Leave the seperator plate alone? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-18-2004, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
 
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Leave the seperator plate alone?

I was wondering...some guys seem to like the shifts better without drilling out the plate. Pros/cons?

---sure would be easier!

BTW- this would be using the new accumulators and only top 1-2 and no 2-3 spring. Trans has 160,000 miles on it.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-18-2004, 01:53 PM
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drilling the holes is the easy part.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-18-2004, 03:14 PM
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I'd jmod it. If it's been taken care of it will last. If the fluid hasnt been changed in 80,000 then who knows how long it will last... but either way taking that slippage out of the tranny will reduce the heat in the fluid, which is always good.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-18-2004, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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OK, I get it. The larger holes increase the life of the trans.
cool...I kinda thought drilling the holes would mean removing the valve body. Isn't that more difficult than not removing it?
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-18-2004, 11:33 PM
 
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You have to remove the valvebody to drill the holes, but it's not difficult, just messy.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-19-2004, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
 
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yeah, thats what I'm dreading. I don't even have a driveway at my current house, so its gonna prove to be be EXtra messy. All the dirt and dust makes me worry about it getting in the trans or any other part and ruining the whole job.
I guess I shouldn't look for shortcuts though.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-19-2004, 07:47 AM
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If you hook a hose to the line coming out of the trans to the radiator, or on top where the fluid comes out of the radator, you can turn the car on and drain about 1 gallon of the fluid out. this will greatly reduce the big fluid spill you'll make. Wear old clothes too, tranny fluid never really comes out.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-19-2004, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks. I have a bad habit of not thinking about what clothes I have on before I crawl under the car! I read that only about 1 quart will remain in the pan after I pump out through the open line....true? or does only about a gallon come out?
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-20-2004, 12:36 AM
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Oh there's more than a quart left, but not too much. I would recommend getting the oil pan with the drain plug so it only has to be this messy once. Also, you have to remove the valve body to change the accumulator springs or pretty much anything else. Might as well do it.

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-20-2004, 09:20 PM
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i think the drilling part is the easiest part of the jmod (if you have a press), except for peeling off that d*mn gasket material off of it...

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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-20-2004, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
 
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therein lies a problem. I'll be working with a 12V cordless drill. No press.....I'm sure I'm not the only one who has had that problem...right??
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-20-2004, 10:43 PM
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I've done some with a press, others with a regular cord drill... its really not hard, just take your time, don't rush, and read the directions! One step at a time and you'll see it's really not hard.

96 Mustang GT 5spd. w/ 248A Option (GTS). Stock for now until I get the Roush on.

97 Thunderbird 4.6L LX /w Sport Package
24k B&M Cooler, 1" lowered, Steeda UD Pulleys, Dynomax cat-back, J-mod, 3.73's, PI intake, PI cams, 03 GT MAF/Tube, SCT tuned - Gone but not forgotten.
MAMN12 Drag Racing Team [email protected] In need of updated times.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-21-2004, 12:55 AM
 
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I've done all mine with a drill, don't worry about that part at all. I agree the hardest part is cleaning the seperator plate gaskets off. I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder for the stubborn pieces.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-21-2004, 11:23 PM
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Also a NEW razor blade works well for removing those gaskets. It's gotta be sharp though, thats the key.

96 Mustang GT 5spd. w/ 248A Option (GTS). Stock for now until I get the Roush on.

97 Thunderbird 4.6L LX /w Sport Package
24k B&M Cooler, 1" lowered, Steeda UD Pulleys, Dynomax cat-back, J-mod, 3.73's, PI intake, PI cams, 03 GT MAF/Tube, SCT tuned - Gone but not forgotten.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-22-2004, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
 
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removing them from an edge? or just scraping them off?
I gotta get some razors either way
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-22-2004, 11:29 AM
 
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On mine, the razor removed most of it, but there was still some pieces around some of the holes that even a new razor couldn't take care of. I have done a couple JMods that the whole gasket came off in one piece just using a razorblade around the edges to break it free.
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-23-2004, 06:54 PM
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u should definitly drill the plate since you'll have the valve body out to change the 2-3 accumulator. when we did mine we used a regular cordless drill and the gaskets werent to hard to get off.

Frank

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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-30-2004, 12:47 AM
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Ok, I'll probably look like a DUMB A** for this one, but I'd rather ask then get it screwed up. The mods for the accumulators (Atrains article) are listed seperate from the valve body/main control mods, do you have to do both, or can you drill the plate without doing the accumulators? Will it have the same effect that way, or is it pointless to drill the plate without doing the accumulators?
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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-30-2004, 09:10 AM
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the firm shifts come from the seperator plate basically. the springs and accumulators are just updated b/c they tend to break. And basically its a pain to do the jmod 2 times so its just good to do it all at once while you have it apart

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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-30-2004, 09:21 AM
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there is no good reason not to do both. once the valve body is out to drill the plate, the accumulators are right there. its about 10 more minutes of work. and if you were thinking about just doing the accumulators, u gotta pull the valve body out anyway to get to them (only the 1-2 accumulator can be reached with valve body still in) so why not drill ther seperator plate.

frank

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post #21 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-30-2004, 01:53 PM
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Cool thanks guys. Guess I'll be getting part numbers to place an order with Dan now.
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post #22 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-05-2004, 01:10 PM
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I just removed springs and drilled the seperator plate. BTW my gaskets just PEELED right off =) no razor required!

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post #23 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-05-2004, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by AnthraxBird
I just removed springs and drilled the seperator plate. BTW my gaskets just PEELED right off =) no razor required!
same here

2007 Dodge Ram 1500
2008 Suzuki GSX-R1000

Previous Rides:
2003 Suzuki GSX-R750
2003 Mustang Cobra 10th Anniversary - 11.2 @ 130
1997 Thunderbird LX 4.6 - 13.7 @ 103
1993 Thunderbird LX 3.8 - Slow
1990 Thunderbird 3.8 - Slower
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