Breaking In a Rear End - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2004, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Breaking In a Rear End

I bought one of JustinH's rear ends and I'm wondering if I should give it any break-in time before I go flog it at the track?

1994 SC 5-Speed
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2253560
1996 4.6L R.I.P December 02, 2004
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/560841
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2004, 10:59 PM
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I recommend a couple twenty minute freeway drives with ample cool down time in between if possible to seat and lube bearings and such, then if no strange whines or gear noise---I say its party time..............Dan

Last edited by Old_coot; 01-12-2004 at 09:19 AM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2004, 10:59 PM
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Run it for a good half hour, let it cool

Wrecked...will be parting out soon 97 thunderbird 02GT 4.6 Bullitt Intake
Kook's true dual 02 4r70w trans completely rebuilt to jerrys specs
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2004, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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Also.. how much gear oil do I need to put in this thing? It's being shipped dry from what I understand.

Also.. Royal Purple says their gear oil already has friction modifiers in it. Should I still go get some friction modifier that meets ford's standards or will what is in the ROyal Purple be okay?

1994 SC 5-Speed
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2253560
1996 4.6L R.I.P December 02, 2004
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/560841
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2004, 11:38 PM
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I dont know about yours, but mine was shipped with gear lube in it already.

Its a good idea to drain it and replace it with some Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube, and a bottle of friction modifier from ford. The friction modifier is nessesary if you are changing the fluid. You can get the friction modifier from a ford dealership cheap, it doesnt have to be the FRPP stuff.

3.25 pints or 1.5 literes of gear oil
F3TZ-19B546-MA is the part number for the friction modifier.

note: mobil 1 is just my personal preference, use any quality synthetic gear oil you want. I also got the pumpkin from Justin.

Dont forget to change the bushings when you install.

As for break-in, heat it up by doing some easy driving, then let it cool down for a few hours.

-Andrey

96 LX 4.6L
13.215 @ 103.09
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-12-2004, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know if the chain parts depots carry poly bushings? I remember hearing that moog made bushings for our cars. Anybody know if this holds true for the differential?

1994 SC 5-Speed
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2253560
1996 4.6L R.I.P December 02, 2004
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/560841
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-12-2004, 09:17 AM
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I don't know for sure about the rear bushings but I've done the fronts on my bird and they were from Moog bought from NAPA and they were polyurethane. The Royal Purple lube is fine by itself. All the friction modifier is is an anti-foaming agent to insure good lubrication for the friction surfaces. You fill the rear until it runs out the fill hole...............Dan
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-12-2004, 09:37 AM
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I got an FRPP rear end from Justin too, its going in this weekend. I wasnt going to drain the fluid since its already filled, but now I feel like I should. Is the Mobil 1 that much better than what ford puts in? Anyone that just left what Ford put in ever have problems with their FRPP pumpkin?

Sold = 96 Thunderbird
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-12-2004, 11:56 AM
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From the tech articles: Brake-in procedure for New Gears

Maybe not everybody know this but after the gear swap job you need to pre-heat the gears just like the new rotors. Here is how to do that:


First time you drive the car, only drive it about 15 minutes or so; DON'T accelerate hard or drive exremely fast
Stop the car and let the gears cool off for about 2-3 hours.
Then Drive again for about 30 minutes or so, no hard acceleration or fast driving speeds, and let the gears cool off again. Then the last time drive the car about 45 minutes or so, no hard acceleration or fast driving, you get the picture, then for the last time let the gears cool. After that give the gears HELL. If you don't do this break your gears may decide to whine.

For everyone else who plans on this mod it doesn't hurt to do it! if you can be calm enough to keep your foot out of the floorboard trying to test your new mod




Matt "Looks Like Egon" Davis
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-12-2004, 12:53 PM
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Hey Aaron I have the same gear oil its fine. I'm replacing it now and going w/ Redline. Just a little OCD problem I'm getting better.

Wrecked...will be parting out soon 97 thunderbird 02GT 4.6 Bullitt Intake
Kook's true dual 02 4r70w trans completely rebuilt to jerrys specs
cstm D/S 373's 11/4 bars F&R 3800lbs
240rwhp/282tq ET:14.00
"Luck happens when opportunity meets preparation"

Last edited by FLABIRD; 01-12-2004 at 01:05 PM.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-12-2004, 01:16 PM
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the pumpkins are filled with fluid from the factory.

I like to drain it and replace with mobil1 and friction modifier, or royal purple and no friction modifer (already inside)

JH
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-12-2004, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by JustinH
the pumpkins are filled with fluid from the factory.

I like to drain it and replace with mobil1 and friction modifier, or royal purple and no friction modifer (already inside)

JH
What did you happen to ship this last batch with?

1994 SC 5-Speed
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2253560
1996 4.6L R.I.P December 02, 2004
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/560841
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-12-2004, 02:24 PM
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they come from the factory with fluid, probably motorcraft fluid.

I don't fill them with anything, I was just saying if I bought one for myself, that it what I would do.
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