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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2003, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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Clutch Pack doesn't want to come out

*edit* Don't be a bonehead like me and remember to take out the OD servo before trying to remove the clutch packs....

Last edited by chadg; 10-04-2003 at 04:14 PM.
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2003, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by chadg
*edit* Don't be a bonehead like me and remember to take out the OD servo before trying to remove the clutch packs....

You did pull out the OSS and the VS already eh?-if not you'll wanna do that too.
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2003, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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Yeah, I remembered the OSS after I boneheaded and freaked myself out. Didn't remove the VSS, but I didn't have the output shaft out, I just threw in some more clutches to handle my power...

Leme tell you having a pump bolt hole strip out is a way to erk you like no other. Pump wasnt seated in all the way so there wern't enough threads to hold the whopping 15 ft/lbs. No matter, I took care of it.

Doing this alone without the right tools would suck a bunch. Lining up these darn gears is bad enough.

On to the valve body!
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-04-2003, 09:06 PM
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Chad,

Are you going to run the line to lube the tailshaft bushing? Easy to do and worth it. Remember you'll need to take that rear truck seal off and get a car seal.

-J

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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2003, 12:07 AM
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If you guys haven't seen the 4R70W rebuild videos at MN12Performance.com, you might want to check them out. This cool auto technician guy talks you through most of the steps in disassembly and assembly, and tells you some things to watch out for along the way. I learned a lot from it. It'd be nice if he told you a little more about inspection, etc., but hey, I can't complain.

-------------------

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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2003, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
 
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I watched them, and don't remember him saying "and now everything here needs to line up perfect, but it'll take you 30 minutes to do it" haha. I'm sure it gets eaisier with time though. Correct tools sure would be great too. Those accumulator and server springs can be stiff. :P

J- I wasn't planning on it because of my gears, but you're right. It's something I should do. I'll have to track down a tailshaft bushing and a tap & die set monday. I've already got the car seal. Thanks for the heads up on that.
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2003, 09:43 AM
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Chad...
bushing here-$1.56 each:
http://www.bulkpart.com/cgi-bin/miva...ory_Code=AODbu
Hope you already got the spiral snap ring too:
http://www.bulkpart.com/cgi-bin/miva...ory_Code=AODhp
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2003, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks JL. The snap-ring is for the reverse drum? Does the one there have to be replaced?

Are any of you familiar with Slot #1? The thesis says the slot in the gasket should be used to put a .100" hole in the plate. At least that's what I gather from it. Has anyone done that? (only needed with 300HP and up)
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2003, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by chadg
Thanks JL. The snap-ring is for the reverse drum? Does the one there have to be replaced?

Are any of you familiar with Slot #1? The thesis says the slot in the gasket should be used to put a .100" hole in the plate. At least that's what I gather from it. Has anyone done that? (only needed with 300HP and up)
Yes that's on the front of the reverse drum-it retains the mech diode to the drum.
Hole #6 is to be opened to a slot in the plate using the gasket as a template...and slot #1 is just a slot in the gasket..do not drill a hole in the plate there.What stall speed is that convertor again?
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2003, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
 
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It's a 3000 stall. I'm thinking about sending it in to have the stall upped since it's "free".

So do I need to add that snap-ring? Because everything I had out I put back in...

So do you know where they were talking about the .100" hole being drilled at slot 1 in the thesis? (Page 14, it says open slot to specified size. So just open the gasket up?)

Thanks for the help, it's much appreciated.
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2003, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by chadg
It's a 3000 stall. I'm thinking about sending it in to have the stall upped since it's "free".

So do I need to add that snap-ring? Because everything I had out I put back in...

So do you know where they were talking about the .100" hole being drilled at slot 1 in the thesis? (Page 14, it says open slot to specified size. So just open the gasket up?)

Thanks for the help, it's much appreciated.
Just the gasket...not the plate make a .100" wide slot in the gakset..I'd up the stall speed a little bit if I were you,and drill the holes in the plate to the 450-600 sizes.And deifinitely add that snap ring..the pump has to come back off-it's just inside the case after the pump comes out.
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2003, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
 
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Yup, i've got them drilled to 450-600... Thanks for the clarification!

So do the trannys not come with that snap ring stock or something? Why wouldn't it be there in a 2001 tranny?

