heh.....you mean like this?






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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-19-2003, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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WHAT you DO?!!

4R70W From DirtyDog
VORTECH BLOWN w/3.12" Reichard ultra-grip pulley
TEA Stage2 PI Heads, 9.5:1 manley slugs/manley H-beams, cobra crank, VTStage3 blower cams, Trick Flow track heat intake, FMIC TR1245 intercooler, ART Dual 2.5" exhaust/Stainless/no cats, KOOKS coated headers, 4.10 w/ Auburn Pro, aluminum 8.8 housing, Dynotech driveshaft, Koni's, Eibach Springs, Baer 13" big brake kit. cobra rear brake/hub conversion, VMP Slot Blowthru setup, #60 Inj. 75mm TB,
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-19-2003, 02:07 PM
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I nailed the gas leaving a stopsign in my splitport tbird. The car spun for about two feet then hooked and POW! The car pulled hard to the right. I coasted down the street to a driveway and looked under the car to see the damage:



This was with the FRPP centersection (3.73's and T-Loc) and 255's on V6 halfshafts, so I was pretty much waiting for it to happen.

Needless to say, I was on the cell phone right away to call my dad for the trailer.


Now this car has the SC 5-speed halfshafts, with no problems since.




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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-19-2003, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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you did that with a V6?! I got me A 4.6L 5-Speed, and I launch it on the street pretty hard and bang the gears...and I have to FRPP centersection as well....hope mine doesnt snap. Chris

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TEA Stage2 PI Heads, 9.5:1 manley slugs/manley H-beams, cobra crank, VTStage3 blower cams, Trick Flow track heat intake, FMIC TR1245 intercooler, ART Dual 2.5" exhaust/Stainless/no cats, KOOKS coated headers, 4.10 w/ Auburn Pro, aluminum 8.8 housing, Dynotech driveshaft, Koni's, Eibach Springs, Baer 13" big brake kit. cobra rear brake/hub conversion, VMP Slot Blowthru setup, #60 Inj. 75mm TB,
615 rwhp/500 torque 15.5psi best of [email protected] still needs tuning.
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-19-2003, 02:13 PM
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What do you think went first, the half shaft which then broke the center section, or the center section which then broke the half shaft?

I'm thinking the center section went first, but what are your thoughts?

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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-19-2003, 02:21 PM
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Did this have poly bushings from mn12perf? I wonder if it had stock rubber mounts that were letting too much flex happen around the diff...

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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-19-2003, 02:37 PM
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I'm pretty sure that the cause was that the stock rubber diff bushings allowed the centersection to twist, breaking the diff cover and then the halfshaft. The bushings were not worn out, but they were the stock rubber style. I forgot to mention that the car also has the poly diff bushings now.

And yes, that was with a splitport 3.8L from a 2000 mustang, only making 165 rwhp.


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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-08-2004, 03:22 AM
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Sooo, hows the old bolt-thru-the-mount holding up to your 5spd? I'm considering doing it myself.
-Rob

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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-08-2004, 08:49 AM
 
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Quote:
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Sooo, hows the old bolt-thru-the-mount holding up to your 5spd? I'm considering doing it myself.
-Rob
Mines holding up just fine, 2 years and counting.
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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-08-2004, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Looks like my bolt is working good. Chris

4R70W From DirtyDog
VORTECH BLOWN w/3.12" Reichard ultra-grip pulley
TEA Stage2 PI Heads, 9.5:1 manley slugs/manley H-beams, cobra crank, VTStage3 blower cams, Trick Flow track heat intake, FMIC TR1245 intercooler, ART Dual 2.5" exhaust/Stainless/no cats, KOOKS coated headers, 4.10 w/ Auburn Pro, aluminum 8.8 housing, Dynotech driveshaft, Koni's, Eibach Springs, Baer 13" big brake kit. cobra rear brake/hub conversion, VMP Slot Blowthru setup, #60 Inj. 75mm TB,
615 rwhp/500 torque 15.5psi best of [email protected] still needs tuning.
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-08-2004, 10:15 AM
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Awesome. Thanks man
-Rob

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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2004, 11:30 PM
 
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i have a little different problem . I just replaced my mark VIII AODE trans and now it feels like it is locking up at low speeds between 30-45 . it only does it under low acceleration or when your trying to maintain speed.Any idea's ?
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2004, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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COnverter issues...? Why did you replace your tranmission? And did you get a new converter or use the old converter that came from the original blown-up tranmission? Always replace your converter when you replace a failed transmission. Chris

4R70W From DirtyDog
VORTECH BLOWN w/3.12" Reichard ultra-grip pulley
TEA Stage2 PI Heads, 9.5:1 manley slugs/manley H-beams, cobra crank, VTStage3 blower cams, Trick Flow track heat intake, FMIC TR1245 intercooler, ART Dual 2.5" exhaust/Stainless/no cats, KOOKS coated headers, 4.10 w/ Auburn Pro, aluminum 8.8 housing, Dynotech driveshaft, Koni's, Eibach Springs, Baer 13" big brake kit. cobra rear brake/hub conversion, VMP Slot Blowthru setup, #60 Inj. 75mm TB,
615 rwhp/500 torque 15.5psi best of [email protected] still needs tuning.
CarDomain http://www.cardomain.com/ride/426794
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2004, 11:37 PM
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Hmmmm....I was thinking aobut going to u-pull it and snagging one to send of to have polyurethane put in, but maybe I'll try this instead?

