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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-11-2004, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
 
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Angry OD dead on '96 T-Bird

My wife just called me to inform me that OD is dead on my '96 T-Bird. While I have just recently picked up an '04 Mercury Marauder (I absolutely love it), we were hoping to use the T-Bird as a driver for awhile. It has almost 134,000 mi. on it.

I was wondering if there is any way to repair the OD band without removing the entire trans, and if it can be done for reasonable cost. Otherwise, I'm going to have to see if I can find a reasonably priced replacement tranny for the rest of the cars life.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-11-2004, 06:33 PM
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You can get a good used trans for around 400 bucks. the 96-97 trans is one of the better 4rw70's but most people opt for a 98 mark 8 trans as it is an easy swap with some better internals and torque converter. You can search on car-part.com for yards near you.

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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-11-2004, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
 
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Very cool and very helpful...did not know of the existence of car-part.com. THANKS!
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-11-2004, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Would anyone forsee any problems w/ driving this thing with OD off for awhile until I can find time to have the trans swapped?

Thanks again.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-11-2004, 10:56 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by dfjkl
Would anyone forsee any problems w/ driving this thing with OD off for awhile until I can find time to have the trans swapped?

Thanks again.
When you click the OD off button does the light on the dash come on?
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-11-2004, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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Yes, it does... ?
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-11-2004, 11:24 PM
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If the "run" fuse is blown, it won't let you turn OD on/off. Better a 15 cent fuse than a $400 transmission job.




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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-11-2004, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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OK. Nice to know. Operating under the assumption that it is the nylon band that shifts it into OD that broke, is it a problem to run the thing in drive until I get it fixed? While I don't want to completely tear up the trans, I'm probably going to just replace it so I don't really care in the long run, but I want to know for sure if it is going to cause any serious damage just driving it with OD off.

Thanks.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-11-2004, 11:54 PM
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Running the car with the OD off shouldn't do anything to it. It'll just kill your freeway mileage. All you're doing when you press the OD toggle button is telling the computer to not try and engage the OD band, locking out OD. I drove mine for a few weeks with OD off without hurting anything. THis was after my J-mod. I pulled the OD servo and didn't get it back onto the band like I was supposed to But yeah.. shouldn't hurt anything.

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-12-2004, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
 
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Cool. That's what I thought, just wanted confirmation. Thanks to all!

I'm thinking about just getting another one to swap into it for the time being...but the wife isn't signing off on it right now.....blah. For now...I'm thinking that will be the easiest course though....and I think she'll be signing off on it soon.

Thanks again.
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-12-2004, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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Anyone have a ball park on what it might cost just to have the OD fixed? How hard is it to replace the band that probably failed?

Thanks.
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-15-2004, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
 
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Is it worth investigating a repair on this.....or should I look for a boneyard trans to replace it for hopefully another 50,000 mi. or so. Also....anything distinguishing (numbers, etc.) that I should look for on a 4R70W to make sure I'm not getting an AODE or something if I end up going that route?

Thanks.
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-18-2004, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by GreenBird
If the "run" fuse is blown, it won't let you turn OD on/off. Better a 15 cent fuse than a $400 transmission job.
Is this in the normal fuse panel? If that fuse is blown, what are the symptoms? My symptoms are like the band is broken. When OD attempts to engage, it just neutralizes. If I lock out OD, I can drive it normally.

Thanks for the assistance.
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-18-2004, 06:17 PM
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My car has the same thing yours does. I have been daily driving the thing for two years. the gas mileage suks, and the most you can do is like 65-70mph. at first you wont go over 50, then after a while its 55, 60, now I cruise the highway, 73 miles a day and I keep a steady 65mph, no problems. Also must keep in mind, the engine and accessories will wear quicker.

FYI: I replaced the MLPS, and both shift solenoids, no luck. Looks like it's the direct clutch.
good luck

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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-18-2004, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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I've been told that the trans has to come out and apart to be able to replace that worn band, so I'm looking at picking up another one and swapping it in. Found one at a VERY reasonable $225 off of car-part.com. I've called the place and they still have it, and I've asked around about the place, and have heard nothing but good things. Plus they warranty it for 100days. So, I'll probably pick it up there and have it just swapped in.
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-18-2004, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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Another question. I have a choice between a '96 and '97 trans. Do the 97's have the up to date accumulator's, etc., or should I tear into it and update those parts?

Thanks.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-18-2004, 07:32 PM
 
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Couldn't he just drop the pan/valve body and replace the OD band? Haven't gotten to my Jmod yet but from reading the trans tech articles that seems more than entirely possible. It seems kind of a waste of money to buy a whole new trans when you could just do it yourself.
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-18-2004, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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I've asked, but no one has told me if it was possible to change the band without pulling the trans out and apart. A local Ford shop told me it has to come out and apart.
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-18-2004, 09:03 PM
 
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if you go to this link and click on A-Trains shift kit install and read through it, there is a part discussing the OD band and its replacement. Hopefully that will help you out a bit and save you some money
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-18-2004, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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I can't find anything in any of the documents that explains how to go about changing the band, or what it attaches to on the other side of the OD servo, or what it even looks like. About the only thing Jerry's bible or A-Train's guide deal with is changing the OD servo and re-attaching the band if you "mis-place" it. I welcome instructions on how to mess w/ the band itself. I have never opened a trans beyond taking off the pan though...and am not anxious to to kill the trans poking around in it when it is perfectly driveable currently (without OD though). I don't know what I'm doing with it really, and the documentation on this specific problem is somewhat sketchy, unless I'm not seeing something that everyone else knows is out there.
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-20-2004, 07:30 PM
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ok, first things first.
What makes you think that the band is dead?
There is a test to determine if the band functions or not, read up on the article for more on this, just cause it wont shift into od, doesnt mean that the band is dead.
Most probable cause is direct drum failure.
Also, the OD band cannot be pulled out the bottom, it can only come out the bellhousing. its pretty much right behind the pump. and comes out with the reverse drum. The problem is with the direct drum, almost the last thing to come out.

Heres the test:
Drive at a steady 50mph, then pull the shift lever into manual second. If the engine free-revs, the OD band is dead. If you get high rpms, engine braking, the OD band is working just fine.

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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-20-2004, 08:18 PM
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Chitown, youre confusing the OD servo with the OD band. You've gotta take the pump and a few other goodies out before you get to the OD band.

modbird, direct drum failure? usually it IS the band dying, I cant ever remember seeing a drum fail.

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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-20-2004, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
 
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Agreed (on what Silver95Bird said).

Everything I've ready indicates it is probably the band, and the thing is functioning perfectly aside from neutraling when it hits OD (1/2 2/3 shifts are still nice and firm).

Thanks for confirming it is a PITA to get to the band.

I've already talked with the place I'm going to pick up a replacement trans at. I can't beat the price, and they said they both came out of vehicles with ~ 76k and were functioning fine. The warranty them for 100 days. Since they are from a 96 and 97 T-Bird, I'm planning on just doing the 1/2 accumulator upgrade myself (I don't have to pull the valve-body for that from everything I've read...right?).

I guess my only remaining question is, if I just do the 1/2 accumulator upgrade, should I bother leaving out the bottom spring? Will I gain anything? Or should I just put both springs in and basically put it back "stock."

Thanks all.
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-20-2004, 10:02 PM
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I would do the 1-2 and 2-3 upgrades (if the trans does not come with them already) as part of the J-mod. drill the plate and leave the 2-3 spring out and if you like the 1-2 to be close to chirping at WOT, remove the lower 1-2 spring. Leaving the lower 1-2 spring in will give a firm but very smooth shift.

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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-20-2004, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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I want to touch that transmission as little as possible. If it is working from where I'm getting it, I don't want to touch it too much. The car has 134k on it, and the wife won't sign off on any motor work until it is dead, so I just plan on driving it hopefully up to 200k. I just want to do the bare essentials on the trans, which as far as I know is the 1/2 accumulator. I do NOT want to pull the valve body. I can get to the 1/2 accumulator without pulling it, right? Should I leave the bottom spring out of the 1/2 without doing any of the other j-mod stuff, or should I just put it back together "stock-like" (which is what I'm leaning toward doing).

Thanks.
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-21-2004, 10:15 AM
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Yeah, that will work. Won't be quite the same, but it will be better than the stock setup. Time to lose the wife too...

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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-21-2004, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Silver95Bird
Yeah, that will work. Won't be quite the same, but it will be better than the stock setup. Time to lose the wife too...
Meaning leave out the bottom spring? Nah...like any woman, she has her good moments and bad. Mostly good...hence, we are married. ...and she let me buy my new '04 Marauder also...so I can't complain too much. Actually...that's part of her issue right now, is we just bought the car, and are going on a little vacation, so she's all worried about the money we got going out right now.....and doesn't want to spend much, but does want to keep miles off the sport trac (we do an 80mi. round trip for work, so we rack the miles up quick).

Thanks.

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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 03-21-2004, 11:05 PM
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Yep, leaving the spring out will make the 1-2 a little more peppy.

I suppose I could get along okay in the meanwhile with a Marauder...
"Yes dear, you can keep her..."

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