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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-21-2004, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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tranny no shifty

finished putting everything back together after the mod and heres the prob, the tranny doesnt seem to want to shift. it engages the gears but you have to gas it to get it to move and when its going i cant feel it shift at all. it took 13qts of fluid when i filled it and i made sure to go through the gears several times after putting more fluid in it. so did i f*** something up and need to rip it back apart, or just have some air pockets in the vb?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-21-2004, 11:51 PM
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I'd say you have to go back in. Are all the wiring harnesses in correctly and is the mlps in correctly also? Did you maybe not hook up the inner harnesses or shifter linkage correctly?
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1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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thats what i thougt but i was hoping someone was going to say something and then i would be like "im a retard". i did have the mlps hooked up wrong at first, had to put in in rev to start the car, but i fixed that. the only thing i can think of is maybe the 1-2 accum (cup and seal i think its called) got messed up when i took it out and isnt sealing properly. i dont know if its a possibility but it was a pita to get out and maybe i f'd it up. well i guess i know what im doing this weekend, DOH!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 12:30 AM
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you updated to all the new accumulator pistons correct?

1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
2003 SVT Focus: - SCT X3 tuner
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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yeah the part im talking about sits under the 1-2 piston. didnt want to come out cause the spring was broken in about 3 places.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 12:36 AM
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ah okay. I can't see how you could mess that up since you just stick it in and snap the ring in there.
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1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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i dont know, cant really think of any other reason why it wont shift. just have to tear it apart again and check everything over.......again.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 12:54 AM
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yup, it sucks. But look on the bright side, you can do it faster this time now that you know what you're doing Let me know what you find out.
-Thomas

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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this is my answer, i dont have the time to dink around pulling it apart and putting it back together and hoping its going to work. dont have that luxury, i need my wheels for work. have one of those jobs that when you dont show up they court martial you. so in goes the new vb on saturday and im done with it.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 11:17 PM
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Cool, well hopefully the vb is where your problem is. I don't know how long it takes you, but I can tear out my vb and have it back together in just 1-2 hours. It wouldn't be hard just to take the pan off and check and see what your problem is. It may not be the vb at all.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-22-2004, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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yeah it might not be the problem at all but i need to cover the bases, i have to have it running this weekend. i dont think it will take too long for me to have it apart and put back together. couple of hours at the most and im hoping to be burning some rubber.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-27-2004, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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well i put in the new pa valvebody and its still f'd up, so it must not have been that. its out of my hands now though, i sent it to a shop. i just dont have time to play with it and i need it next week for sure. so far the shop told me (from running a diagnostic) that there are no external problems, and they are moving on to the valvebody and pistons and all that stuff. they told me that the line pressure was low, i dont know why. crossleak, bad seal on one of the pistons? i dont know but im glad i didnt drive it around like that and burn up the clutches. keep ya updated.
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