Power level is a personal preference. I run no lower 1-2 spring, and if I was buying a chip I'd just request the line pressure not be bumped up on the 1-2 shift. leaving the lower spring in and bumping up the pressure goes about doing the same thing in a different way. The drilled holes affect the shifting a lot more than the springs. I'd rather run no spring and smaller plate holes for this reason: If I change my mind, I can always put the spring back in. If you drill the plate larger, and you already have the spring in, then you'd kind of be stuck. You could remove the top spring I suppose (some came that way OEM), but you see what I'm getting at. If you're worried about it, be conservative. You can always make the holes bigger later on.
Just do the lower Rev. spec, this isnt really critical anyway. You could also do something inbetween the two levels. I never had a big issue with the R engagements.
For the #6, I'd do a .160" hole. He made 2 specs because the old roller clutches cant take the abuse the Mech Diode can. If you ever get to see the 2 together, you wont believe ford ever used such a wimpy thing. If you were to make it a slot, you'd use the gasket as a reference.
Slot 1 is marked on page 14. I've never found it necessary on an NA car though. I was quite happy leaving it alone, so I've never gone back in to try it.
I'd leave the accumulators alone, but lose the 2-3 spring. I've got a stack of them dern things here and can't figure out what to do with them... along with a few old 1-2 accumulator springs.l Anyone have any ideas for them? lol
96 Mustang GT 5spd. w/ 248A Option (GTS). Stock for now until I get the Roush on.
97 Thunderbird 4.6L LX /w Sport Package
24k B&M Cooler, 1" lowered, Steeda UD Pulleys, Dynomax cat-back, J-mod, 3.73's, PI intake, PI cams, 03 GT MAF/Tube, SCT tuned - Gone but not forgotten.
MAMN12 Drag Racing Team [email protected]
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