j/mod q's - TCCoA Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-28-2004, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 222
j/mod q's

well i am thinking of doing the j/mod on my 97 xr7. the car has 111,000 miles on it. would you recomend doing this? or should i try to find a new or rebuilt 4r70w first and swap it in( of course doign the j/mod before install)? i know i need the frpp rear LSD differential as well. Thinking on 4.10's to go in, or will 3.73's be enough? the j mod looks somewhat intimidating. is it hard to do? or does it just look worse than it is? and any recomendations on torgue converters such as what rpm, lock up, non lock up? i figure before i work on the engine i should go ahead and do all the maintenance and upgrades to the drive train itself. also, i have heard some people have real hard shifts with the j/mod? is there a way to avoid this? i drive around 110 miles a day, so i want to improve shifting, but dont want earthshaking shifts while cruising around. is this a possible compromise? thanks for the help guys.
97ThunderCat is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-29-2004, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 222
....no love.....
97ThunderCat is offline  
post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-29-2004, 05:40 PM
Cougar Pilot
 
BlackCat94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gopher State
Posts: 3,443
J-Mod - Yes I would still do it! 111k isn't anything to worry about, and this will just add some life on to it most likely. You should'nt be too worried about doing the mod at all. Just do the seperator plate drilling, and the accumulator pistons. Forget about the OD/Reverse servos. Take your time, be careful, follow instructions.
You can have it shift as hard or soft as you'd like. I did the lowest mod to my trans, along with a spring upgrade, and leaving 2 springs out and I'm very happy with the way it shifted.

Torque Converters - The Mark VIII converter is a good budget mod for our cars. It's supposed to stall around 2,600-2,800 I believe. You will need a Mark VIII flexplate to use this as a mod. I ordered a '98 flexplate to use. Newer Mustangs use this same torque converter, though I would recommend you purchase it new.

If you want to spend more you can get a Morris or Pro-Torque for $350-400. A stall of around 3,000-3,200 would be a good thing.

You can also look into the PI Stallion multi-disc converter. You will have to shell out about $700-900 for this unit though.

You NEED a lock up converter!

Gears - Either gear is a good choice, and a good compromise would be 3.90's. It depends on what kind of car you're looking to build. If you drive 110 hwy miles everyday 4.10's probbaly wouldn't be very desirable. The FRPP diff. only comes with 3.73 gears as far as I know anyway.

TCCoA, there's no better way.
BlackCat94 - The Revolution.
1994 XR7 - Intake Tube, LMAF, March Underdrive Pulleys, J-Modded '00 Mustang Trans, Marauder T/C,
TruBendz 2.5" SS True Duals, Apten Flip Chip, FRPP 4.10s & Trac Lock, etc.

[email protected] with 3.27 gears

Last edited by BlackCat94; 01-29-2004 at 05:50 PM.
BlackCat94 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-29-2004, 05:50 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 620
Yes, do it. Use both a bottom and a top 1-2 accumulator spring and no 2-3 spring. Drill the holes to the mild specs. Don't bother with the od and reverse servos. These will make for a simple job.

Edit: beat me to it.
Matt S. is offline  
post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-29-2004, 06:09 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
JoeyICU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Syskesville MD
Age: 33
Posts: 2,894
Garage
the hardest j-mod shift just isnt that bad of a shift....its borerline racecar....but itll jar you.....but its not uncomfortable as you think....you want a mild gear change with no springs probably...prolly what your looking for.....if your pretty good with trannies in general the j-mod is quite easy......directions make it a little more difficult......but this also goes by how mechanically inclined you are...but basically if you follw the steps it isnt that bad.....the part that takes the most thinkin is drilling the holes......when you have the seperator plate out.....mark the holes with marker....then drill them.....so you dont mess up...theres a diagram in jerry's thesis

1995 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 LX - SC wheels, enlarged rear sway bar, full sound system, cut mufflers, PST 1 1/8" rear bar, Eibachs, Mark 8 LCA's, Al housed 3.55 gearset, cut mufflers
2011 BMX X5 Xdrive50i - BMS Stage 1, Cut Muffler
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L-Her stock DD
1984 Ford F250 6.9 IDIT - head studs in progress
JoeyICU is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome