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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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J-mod Q.

I am in the middle of doing the J-mod to my 1995 LX. I have everything I need, I just have a few ques. before I drill the plate out. I noticed that after everything is done, I should install the 96 filter, even if I have the stock 95 pan (non-deep sump). Is this a MUST? I bought the 95 filter kit and most parts stores are closed (sun.).

Next ques., can anyone show me a link or a pic as to what hole is #1, #2, etc.. on the separator plate so I can get them in the right order. My PC is not letting any of the pics in the TECH section load, so I have no reference.

Third and hopefully last, I was planning on going w/ the 300HP mod but I'm not sure that this is needed. I plan on building horse as I go along, but not currently at that level. Is the 300hp mod too much, or does it even matter?

Thanks in advance.

Jay

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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I found a pic of the seperator plate hole locations, so one ques. down. Anyone else on the other 2?

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 06:58 PM
 
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Hey fordman i think your wanting to know if the 300 hp setting is to much. Well i did my jmod at that setting and in now way does it feel to much. Its perfect for the stock or slightly modded t-birds and cougars. I will guarantee you'll like that setting. Now i just need to get a chip to squack my tires from 1-2
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 08:29 PM
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If you use the 96 style filter, you need the deep sump pan.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-14-2004, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Joe. I ran out of money for the time being, so I only have the 95 pan and filter set. I know it's not ideal for this car, but it's all I have. I plan on upgrading to the deep sump in the very near future. Now if I could just get that 1-2 accum. in there.... Try, try again. I hope this thing works after I'm done, lol!

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-15-2004, 06:23 AM
 
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hey ford man are you putting bothing springs back in?? If you are you need a good pair of snap ring pliers so you can use one hand for the pliers and one to push on the cover i learned that the hard way
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-15-2004, 06:40 AM
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Yeah, depending on how ahrd you want the 1-2 shfit, you may not want to put the bottom spring back in.

Also. I have a brand new deep sump pan I may be able to sell you for pretty cheap.

Edit: here are the pics for the holes - note#3 (on second pic) is where hole number 8 is, not where it is in the first pic


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Last edited by Aaron_T; 03-15-2004 at 06:49 AM.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-15-2004, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I think I finally figured it out. Aaron, if you would, send me a PM with how much you would be willing to cut that pan loose for please.

On a side note, I found some rather strange(to me at least) things once I got the valve body apart and the sep. plate off. Every single place that a check ball was located already had an X scribed into the alum. next to it, as to mark it. I have never had this tranny apart, and from what I can tell, it has only had the fluid/filter service since I did not find the yellow factory plug floating in the pan.

Second, The #8 hole that the 95 plate is not supposed to have, well, I already had it, just had to drill it out a bit and the updated gaskets lined right up.

I have yet to give her a test run, but I did get the rooster spring right at least, since I have access to all gears. I just got it full enough to grab a gear while cycling through, when the rad. called for attention. Here's hoping. I'll find out tonight after work if I did a good job or not.

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-15-2004, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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Well, just finished up, and it seems as though everything is ok. I cycled through the gears a bit more, and all engage properly. Can manually shift from 1 to D, then hit the button to let OD come in. Needless to say that the shifts are definitly better. And the shudder has dissapeared completely. Now I just have to be carefull in the rain, as at anything above 3,800-4,000 on the 1-2 shift seems to break the tires loose and send the back end out. Have to try again on dry pavement to see the full affect. Figured I shouldn't press my luck in the rain. Thank you for all your guys' help. Everything went according to the plan.

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-16-2004, 01:46 AM
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Nice, good to here everything went smooth.
You'll notice an even bigger difference once you ge that chip.

97' 4.6 LX - [email protected] 1880ft Air Density Altitude, 86*
95' 4.6 40th Anniversary Edition
01' 4.6 F-150 Supercab XLT 4x4
2000 Summit 700
purgeclip
GMvsFordforum
A.R.T.
Scotts' custom gauges
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