Which Tranny cooler? B&M or Jegs? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-29-2004, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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Arrow Which Tranny cooler? B&M or Jegs?

I finally got some extra income and since I'm getting a bunch of useful tools (Car jacks mainly) for my birthday. I want something to use my tools on.

I have noticed 2 brands of tranny coolers are talked about the most: Jegs and B&M. Which one should I choose and why? I ask this because I read B&M doesn't supply you with an installation kit and I did a search to discover that some tranny coolers don't give you enough hose or something like that.

I'm also worried about installation, since the Tech article isn't very... helpful you could say, but that comes next.. First I need to choose one!

If you have one, please tell me the size (deminsions) of it and the price!

I will probably purchase one towards the end of this week.

EDIT: On my search I found this thread --> http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.p...r+Installation about installation..
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-29-2004, 03:44 PM
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Jegs seels the coolers, B&M and Hayden are 2 of the manufactures that make them. The B&M 24K seems to be the popular one most people go for. Installation is pretty easy, just find a place to mount it and run the lines to it.

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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
 
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B&M 24K...

Is there anything additional I would need along with this cooler?

EDIT: I am also confused about exactly what wires to splice or what to hook it up to... Do I place it RIGHT ABOVE or underneath the transmission?? I really have no clue where to even place it!
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 09:54 AM
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The B&M 24000 is the way to go. It includes an installation kit, but I bought extra hose from the local parts store just to be safe.
There are some pics of installations in the "Car Gallery" section on the home page.

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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jack K
The B&M 24000 is the way to go. It includes an installation kit, but I bought extra hose from the local parts store just to be safe.
There are some pics of installations in the "Car Gallery" section on the home page.

Oh, it does include a kit???? Sweet.

Did you have to use the hose you bought (and if so what kind of hose did you buy?)?
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 10:28 AM
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I used some hose that came with it, and bought a bit of my own for the other line. I don't have mine installed inline with the rad anymore since I swapped the 03 Cobra rad in (no built in heat exchanger). I can take a few pics of mine so you can get an idea of where to mount it. Mine works great. I mounted it under the front air dam using the power steering cooler bracket (w/ a little mod.). Bolts back up to the car using the original bolts. Now it just holds the cooler and the power steering cooler at the same time. Looks nice, good air flow (since it's mounted horizontaly), and up far enough to NOT get crushed if someone parks it on a curb Let me know if you would like pics, and I'll shoot some of the engine area (where the hoses are at) and the cooler. I can measuere the cooler as well as show you where I routed the hoses. Not very hard, just time consuming. Of course with the rad. and battery tray out at the time, mine was easy


Jay

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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If you could show pictures that'd be awesome, because I'm with you in understanding until you started this.....

"...mounted it under the front air dam using the power steering cooler bracket (w/ a little mod.). Bolts back up to the car using the original bolts. Now it just holds the cooler and the power steering cooler at the same time. Looks nice, good air flow (since it's mounted horizontaly), and up far enough to NOT get crushed if someone parks it on a curb..."

I'm just wanting to make sure I get all this crap squared away, because when I put this car up on jacks and show my grandfather what I'm going to install, I have to be 100% correct or he is just going to give me a ton of sh*t about how it's a point A to B vehicle and how I don't need to be doing this... (Even though this is a great tranny life extender!)

Would it be a good idea to go ahead and drain the transmission fluid and add Mercon V to the transmission and cooler? (6 quarts right?)
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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EDIT ADD IN: ---> I have yet to do any kind of transmission draining/refilling with the fluid and I have no idea if the last owner did.


I got the car at 79000. It's at 89500 now. That's why I was asking.
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 11:13 AM
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Not a problem. I'll grab the camera when I get home, as the bird is there, and I'm at work. I should get home around 6 p.m. or so, and should be able to post the pics no later than 7 or so. It's not as hard as you think, but I know how people can give you crap for a mod when THEY think it's worthless. If he still thinks its worthless, ask him if he'll pay for the rebuild when the tranny cooks itself to death. Bet I know the answer And yes, if you do not know when/if the trans fluid was changed, I would go ahead and change it. Would drop the pan, drain the converter, and get all the fluid out that you can, and then install a new filter and refill everything w/ Mercon V. Since you have a 97, you have the deep sump pan, so you may need a little extra fluid if you change everything. Keep in mind that the cooler will take a little over a quart (at least mine did) to fill it. Add that to the amount it takes to fill the converter and pan, you should be right about at 15 quarts or so. I may be off on the amount, as I have my Mark VIII pan waiting install, so I still have the stock non-sump pan on my 95. I know that in the tech articles and a search I found out how to change/flush the fluid. Give that a shot, and if you can't remember it all, print it out if you can so you can have it next to you when working on the car itself. Less chance of forgetting an important step that could cost you $$$ in the end.

