J-Mod/Valve Body Ques - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-11-2004, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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J-Mod/Valve Body Ques

When I do my '02 Engine Swap, I am going to drain the Trans/TC and pull the engine and transmission as a unit and do the J-Mod on it. The transmission is a '99 Mustang GT 4R70W. I am going to leave the springs and just drill the plate to the lower setting, since I have heard after getting a chip, the lowest setting 1-2 shift at WOT is break-neck with the spring removed (I plan on getting a chip evantually). The question is, with the '99 GT transmission, do I need to update any accumulators or the OD Servo?

I've heard that the valve body bolts should be re-torqued after like two weeks. Would it do any damage to let it go 15,000 (My change interval/probably about 6 months) before re-torquing them, so as to not waste the new fluid, or will it just result in sloppy (factory) shifts?

I currently use Quaker State Synthetic Blend Mercon V. Are there any full synthetics that are Mercon V spec? I know There is a Mobil 1 ATF, but I don't think it's Mercon V spec...

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-12-2004, 01:18 AM
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mine already about 4 months now with about 5 to 6k after j-mod and i still ahven't taken out to retorque yet. what i do is when i torque the valve body down i repeat the torquing process 3 times.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-12-2004, 07:43 AM
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I totally agree with chuacw, torque the bolts 3 times and you shouldnt have to worry. The proper sequence is pictured in my article in the WIP forum. I've always done this, and never had a problem with it.

BTW the 99 will have the better accumulators

96 Mustang GT 5spd. w/ 248A Option (GTS). Stock for now until I get the Roush on.

97 Thunderbird 4.6L LX /w Sport Package
24k B&M Cooler, 1" lowered, Steeda UD Pulleys, Dynomax cat-back, J-mod, 3.73's, PI intake, PI cams, 03 GT MAF/Tube, SCT tuned - Gone but not forgotten.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2004, 03:13 AM
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yup. i follow your instruction the the article and you are right, the second time some of the bolt still moving in my torque wrench and the third time nothing moves. thats why i didn't even bother to retorque until the next mercon v bath.

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My Bird is the nicest looking in Midland, Michigan

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-15-2004, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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I was just looking over the specs for the J-Mod, and am wondering what year spec I should use since I have a '99 transmission. There is only 94-97 listed...

'95 Cougar - 2002 Explorer engine, 2004 Mustang PTP2 PCM

Best times:
PI 4.6L 95 XR7 Cougar: [email protected]
2004.5 Silverado Crew Cab/Long Bed/4x4 6.6L Duramax: [email protected] (Weighing in at over 7200#) on 10/19/2007
Dyno - 446.4RWHP/820.2RWTq on 6/13/2008
Pulling - 300.9' 3rd place finish 8/2011
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-15-2004, 09:18 PM
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Go through chapters 13 and 14 of the OD 101 article, its all listed there.

96 Mustang GT 5spd. w/ 248A Option (GTS). Stock for now until I get the Roush on.

97 Thunderbird 4.6L LX /w Sport Package
24k B&M Cooler, 1" lowered, Steeda UD Pulleys, Dynomax cat-back, J-mod, 3.73's, PI intake, PI cams, 03 GT MAF/Tube, SCT tuned - Gone but not forgotten.
MAMN12 Drag Racing Team [email protected] In need of updated times.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-17-2004, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Ok... Been looking through the article, and it brings up more questions...

Power Level: Should I stick to the <300 HP level, or go the next step up? I want good strong shifts, but don't want to blow apart the IRS or anything else... I'm leaving the 1-2 spring in, since I've heard that the removing the spring and getting a chip results in VERY hard shifts.

Reverse Engagement: Should I open the hole to the 450HP setting (.100)? I want quick reverse engagement (Jerry says that the setting isn't really HP dependant)

In the 2-3/3-2 shift: for the mild setting, it says .125"/.160" for hole #6. For the 300-450, it says .125"/slot. What does the .125/.160 mean? Does it mean a .160 long .125 wide slot (if you have the Mehanical Diode clutch)?

3-4/4-3: Slot #1. Where is slot #1? There is nothing marked as such.

Since I have the '99 transmission, I don't need to do anything but brill the plate since I already have the updated accumulators, correct?

Thanks for your help and input.

'95 Cougar - 2002 Explorer engine, 2004 Mustang PTP2 PCM

Best times:
PI 4.6L 95 XR7 Cougar: [email protected]
2004.5 Silverado Crew Cab/Long Bed/4x4 6.6L Duramax: [email protected] (Weighing in at over 7200#) on 10/19/2007
Dyno - 446.4RWHP/820.2RWTq on 6/13/2008
Pulling - 300.9' 3rd place finish 8/2011
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-17-2004, 10:43 PM
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Power level is a personal preference. I run no lower 1-2 spring, and if I was buying a chip I'd just request the line pressure not be bumped up on the 1-2 shift. leaving the lower spring in and bumping up the pressure goes about doing the same thing in a different way. The drilled holes affect the shifting a lot more than the springs. I'd rather run no spring and smaller plate holes for this reason: If I change my mind, I can always put the spring back in. If you drill the plate larger, and you already have the spring in, then you'd kind of be stuck. You could remove the top spring I suppose (some came that way OEM), but you see what I'm getting at. If you're worried about it, be conservative. You can always make the holes bigger later on.

Just do the lower Rev. spec, this isnt really critical anyway. You could also do something inbetween the two levels. I never had a big issue with the R engagements.

For the #6, I'd do a .160" hole. He made 2 specs because the old roller clutches cant take the abuse the Mech Diode can. If you ever get to see the 2 together, you wont believe ford ever used such a wimpy thing. If you were to make it a slot, you'd use the gasket as a reference.

Slot 1 is marked on page 14. I've never found it necessary on an NA car though. I was quite happy leaving it alone, so I've never gone back in to try it.

I'd leave the accumulators alone, but lose the 2-3 spring. I've got a stack of them dern things here and can't figure out what to do with them... along with a few old 1-2 accumulator springs.l Anyone have any ideas for them? lol

96 Mustang GT 5spd. w/ 248A Option (GTS). Stock for now until I get the Roush on.

97 Thunderbird 4.6L LX /w Sport Package
24k B&M Cooler, 1" lowered, Steeda UD Pulleys, Dynomax cat-back, J-mod, 3.73's, PI intake, PI cams, 03 GT MAF/Tube, SCT tuned - Gone but not forgotten.
MAMN12 Drag Racing Team [email protected] In need of updated times.
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