I won't let this stop me. I'll have it done by next weekend gosh-darnit!
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2003, 11:19 AM
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The spiral ring will not remove itself at higher rpm due to it's design and the retainer that it is fitted into, the stock ring will fail at high rpm because the centrifugal force will cause it to come off.

-J

1991 Sport 5.0
4R70W Converted, U4P0/SCT Controlled
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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2003, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
 
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Ack. I guess that's a good damn reason. Time to come off again Mr. Pump.

That explains it! Thanks guys!

Bonehead Note: My tranny didn't come with the VSS installed, so I didin't have to remove it. -1 Bonehead point for me.

How smooth does the Sep Plate have to be? I took some crocus cloth to the bottom size and got the very rough parts from drilling off, but the cloth obviously scored the plate. (Its not super coarse, probably 800ish?)
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2003, 02:00 PM
 
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Just be carefull when you torque that pump down again.
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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-05-2003, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by chadg
Ack. I guess that's a good damn reason. Time to come off again Mr. Pump.

That explains it! Thanks guys!

Bonehead Note: My tranny didn't come with the VSS installed, so I didin't have to remove it. -1 Bonehead point for me.

How smooth does the Sep Plate have to be? I took some crocus cloth to the bottom size and got the very rough parts from drilling off, but the cloth obviously scored the plate. (Its not super coarse, probably 800ish?)
If you're in doubt...use a bit of scotch-brite to "polish" it up a bit.
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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-07-2003, 11:12 AM
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How did you strip out the pump bolt holes? How did you take care of it? I did something similar on mine lately...stripped 3 or 4 of them i think. I just got them in as best I could and JB welded the heads to the pump so they wouldnt turn. Thanks man
-Rob

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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-07-2003, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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One of them stripped because the pump wasn't fully seated yet, so the bolt wasn't very far in the hole at all. Less threads to spread torque + aluminum = strip.

None of the other holes stripped, so once I had the pump in all the way, the remainder of the threads took up the torque perfectly.

The real way to fix this problem would be to install a heli-coil.
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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-08-2003, 04:25 PM
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Do you think that having 3-4 of the bolts unable to be fully torqued would cause a performance problem? Thanks
-Rob

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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-08-2003, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
 
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Not a performance problem, but I could easily see it leaking in the future. I wouldn't leave it like that.
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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-09-2003, 01:49 AM Thread Starter
 
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Ok. Pump is off, I'm staring at something. I believe it's the intermediate/reverse clutch assy. (First thing you see after the pump comes off. Not the big direct clutches on the outside.)

This clutch has the exact-identical snap ring on it. But there's no retainer there.

I'm very lost and confused... I'm guessing it's something simple I'm just not understanding after being awake for 16 hours...

I think it'd be easier to just not rev it high...

*edit* Here hopefully this will help. I've got the direct clutches out. I'm staring at what I think is the mech. one-way diode, seeing at it only goes one way... The retainer ring I got has those two tabs which prevent it from going onto that shaft, otherwise it would be a perfect fit. And then there's the snap ring, it came off from right in front of the one way diode, which matches p with what JL said... I just don't see how the retaining ring fits. And why the tranny didn't have one in the first place. (Or maybe that is the upgrade?)

I'm gonna catch some z's. Thanks for any & all help guys, It's much appreciated. (As always!)


Last edited by chadg; 10-09-2003 at 02:09 AM.
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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-09-2003, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by chadg
[B]Ok. Pump is off, I'm staring at something. I believe it's the intermediate/reverse clutch assy. (First thing you see after the pump comes off. Not the big direct clutches on the outside.)

This clutch has the exact-identical snap ring on it. But there's no retainer there.

I'm very lost and confused... I'm guessing it's something simple I'm just not understanding after being awake for 16 hours...

I think it'd be easier to just not rev it high...

*edit* Here hopefully this will help. I've got the direct clutches out. I'm staring at what I think is the mech. one-way diode, seeing at it only goes one way... The retainer ring I got has those two tabs which prevent it from going onto that shaft, otherwise it would be a perfect fit. And then there's the snap ring, it came off from right in front of the one way diode, which matches p with what JL said... I just don't see how the retaining ring fits. And why the tranny didn't have one in the first place. (Or maybe that is the upgrade?)