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 11:14 AM
 
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I got the B&M 24K cooler from Summit, I'm sure they're all the same no matter where you get them. That one does come with about 6 ft of hose, some fittings, clamps, etc. All I did was cut one of the two lines that run into and out of the tranny cooler on the radiator, don close to the bottom, cut the supplied hoe in half, put one end of the hose on one of the cut ends of the pipe, ran it to the cooler, put the other end of the other hose on the other cut part of the line, and ran that to the cooler. clamp it up and you're good to go.

Joe
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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
 
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Well.. First I just wanted to say thank you all for your help, especially FordMan77. I know that's going really far out of your way and I really appreciate it.

If there is anything I can do to help you guys (for some odd reason if you need it) let me know!
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 04:55 PM
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No problem. I know what it's like trying to do something new and not knowing exactly how. I have a post-it attached to my wallet, and I sent myself an email at home so I remember to take and post those pics for ya. I forget everything!! Should be up around 7 I hope. I WILL get them tonight, even if I make it a little later.

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 08:16 PM
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Ok, here you go. This may be kind of long, but it is needed to explain. I hope the pics show up. If not, I'll email them to you.

[IMG][/IMG]

The yellow arrow shows the bolt(s) that are used to hold the braket to the power steering cooler. I just unbolted it and positioned the cooler there as a test fit. One of the holes on the cooler will line up, the other you will have to drill. You should figure it out once you climb under there. The purple arrow is supposed to point the the flat part of the cooler. That is the part you drill the new hole in, just drill near where one of the original steering cooler bolts go. The steering cooler will come down when you unbolt it, so making the holes match shouldn't be hard.


[IMG][/IMG]


This above shows the route I ran the new lines. Not a very good shot, but as you can see it follows the plastic air dam and then there should be a small opening in the body under the battery bracket that they will fit through. Keeps them out of harms way, and reduces the chance that they will get a hole rubbed in them by moving against something around it.






[IMG][/IMG]


This shows the direction the hoses should run, and also how the power steering cooler and the trans cooler look put together.







This shouold be the TOP trans hard line that you removed from the radiator. This shows how the hose is clamped. What I did to make a good fitting was cut the line about 4" back, flared the end, and then pushed the new hose on until about 2" of hose was past the flare at the end. Then I double clamped it to make sure it wouldn't pop off. So far, no leaks.

[IMG][/IMG]



Below is the space constraints you will face if you try to do it with the battery and it's tray in the way. This is fully assembled. This is also a good time to show off my 03 Cobra Radiator. And you think space was an issue before. It's cramped over there now, but it all looks stock.

[IMG][/IMG]



And just for the heck of it, here's another pic of the new rad. and fan installed when I ran the cooler. Looks good IMHO. A little glare from the alum. top tho.

[IMG][/IMG]



And in case you could use another reference photo of the hoses and whatnot, below is a shot of them all in the corner of the engine bay near the battery. This is after full assembly as well. Note the use of double clamps on EVERY fitting I made. Can't risk blowing the line loose and pumping my tranny dry of Mercon V.

[IMG][/IMG]



Hope this helps. I own a crappy camera and was in a hurry so I could get them online to you. If you have any concerns, just post and I'll try to answer. As far as the line installation, you will have to search or ask around, because I did not use the factory radiator to install this, so your hoses will be run differently. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

Jay

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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Dude OMG! GREAT POST. I just recommended it for tech articles.

Also T H A N K Y O U AGAIN for your trouble. I am going to order the tranny cooler right now.

Thanks again. And YOU SIR, KICK AZZ !!!!!!!

Also, good job on the radiator.. Have trouble fitting that in to your bird?
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 09:06 PM
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Nope, not really. All I had to do was flip the original upper mounts left to right, and then turn them upside down, and wahlah- instant mount! The bottom uses the original grommets as well, but that was kinda a pain. Had to put one in first, then just pull on it so that it would stretch enough for me to line up the other side, then a big PUSH!!! Down it went. The Cobra fan was easier to install than the stock fan. It doesn't have the same type of shroud around it. Just splice in the pigtail for the 03 fan to the original fan wiring, and it works great. I love the way it looks in there. So much better than stock. Thanks for recommending that for a tech article. That's awesome. I just like to contribute when I can. I don't know much about this car yet, but I can fake it, lol! Sorry it took so long for me to post. Had to Photochop, then get everything hosted. Glad you could use it. Hope that convinces your family members. Good luck!

Jay

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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No it's not a problem at all. Your quality is just fine camera wise.

