FRPP Pumpkin Swap Notes/Impressions - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-23-2004, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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FRPP Pumpkin Swap Notes/Impressions

Well.. a friend of mine and I swapped in my FRPP Centersection yesterday. It was a time consuming by relatively simple job. The tech article was a real help and covered pretty much everything you needed to know. Couple of things were left up to being answered on the board here, mainly how to get the halfshafts out of the pumpkin. (Thanks Timb.) Couple of notes from my install, probably just common sense to alot of people.. but this was my first time messing with a differential.

1. You really only need to take the exhaust loose from the flange after the third cat. The VSS was a little difficult to get to this way, but it wasn't too bad. (And I have fat hands and big forearms. )

2. I really should have filled the differential before I bolted it back up. If I had to do it again, this is what I'd do. Install the halfshafts while the pumpkin was still on the jack, fill it with fluid, /then/ bolt it back to the rear subframe.

3. Also.. if you're replacing the driveshaft while doing this swap. Break all of the driveshaft bolts loose before attempting to remove any one of them. After their broken, loosen one a few turns, then another, then another, etc. After that, we just took them the rest of the way out one at a time.

3b. When removing the driveshaft, you don't have to lower the gas tank all the way. Just take the bolts at the rear of the metal shield that surrounds the tank loose about 1 inch or so and the shaft will clear the rear subframe easy, especially with the giant *** iron pumpkin out of the way.

4. Having an extra set of hands is the /only/ way that I'd attempt to do this swap in a garage. It took us about 8 hours, but like all my mods.. that was taking my time.. beer breaks, etc.



One last thing.. be prepared to take the mother of all showers afterwards.


As for impressions, I haven't really had a chance to romp on the gears since I'm still in the process of breaking things in. But from what I've noticed, they seem to be an /excellent/ match for the Mark VIII converter. When the transmission went in with my 3.27's the car seems a little sluggish at partial throttle, probably because of the looser converter. With the 3.73s, I'm not sure why, but the car seems to have that little bit of pep back. RPMs only went up around 300 at 65mph. All in all, I'd call it a very worth while endeavor.

Hope this'll help any future swappers. Feel free to chime in with other things to make the swap easier.

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1996 4.6L R.I.P December 02, 2004
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Last edited by SanDiegoLXBird; 03-23-2004 at 07:10 PM.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-23-2004, 09:51 PM
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Nice, those 3.73 with trac-loc is very nice. Just be careful driving (turning) in the rain.


I put it in all by myself, and I am skinny and weak

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-23-2004, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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It's okay. I'm used to driving in the rain. Did it for the whole rainy season with almost bald tires. That was fun stuff.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 09:27 AM
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im in the process of putting mine in right now, i just have to put the wheels back on and bleed the brakes. err the other way around... bad news is i quit one night after i got the pumpkin lowered.. well somehow it turned itself over and i woke up to a very smelly garage with a lot of kitty litter needed.

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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ouch. sorry to hear it. Why do you need to bleed the brakes? Did you remove the rear calipers?

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1996 4.6L R.I.P December 02, 2004
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 11:21 AM
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yeah i removed the calipers just for ease. I figure putting the brakes back on is a no biggie and it proved to be a pita. ahah and i was very shocked to see how small our rear brakes are, they are tiny!

97 Tbird 4.6
VT built block, fox lake PI heads
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4.10's, KB boost a spark.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Seriously. All you really needed to do for clearance around the rear brakes was to disconnected the Ebrake cable. I just set the caliper on the LCA and it was just fine and dandy there. THough.. the caliper did take a bit of coaxing to get back on, as I didn't bother compressing it. ^_^

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 12:21 PM
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hahaha yeah, the piston didnt really want to return flush w/ the caliper, i was getting teed off. i got it in, just not time to test her out yet

97 Tbird 4.6
VT built block, fox lake PI heads
Vortech at XY psi
4.10's, KB boost a spark.
Yummy.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 01:33 PM
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Wink

You guys do know there's a special tool for turning the piston in, right?

