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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
 
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Jmod

Just curious when i do the jmod do i need to replace the 1-2 acc 1-2 spring and the 2-3 acc?? And thats it??
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 12:33 PM
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No, that's not it.

You should also drill out the appropriate holes in the separator plate.

This, plus what you posted is what I would consider the minimum for a J-Mod.

Upgrading the servos, and the main valve body are also options to consider.


And, seeing as you have a 94,

You should upgrade to the deep sump pan/filter, from a 1996 or newer, while you are at it. The 94/95 pans can cause fluid starvation under certain conditions.

Mercon V fluid goes without saying, so I won't. You are already using it.

Steve - TCCoA member
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks ya i was just asking if i needed to update those things obviously i was gonna drill the holes but thanks for saying it , ya i was gonna get a new pan to i just gotta see how much all this costs. Thanks for respoding rolling thunder
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 12:46 PM
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The 96/97 pan and filter should cost around $35-$40 total.

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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ok cool. Hey does that one have the drain plug in it?? and also do you have or know anyone that has a better picture of were you have to drill the holes and the new sizes?? I'm just curious because i dont wanna screw it up
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 01:01 PM
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The 98 pan has the drain plug, and the cost jumps to $75 for the pan.

You can buy a do-it-yourself plug kit for $5 at AutoZone.

The Transmission section of the Tech Articles has pictures of the separator plate, and where to drill the holes.

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ya i know the tech articles has a pic but i was wondering if anyone had a better pic of it sitting up or if some one designed a pic on the computer. Its kinda hard to see the top of it in the pic and i really dont wanna screw up. Oh ya is i cant seem to find the part number of the new 1-2 spring i found everything else 1-2 acc $14.07, 2-3 acc $7.27 98 pan $72.50
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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Nevermind i found it i'm a dumb** F7AZ-7F284-BA
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 01:33 PM
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Give Dan Newman at Joe Cooper Ford a call. He has all the part numbers needed on file. Plus, his price is hard to beat.


F8UZ-7A194-AA - Tranny pan with drain plug.
F6AZ-7A098-A - Filter assembly that goes with deep sump tranny pan
F7AZ-7F251-AA - 1-2 revised accumulator piston.
F75Z-7F284-AA - Light blue spring for top of 1-2 accumulator.
F7AZ-7F284-BA - Bottom spring for 1-2 accumulator (optional - leave spring out for firmer 1-2 shift).
F7AZ-7H292-AB - 2-3 revised accumulator piston

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-20-2004, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hey i was curious i was looking at the pic of the transmission parts. I was wondering i see there is one spring on the 1-2 accum piston but weres the other one?? I hope this isnt a dumb question but i'm staring at the picture here but i only see one, and also i'm planning on putting that bottom spring in i dont want the shifts to harsh but will it still make a difference if i put it in?? the pic i'm looking at is
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...iles/accum.jpg
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-26-2004, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hey guys i just got my parts today i'm gonna do the mod in like 2 weeks. I was curious do you really have to drain the torue converter to do the mod?? I already have merc v in already, i dont wanna drain it if i dont have to and i was also wondering i got the light blue updated spring for the top, i'm just curious does it fit inside the 1-2 acc piston or is it going to be on the outside?? and the last thing i wanted to ask is i'm gonna put a hayden tran cooler on should i use the bottom radiator line to go into the tranny cooler then out to the bottom fitting on the radiator?? meaning cut the line bottom line before it goes to the radiator.
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-26-2004, 07:22 PM
 
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It's not totally necessary, just recommended, to drain the converter. I did one this weekend that I didn't drain the converter, because within the next month, the converter is getting replaced. Yes, the spring goes inside the accumulator, and yes, use the lower tranny cooler line. Most coolers come with an adapter so you don't have to cut the tranny line, screw the adapter into the radiator, and push the hose over the flared end on the line without cutting it.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-26-2004, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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ok cool thanks rich
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-26-2004, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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hey i got one more question do any of your recomend a certain store to buy the bits and when you buy them do they have the drill bit # on them and for the .238 hole size what is that in a drill bit size?? sorry if i sound dumb i just dont wanna get this wrong

Last edited by Mattscoug94; 01-26-2004 at 11:28 PM.
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-27-2004, 09:41 AM
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How long for Jmod you guys. I printed off a set of instructions but will proabbaly print the other of the tech pages for refrence. I am not a mechanic at all but know enough. I got friends who are a lift. how long do you think this would take if I had the right springs, gaskets and the drill bits to get the right holes drilled. This woudl be the time for a tranny coller as well correct?
Regg

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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-27-2004, 09:51 AM
 
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On a lift, it took me about 2 hours to do my first one, but now I can knock it out in about an hour, most of the time actually is spent cleaning.