I'm trying to buy the freaking thing and all these dealers are either not selling it or confusing me....

What site did you purchase yours from?
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 09:21 PM
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Hold on a sec, I can post the link...

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by FordMan77
Hold on a sec, I can post the link...
I found one.. but I'll go with yours instead (Probably cheaper!)
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 09:27 PM
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Here ya go. That is the place I got mine from. $48 isn't bad considering the cheapest I found it anywhere else was $56.

http://www.ttperformance.net/shop/pr...4758fb9da1463e


Jay

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally posted by FordMan77
Here ya go. That is the place I got mine from. $48 isn't bad considering the cheapest I found it anywhere else was $56.

http://www.ttperformance.net/shop/pr...4758fb9da1463e


Jay
Thank you!! You are awesome man! I owe you one!

This is also much cheaper than the one I found (66.88 at Advanced Auto Parts)
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 09:36 PM
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These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 09:38 PM
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UPS shipping to me in MO gave me a total of $54.45. Not sure what it will be to get it to you, but I'm sure not much more. Let me know how it turns out. If you order it tonight, you should get it by fri. or mon. using ground ship.

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally posted by FordMan77
UPS shipping to me in MO gave me a total of $54.45. Not sure what it will be to get it to you, but I'm sure not much more. Let me know how it turns out. If you order it tonight, you should get it by fri. or mon. using ground ship.
Well, I'm stuck at UK until April 9th, which then I will be able to finally work on my car.. So they can take their time.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-31-2004, 10:03 AM
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is it get more airflow mounting it horizontally than vertically? your set up will also put the power steering temparature to be risen right?
just wonder....

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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-31-2004, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originally posted by chuacw
is it get more airflow mounting it horizontally than vertically? your set up will also put the power steering temparature to be risen right?
just wonder....
I have no clue. How would power steering temparature rise because of it?
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-31-2004, 11:03 AM
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I would assume that he is refering to the fact that the trans. cooler is now close to being sandwiched up against the bottom of the power steering cooler.

I thought about that, but then thought about thermodynamics, and figured w/ the air flow, it wouldn't matter. Heat rises. By itself, the power steering cooler radiates heat upwards, since it too is mounted horizontal. If I slap the trans cooler directly beneath it, but as not to completely block the steering cooler, I would assume that the heat from the cooler would radiate up towards the steering cooler, then the steering cooler would radiate its heat up as well, thus all the heat would still be flowing upwards and away from the coolers, provided there is sufficient air. I really don't see why Ford even put a steering cooler on here, as none of my other cars have one and they all seem fine , but who knows, I'm not an engineer. With the amount of air that the front dam pulls in while you are rolling, I don't see an issue. I'm sure that the temp of the steering fluid raises somewhat, but to what degree I do not know. Power steering fluid is hydraulic fluid as well, so it should be able to take a little heat just as the trans. fluid does. If I'm wrong, I'll find out when the steering pump cooks itself, but I don't see how it would happen. Hope that clears a bit up.

And I mounted the cooler horizontal for a few reasons:

A: Won't get damaged by rocks as if it was mounted flat against the a/c condenser

B: Looks better, clean and stock looking

C: It really didn't matter to me which way the fins on the cooler faced (vert. or horiz.), I was just going for max. amount of air flow. I figured if Ford put a steering cooler down there, it must get some good air, so I just added it there. And I didn't want to "cheese out" and just zip tie it somewhere. If I'm gonna spend the money to get the part, I want to get full benefit from it and make it look as professional of an install as possible, even for "ghetto fab" type stuf, lol! I'm picky like that tho..

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-31-2004, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
 
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I got a quick ? for you.

Is a big difference between the underneath of a 95 and 97?

I mean I don't wanna crawl under there.. and you know.. Kind of find out it's a bit different!
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-31-2004, 01:42 PM
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Honestly, I don't know. Never looked under the front clip of a 97. I'll dig around and see if I can find a pic of the 97 front clip and get back to you on that. I would think NO, but you know how Ford is, like to change something just a bit every year....

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-31-2004, 02:05 PM
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Ok, well, from what I can tell, there is no difference. Don't hold me to that, as I can't find a very clear picture, but a search says it to be true. Maybe someone with a 97 will chime in and fill us in. Sorry can't give better info than that.

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-31-2004, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally posted by FordMan77
Ok, well, from what I can tell, there is no difference. Don't hold me to that, as I can't find a very clear picture, but a search says it to be true. Maybe someone with a 97 will chime in and fill us in. Sorry can't give better info than that.
Hey that's cool.. If not, I can use my brain and figure out a way for it to fit!
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