TCCoA, there's no better way.
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TruBendz 2.5" SS True Duals, Apten Flip Chip, FRPP 4.10s & Trac Lock, etc.

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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I know. But I don't have it. Heh.

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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 08:21 PM
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what do you think i am? made of money? lol i just bought $700 of rear end stuff, i aint a bank :-)

97 Tbird 4.6
VT built block, fox lake PI heads
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4.10's, KB boost a spark.
Yummy.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 08:34 PM
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Yeah, i put mine in this past weekend. Driveshaft bolts were rather tight, sucked. I'm still waiting on my MMX shaft though. Then i'll drop the pumpkin again.

Yeah, that iron beast...wow... weighs a ton.

My gears are broken in, with my mods, it was a very nice improvement. I might go steeper in the future, will have to see how my highway milage is over the next few months.

Also waiting on my marauder tc as well. That and the new driveshaft will go in as soon as i get them.

Limited slip rules.

I have every bolt-on basically now, and the car is very fun to drive.

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http://www.nsnmotorsports.com
"Fordless" - But I do have alot of Mercon V laying around...
'96 Eagle Talon ESI

Parts ---> Dan Newman - Town & Country Ford - 800-847-2047
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 08:41 PM
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yeah i was surprised to hell how tight the driveshaft bolts were on.. i had to use about a foot of leverage w/ my wrench to break them loose, and that was even hard. I felt like i had no control of that pumpkin falling from the back of the car, it was just too dense. Saturday I get to put in my new tranny so i hope i can actuallydrive my car for the first time in 4 months!

97 Tbird 4.6
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4.10's, KB boost a spark.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by chrisnack
I have every bolt-on basically now, and the car is very fun to drive.
Seriously. It's a totally different beast now. I'm hoping to get a chip and be able to install my GT MAF sometime in the coming months. Heh.. It really is a slippery slope once you start modding.

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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 11:25 PM
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I didn't do anything to my exhaust, the pumpkin fit down between my true duals, was kind of nice.

I have a 02 GT maf sitting in a box, it's going in April 4th when i have my SCT tune.

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"Fordless" - But I do have alot of Mercon V laying around...
'96 Eagle Talon ESI

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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-24-2004, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah.. with Lonnie gone I'm not sure if SCT will ever come back to San Diego. And if they do, I'll probably not hear about it until after the fact. LOL. Anyway... I dropped the exhaust mostly for extra clearance. It was like.. 15 minutes.. not that big of a deal.

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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 06:06 PM
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My exhaust isn't coming out without some cutting..and that sucks the big one..

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"Fordless" - But I do have alot of Mercon V laying around...
'96 Eagle Talon ESI

Parts ---> Dan Newman - Town & Country Ford - 800-847-2047
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 06:45 PM
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Why do you have to cut up your exhaust to get it off the car?

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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aaron K.
Why do you have to cut up your exhaust to get it off the car?
Hangers are welded up ... shop welded nuts on the ends of the hangers... not a big deal.. nothing a torch won't fix..

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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by chrisnack


Hangers are welded up ... shop welded nuts on the ends of the hangers... not a big deal.. nothing a torch won't fix..
That sucks...I thought you were gonna say that you had to cut it beacuse its one piece. I would have given ya crap because mines all one piece and I can get it off in ~15 minutes

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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-25-2004, 10:31 PM
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Yeah does suck... but nothing i can do about it... oh well...

I gotta pick up my Marauder TC from UPS tomorrow. Still waiting on the MMX shaft, but I don't "need" that for the tune...

Gotta find the time to get that bad boy installed...

NSN Motorsports
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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-05-2004, 04:37 PM
 
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you got thread lock on those 4 bolts on the drive shaft right nothin a little map gas wont free up i used a offset wrench to take mine off just like the nuts on the torque converter loosened right up
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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-13-2004, 12:20 AM
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i didnt have to use heat or any other trick to loosen the bolts on my driveshaft. got in there with nice long breaker bar and it took care of them no problem.
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