And I found all the drillbits at Atwoods.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-27-2004, 01:19 PM
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reckmann, I too "am not a mechanic at all but know enough". This summer it took me an entire day to do the J-mod and tranny cooler, but I took my sweet time and made sure everything was done right.

I also spent quite a bit of time getting the stuborn tranny line undone from the radiator.

I've heard the mod takes anywhere from 1 hour to 8 hours. My advice is to know the articles like the back of your hand before you actually start.

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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-27-2004, 02:08 PM
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Good avice, I plan to crawl underneath while my lowering springs go in and takea look at iot. My friend is a mechanic and he knows enough i think two heads put together we could do her no problem. thansk for the help guys I will try to read th eother article in depth too.
Regg

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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-27-2004, 02:24 PM
 
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You can read it all day, and it still seems complicated, until you take that Mercon bath, and start turning wrenches, then after it's all over, you'll be like "Man, that was really easy". At least that's what I did

(unless you modify a truck valve body by the instructions, and have the wrong year gaskets, then you'll be wondering WTF for days) Don't ask me how I know!!!!!!!!!
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-29-2004, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hey guys i was curious i see it says to torque the bolts to 90 inch pounds can i convert that to 7.5 foot pounds with a foot pound torque wrench??
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-30-2004, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
 
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any responses guys?? i'm just curious because i dont know anyone with an inch pound torque wrench and i really dont wanna buy one
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-30-2004, 12:54 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mattscoug94
Hey guys i was curious i see it says to torque the bolts to 90 inch pounds can i convert that to 7.5 foot pounds with a foot pound torque wrench??

That will work in theory. The problem with that idea is that there aren't very many foot/pound torque wrenches that will work accurately at that low of a setting. That's why Ford specified inch/pounds and that's why they make inch/pound torque wrenches. You'd be better off trying to borrow one, or possibly call around to auto parts places or rental yards and see if you can rent one. I'm not really sure how accurate a rental torque wrench is, but it's probably better than the foot/pound wrench used at the bottom of its range.

Marcus
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-31-2004, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hey guys i was reading the tech article about the 2-3 accum piston and it says not to put the spring back in. Have any of you guys done that?? And it says there is tabs, i'm guessing that the only thing that holds the piston is am i right in saying this?? and is in the article modifying valve body they show #4 right under 9 and 11 and they have one just below and to the right circled the bottom one is the one there talking about right?? I made this up on paint is it correct?? Sorry for all the talking like i said before i dont wanna f***k this up
http://www.hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkP...2b4b59d4&size= this is the new plate so i just moved the #8 hole down to were it should be i know its gonna be a little left and up but its in the general right area

thanks
matt

Last edited by Mattscoug94; 02-01-2004 at 11:21 AM.
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-01-2004, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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anyone??
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-02-2004, 01:32 PM
 
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I basically followed the article.

Left out the lower 1-2 spring
Left out the 2-3 spring
Slightly bent the tabs on the 2-3 retaining clamp

After I got a chip I got tired of the hard 1-2 shifts as I do a lot of driving in traffic. I wound up installing a lower 1-2 spring after all and the shifts are much nicer (for me) now. Your mileage may vary.

The 2-3 accumulator sits in the bore and is loosely held in by the retaining clamp. But the valve body sitting on the other side of the retaining clamp is what keeps the retaining clamp from falling out, if I remember things correctly.

I'm a bit confused about the picture you linked to. You've got #4 in the right spot; I'm not sure why you moved #8. Here's a link to the picture from the thesis that shows the hole locations. Hope this helps. If not, ask again.

Marcus
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-02-2004, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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The reason i moved #8 is because in the article it says on the 94/95's the hole is in a different spot Just a tad lower. thats the general area it is i just moved that whole down for reference and put the drill bit sizes on, and i was curious how are the 2-3 shifts are they too hard?? if they are ill just put the spring back in i'm not really into hard hard shifts but something that might squack the tires

thanks
Matt
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-02-2004, 10:30 PM
 
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The 2-3 shift is great without the spring; not hard at all, just enough to feel it shift. The 1-2 shift wasn't too bad until I put in a chip. I've heard of several people besides myself going back and installing a 1-2 lower spring; I haven't heard of anyone installing the 2-3 spring. Good luck, and happy shifting!

Marcus
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-02-2004, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks marcus I appreciate your help

Mat
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