Finally doing a J-Mod, few last minute concerns... - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-14-2004, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
 
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Finally doing a J-Mod, few last minute concerns...

I decided to go ahead and drill out the seperator plate for the Mild setting for my 95 Mark VIII. I decided to replace all 1-2 2-3 and OD springs and pistons as well and leave nothing out. My main concern is even with all the smooth shifting springs left in how much harder will the car shift just drilling the holes to Mild? The car is plenty fast as is and so I don't want neck jerking shifts or chirps, just a smooth stock feeling shift. Is there a special set of drill sizes for what I am describing or is that what Mild is supposed to be. Also, are the checkballs hole specific or are they all the same size. I want to clean the valve body good and don't want to screw them up installing them wrong...And is there any benifit to going with new shift solenoids on a car with almost a 100K? And last but not least - of the two tranny lines going into radiator/cooler is the upper the supply line or the return line? Thanks. Hopefully my final Qs get taken care of and the weather permits the J-Mod tomorrow.
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-14-2004, 06:47 PM
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If you're doing the OD servo: When you remove the Valvebody, clean it up and do the drilling first while you let the rest drain and drip off. All the checkballs are the same size, just make sure you dont lose them.

When you're ready to remove the servo, take the rooster comb spring (it'll be held in by one bolt, it engages the shift linkage) and find the pocket just to the left of the servo where you can see the band. Use the spring to test the band to see what it should feel like when it's tight. Once you remove the servo, you'll see the small hole the spring fits into in the band, and youll notice the band being much looser. When you reinstall the servo, you must use the spring to push up the band. If you put the servo in, and the band still flops around like when you had the servo out, remove the servo and try again. It's not that hard to do, but it is very important. If you don't get it right, you will find you have no 4th gear. The rest is a cinch.

96 Mustang GT 5spd. w/ 248A Option (GTS). Stock for now until I get the Roush on.

97 Thunderbird 4.6L LX /w Sport Package
24k B&M Cooler, 1" lowered, Steeda UD Pulleys, Dynomax cat-back, J-mod, 3.73's, PI intake, PI cams, 03 GT MAF/Tube, SCT tuned - Gone but not forgotten.
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 02-14-2004, 06:54 PM
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hey.. i think this has been asked before but..


it has been about 3 months since the jmod and now it takes some time to engage drive once i put the shifter in D. someone said time to retorque the valve body bolts back down?

she slipped into neutral last nite while i was at a stoplight.. and the fluid is still at full

lemme know

JD
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