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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2004, 11:42 PM
 
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the old trans started slipping bad so i decided to replace it before it went . this is the second reman trans and new converter that I have installed in the past two weeks . I thought the first was bad so i sent it back and got another and still the same thing.
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2004, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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try taking it to a stealership and getting the PCM checked out, and reflashed if need be. But most importantly....go get your line pressure checked.

4R70W From DirtyDog
VORTECH BLOWN w/3.12" Reichard ultra-grip pulley
TEA Stage2 PI Heads, 9.5:1 manley slugs/manley H-beams, cobra crank, VTStage3 blower cams, Trick Flow track heat intake, FMIC TR1245 intercooler, ART Dual 2.5" exhaust/Stainless/no cats, KOOKS coated headers, 4.10 w/ Auburn Pro, aluminum 8.8 housing, Dynotech driveshaft, Koni's, Eibach Springs, Baer 13" big brake kit. cobra rear brake/hub conversion, VMP Slot Blowthru setup, #60 Inj. 75mm TB,
615 rwhp/500 torque 15.5psi best of [email protected] still needs tuning.
CarDomain http://www.cardomain.com/ride/426794
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2004, 11:45 PM
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Maybe I'll try this when I put my FRPP centersection in tomorrow...

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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2004, 11:47 PM
 
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what should the pressure be it is running about 290
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2004, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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dont know the specs, but it varies depending on each gear and neutral. A tranmission shop (reputable) will know. Chris

4R70W From DirtyDog
VORTECH BLOWN w/3.12" Reichard ultra-grip pulley
TEA Stage2 PI Heads, 9.5:1 manley slugs/manley H-beams, cobra crank, VTStage3 blower cams, Trick Flow track heat intake, FMIC TR1245 intercooler, ART Dual 2.5" exhaust/Stainless/no cats, KOOKS coated headers, 4.10 w/ Auburn Pro, aluminum 8.8 housing, Dynotech driveshaft, Koni's, Eibach Springs, Baer 13" big brake kit. cobra rear brake/hub conversion, VMP Slot Blowthru setup, #60 Inj. 75mm TB,
615 rwhp/500 torque 15.5psi best of [email protected] still needs tuning.
CarDomain http://www.cardomain.com/ride/426794
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-22-2004, 05:54 AM
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FYI, all Mark VIII's came with 4R70W's, even the 93's.

96 Mustang GT 5spd. w/ 248A Option (GTS). Stock for now until I get the Roush on.

97 Thunderbird 4.6L LX /w Sport Package
24k B&M Cooler, 1" lowered, Steeda UD Pulleys, Dynomax cat-back, J-mod, 3.73's, PI intake, PI cams, 03 GT MAF/Tube, SCT tuned - Gone but not forgotten.
MAMN12 Drag Racing Team [email protected] In need of updated times.
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 09:28 PM
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Bump.
Gotta question about this fix.
After looking closely at Chris's fuzzy picture ( ) and then crawling under my car to look at it, I still don't get how sticking a bolt thru the mount like that works?
How does it keep the clunk out?
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Well the rubber tears out. So now the inner half of the mount that bolts to the diff cover flops up and down inside the outer half of the mount.

The clunk is the inner part beating on the frame on the top, and the mount on the bottom. Chris

4R70W From DirtyDog
VORTECH BLOWN w/3.12" Reichard ultra-grip pulley
TEA Stage2 PI Heads, 9.5:1 manley slugs/manley H-beams, cobra crank, VTStage3 blower cams, Trick Flow track heat intake, FMIC TR1245 intercooler, ART Dual 2.5" exhaust/Stainless/no cats, KOOKS coated headers, 4.10 w/ Auburn Pro, aluminum 8.8 housing, Dynotech driveshaft, Koni's, Eibach Springs, Baer 13" big brake kit. cobra rear brake/hub conversion, VMP Slot Blowthru setup, #60 Inj. 75mm TB,
615 rwhp/500 torque 15.5psi best of [email protected] still needs tuning.
CarDomain http://www.cardomain.com/ride/426794
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 06-07-2004, 11:00 PM
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Ah. I see know.
Thanks for the glasses...
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