I'm gonna catch some z's. Thanks for any & all help guys, It's much appreciated. (As always!)
Is that ring at the bottom on the bellhousing the one that they sent you?
That's the wrong one...it's supposed to be a spirolock style ring,and a hardened retainer that fits in place of the OE snap ring...
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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-09-2003, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
 
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Yup, that's what they sent me.... Grrr...

Is this upgraded part available from Ford? That's my last chance to have it done for this weekend.

I hate Makco. So how/where does that retainer even fit in? I don't see how it would be assembled even with the new snap-ring. (Maybe I have to see it to understand it?)

How high can it rev before the stock snap-ring becomes a possible issue?

Last edited by chadg; 10-09-2003 at 10:20 AM.
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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-09-2003, 11:11 AM
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To my knowledge you cannot get the Spiral-lock from Ford, it's an aftermarket part. Which part did you order? Here is the part you needed.

http://www.bulkpart.com/cgi-bin/miva...ory_Code=AODhp

-J

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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-09-2003, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
 
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Ahhh crap, I got the one up higher that JL posted. That would explain it. No biggie, now I've got spare parts.

Well, guess it's time to suck-in the next day charges.

Thanks guys, I'll keep you all posted. There is such a good feeling to doing this myself. It's really like the "holy grail" of working on a car. The entire motor is cake compared to this thing, haha.

Does anyone have any tips for swapping trannys on the floor w/ Jackstands? It looks like that's going to be my plan of action for Saturday.
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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-09-2003, 11:36 AM
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Have an extra set of hands if possible, makes it easier to balance the transmission and manuever it that way. Also, have jackstands that will put the car high up in the air and a flat piece of plywood or MDF and a flat transmission pan to lift it up in there. I used a flat pan I had laying around otherwise the hump would have made it harder to balance, just don't forget to pull the pan back down and put the right filter and right pan on. And just incase I didn't already tell you, you will need to cut those "ears" off the bellhousing of the transmission or they will get in the way of the O2 sensors when you go to replace them later.

-J

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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-09-2003, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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Cool. I just filled the gas tank. I'll just siphon it out...

Cutting those ears off sounds easy enough for me. It's the precision-work that kills me!

So the order of disassembly is exhaust, gastank, driveshaft, starter, then tranny. Correct? I don't think I missed anything.

Thanks for the help J and JL, you guys rock. Free rides for you both whenever I'm down in OK and TX respectively.
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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-09-2003, 03:57 PM
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Hmmm..that's odd.When I copied the link for that part..I was looking at the spiral ring kit...
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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-09-2003, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by chadg
Cool. I just filled the gas tank. I'll just siphon it out...

Cutting those ears off sounds easy enough for me. It's the precision-work that kills me!

So the order of disassembly is exhaust, gastank, driveshaft, starter, then tranny. Correct? I don't think I missed anything.

Thanks for the help J and JL, you guys rock. Free rides for you both whenever I'm down in OK and TX respectively.
The simple method:

1. Have the car up on all four corners, you want all four wheels off the ground.
2. Place a floor jack up under the rear differential, undo all four of the bolts on the differential and then slowly let it down to rest on the axles which then rest on the lower control arms, the pumpkin will then swing with the driveshaft flange pointing downward.
3. Slide the driveshaft back, now you do not have to remove the tank.
4. Disconnect wiring / shifter cable.
5. Remove bellhousing bolts.
6. Use floor jack with plywood/MDF or transmission jack to put under the transmission.
7. Unbolt the rear mount/crossmember and remove.
8. Slide transmission back and down.

Installation opposite of removal.

Just hacking them off flush works fine, unfortunately I had to cut mine off after the transmission was already installed as I didn't know they were going to be a problem.

Hope this helps out.

-J

1991 Sport 5.0
4R70W Converted, U4P0/SCT Controlled
[email protected], 1.948 60' - 3450 lbs
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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 10-10-2003, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
 
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Awesome, that makes sense J, thanks! I'm guessing you left out the "disconnect drive shaft from pumpkin" part.

I read somewhere on here that the 5.4 output shafts have 21 splines, so I need a different VSS gear. Is this correct? Hopefully a truck somewhere came with 3.73's.

JL, I got the spiral ring today. Now it makes sense. It even comes in a 3-Pack so I've got spares! Thanks for the heads up there.

Now to get home from work and get to work on the beast. Here's a shot of my forced lube setup to entertain you all. I suck at tube-bending.

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