U-Joint life and DS removal - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-10-2004, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
 
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U-Joint life and DS removal

What is the typical life of a u-joint and does anyone have a step by step process in removing the DS. I found a shop that will balance but I need to know how to take the DS out and and put it back in. The search, because I know you guys are going to ask, I did it but did not get all that I needed. Any aid and assistance will help. Thanks.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-10-2004, 09:15 AM
 
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I believe that you just unbolt the end of the driveshaft from the Differential, Make sure to look for the factory marks and re-mark the if they are hard to see. Line these marks up on re-installation for the best balance. Of course you will need to lower the gas tank to get the drive shaft out, unbolt the driveshaft and pull it out of the transmission, be very careful not to tear the rubber seal on the tailhousing of the transmission. Also, you may have to loosen the Differential to get clearance, best to try to get the shaft out with out loosening the differential first though.

I replaced my U-Joints recently with the help of a mechanic, if you're going to have the shaft out, i'd go ahead and replace the stock units with a set of new Greasable units. they aren't expensive at all and its easiest to do it now.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-10-2004, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks...I plan on getting heavy duty u-joints when I get the shaft balanced
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-11-2004, 01:32 PM
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where to get the heavy duty u-joint?
thanks

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-13-2004, 10:47 PM
 
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are you changing from the 1330 style companion flange to a 1350 series u-joint? If so ive been looking at this too and am just wondering how the pinion yoke secures onto and looks on the pinion gear.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by chuacw
where to get the heavy duty u-joint?
thanks
FWIW, I've seen heavy-duty U-joints listed on Advance Auto Parts' website, for $13.88, but I am sure there's other sources, also.


Quote:
Originally posted by MN12-Blackbird
.....does anyone have a step by step process in removing the DS.....
From the 1994 Service Manual:

Driveshaft With Single Cardan U-Joint

Removal

1. Drain fuel tank (9002).

2. Raise vehicle on a frame contact hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».

3. Remove fuel tank modification shield and pipe kit (9B007) on forward side of fuel tank.

4. Remove muffler outlet pipe (5255) at muffler (5230).

5. Lower muffler outlet pipe and support with wire.

6. Remove exhaust hanger insulator (5F262) from exhaust pipe hanger stud.

7. Remove exhaust hanger insulator from hanger stud, lower exhaust system and remove complete system from vehicle.

8. Remove sub-frame crossmember (5K068) on rear side of fuel tank.

9. Remove fuel tank filler pipe retaining bolt from RH frame rail.

10. Place a transmission jack under fuel tank.

CAUTION:
Use care not to damage fuel tank.

11. Remove subframe center support member on forward side of fuel tank.

12. Remove fuel tank support straps (9092). Lower fuel tank approximately 15 cm (6 inches).

13. Locate original paint mark on rear axle universal joint flange (4851) and mark rear driveshaft centering socket yoke (4782) in same location.

NOTE:
If original mark is not visible on rear axle universal joint flange, mark both the rear axle universal joint flange and driveshaft centering socket yoke.

14. Remove four driveshaft retaining bolts.

15. Separate the driveshaft (4602) from the axle. Pull the driveshaft toward the rear of the vehicle until the driveshaft slip yoke (4841) clears the transmission extension housing and seal. Mark the driveshaft slip yoke in relation to transmission output shaft during removal and temporarily install the appropriate plug in the extension housing to prevent lubricant leakage.


Installation

1. Lubricate the driveshaft slip yoke splines with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C (ESA-M1C75-B) or equivalent. Remove the plug from the transmission extension. Inspect the housing seal for damage; replace if required.

2. Align driveshaft slip yoke index mark with transmission output shaft mark and install the driveshaft assembly. Do not allow the driveshaft slip yoke assembly to bottom on the output shaft with excessive force.

3. Align marks on driveshaft centering socket yoke with rear axle universal joint flange. Install and tighten four retaining bolts to 95-130 N-m (71-95 lb-ft).

NOTE:
When installing a new driveshaft assembly, align (factory made) yellow paint mark at rear of driveshaft tube with (factory made) yellow paint mark on outside diameter of rear axle universal joint flange. If paint marks are not visible, refer to «Section 05-00».

4. Raise fuel tank and install fuel tank support straps. Tighten retaining bolts to 29-41 N-m (22-30 lb-ft).

5. Install fuel tank filler pipe (9034) retaining bolt. Tighten retaining bolt to 2.7-3.7 N-m (24-33 lb-in).

6. Install sub-frame crossmember. Tighten two retaining bolts to 20-30 N-m (14-22 lb-ft).

7. Install subframe center support member on forward side of fuel tank. Tighten bolts to 20-30 N-m (14-22 lb-ft).

8. Raise muffler outlet pipe and support with wire.

9. Install muffler and exhaust hanger insulator on hanger studs.

10. Install muffler outlet pipe to muffler. Tighten bolts to 28-40 N-m (21-29 lb-ft).

11. Install fuel tank modification shield and pipe kit on forward side of fuel tank. Tighten bolts to 16-24 N-m (12-17 lb-ft).

12. Lower vehicle.

Last edited by IronChopz; 03-14-2004 at 09:40 PM.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 09:46 PM
 
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how many hours does that bill?
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-15-2004, 01:53 PM
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Good question. Ford's Service Labor Time Standards indicate it's a 1.5hr job for removal, and 1 hour for replacement. I'd bet it differs from that standard, though.
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