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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-31-2004, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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transmission type question

Hi everyone,

I am a long time reader, first time poster.

I have a 95 cougar xr7 4.6L with the auto tranny.

I have noticed that this model transmission has recommeded modification one this site.

My Question is: My car had a BRAND NEW transmission put into it in 2000 - 2001, the lady I bought the car from did not keep any documentation on the replacement, so how do I know what was put in and if it is one of the later models that do not need the mods other than the trans cooler.

thanks for helping

02 AL PI 4.6L, 02 GT MAF and air box, SCT tune by lonnie.
2.25" true duals, no cats, Borla XS mufflers.
96 trans with 300HP + gear change J-mod, Mark VIII TC, & Hayden 30K GVW cooler.
Solid Rubber engine and tranny mounts. Polly front-end, tranny crossmember, and IRS bushings.
3.73 TL, 93 Mark VIII DS. Tokico Blues all around.
PBR dual piston calipers in front, Rear Disc Brake Swap.
97 console. Cooper 225/60/16s.
14.874 @ 93.56 with 3.27 before 3.73 upgrade
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-31-2004, 09:41 AM
 
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sweet..another oklahoma member welcome!

I think you're talking about the j-mod and trans cooler, correct? Any new/old tranny could use that modification. It helps your tranny shift quicker, which reduces heat (with the cooler also), which makes it last longer. Plus, the jerk when it shifts is cool too

If those aren't the mods you're talking about... explain
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-02-2004, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for responding,

Yes the j-mod was what I was talking about.

In the j-mod tech page, it says to replace the stock metal accumulator pistons with new parts (more rubber) from the the newer trannys.

I was wondering, since my tranny was bought brand new from Ford in 200-2001, I thought it may already have these new parts.

So, how do I find out if I need these parts. Part number plate, drop the pan and look, etc. Or does none of this matter and the j-mod needs to be done no matter what.

Also, if mine does not need the new parts, does it still need the plate drilled out.

I am a pretty good mechanic, but have been a CHEVY man for most of my life, so i'm just not up on how to, or who to call with Ford questions.

thanks for your help,

Rob

02 AL PI 4.6L, 02 GT MAF and air box, SCT tune by lonnie.
2.25" true duals, no cats, Borla XS mufflers.
96 trans with 300HP + gear change J-mod, Mark VIII TC, & Hayden 30K GVW cooler.
Solid Rubber engine and tranny mounts. Polly front-end, tranny crossmember, and IRS bushings.
3.73 TL, 93 Mark VIII DS. Tokico Blues all around.
PBR dual piston calipers in front, Rear Disc Brake Swap.
97 console. Cooper 225/60/16s.
14.874 @ 93.56 with 3.27 before 3.73 upgrade
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-02-2004, 01:38 PM
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If you have a 2000 spec tranny, you shouldn't need any new parts. You do need to drill the plate though.

I think on the J-Mod pages it says that you only need the updated accumulators with a certain range of years of transmissions.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-02-2004, 02:34 PM
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I'm not sure how you would tell what year the transmission was built in.

I would drop the trans. pan, remove the snap ring that holds the 1-2 accumulator, springs, and retainer in place. Then when you pull the accumulator out you can see if it is the rubber bonded version or not. It does like to eject forcefully though, so be sure you know what order everything was in, and don't put the retainer in upside down, that's no good! This doesn't require dropping the valve body, just the pan. While you've got the accumulator out you could leave out the lower accumulator spring if you'd like your shifts to be firmed up.

To go the extra step and remove the VB (Valve Body), remove the 2-3 accumulator spring, and enlarge the holes in the seperator plate wouldn't be much of a chore!

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-02-2004, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks folks for all the advice.

Dropping the pan to make sure sounds like the best choice. I need to change to mercon V and do the cooler anyway

After the trans blew-up, the lady I bought the car from started have the fluid and filter changed every other oil change (every 6000 miles), so it should still be in good shape.

I just love my cougar and don't want a tranny rebuild to ruin my choice of finally trying a Ford product.

once again thanks folks,
Rob

02 AL PI 4.6L, 02 GT MAF and air box, SCT tune by lonnie.
2.25" true duals, no cats, Borla XS mufflers.
96 trans with 300HP + gear change J-mod, Mark VIII TC, & Hayden 30K GVW cooler.
Solid Rubber engine and tranny mounts. Polly front-end, tranny crossmember, and IRS bushings.
3.73 TL, 93 Mark VIII DS. Tokico Blues all around.
PBR dual piston calipers in front, Rear Disc Brake Swap.
97 console. Cooper 225/60/16s.
14.874 @ 93.56 with 3.27 before 3.73 upgrade
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-03-2004, 02:58 AM
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All the hard parts inside the 4R70W after 1998 should be the upfated ones, so all you need is the drilled plate (if you do the j-mod). Keep an eye on the fluid level and condtion, that will tell you about all you need to know about the condition of the transmission. 6000 miles is a really short interval, but it's on the safer side so you should be able to rest peacefully at night. I'm assuming that a Ford shop put the trans in? Hopefully they flushed out the cooler as well. The cooler is a great mod that will definitely extend the life of your transmission.

BTW - Welcome to the club!

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2004, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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From reading the forum and tech pages I noticed that the later model trans had a deeper pan, identified by a pocket on the pan.

I looked under my car and the pan had this pocket (the pan was not flat).

This tells me that it already has the new hard parts in it.

According to Silver95Bird all I need to complete the j-mod is to drill the plate.

While admitting that the j-mod page needs a couple of more reads, don't I also have to remove some springs from the accumulators even if they are the new type.

Thanks again,
Rob

02 AL PI 4.6L, 02 GT MAF and air box, SCT tune by lonnie.
2.25" true duals, no cats, Borla XS mufflers.
96 trans with 300HP + gear change J-mod, Mark VIII TC, & Hayden 30K GVW cooler.
Solid Rubber engine and tranny mounts. Polly front-end, tranny crossmember, and IRS bushings.
3.73 TL, 93 Mark VIII DS. Tokico Blues all around.
PBR dual piston calipers in front, Rear Disc Brake Swap.
97 console. Cooper 225/60/16s.
14.874 @ 93.56 with 3.27 before 3.73 upgrade
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2004, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by girdnerg
While admitting that the j-mod page needs a couple of more reads, don't I also have to remove some springs from the accumulators even if they are the new type.
Remove the 2-3 accumulator spring and throw it away.

Also leave the lower 1-2 accumulator spring out.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-09-2004, 05:54 PM
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moving it along....
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