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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-19-2004, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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19k GVW install

ok, well i have all the stuff i need, 4' of 5/16th neoprean fuel line, 4 clamps, those things that go threw your radiator to mount it, hard line bent so i can screw it into the return line, run the neoprean hose, then just shove it on the stock lines and clamp it, now, my boss says we need to remove the fan and tilt the radiator back some to get it on, he works for a ford body shop and owns a 10 sec falcon, do you think that to hard to install a cooler, or its pretty good way to get it installed, and im not gona be fancy with where its mounted as long as the thing cools my hot *** tranny i dont care where its at

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-20-2004, 05:11 AM
 
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Ok, as long as you got the High Pressure hose, you're good to go. You don't have to do ANY thing with the fan/radiator. Don't use those cheezy zip tie things that it came with. If you're going to do it. Do it right and make brackets to hold it in position. The Lower raditor mount has a bolt right there in the center that makes for a great place to attach it to. In addition to numerous other spots in the area. To install mine, i got a pipe nipple from the transmission/radiator shop and screwed it into the top outlet on the radiator (1995 model, 96 should be the same) i then ran the rubber hose from there to the cooler's inlet, for the other connection on the trans cooler (the outlet), you'll just need to run some rubber hose to the hardline that you disconnected from the radiator (top line) just slide the compression fitting back some and slip the rubber hose over the hardline a ways, make sure to use TWO hose clamps here to insure that the rubber hose doesn't slip off of the metal hard line. Mount the cooler first, then run the hoses to it. If you bought a B&M Stacked Plate Cooler, it should have plenty of places on the cooler to mount brackets to. I never had to move anything or modify any part of my car in order to install this cooler. I opted not to cut my factory hardline in the case that i burst a rubber hose or my cooler is damaged, i'm able to return to the factory setup and bypass the cooler very easily.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-20-2004, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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with the setup im gonna do, the factory hardline is gonna be slid back some, im gonna push the fitting back and slide the high pressure fuel line hose over the stock hardline, i also have two fitings bent so it can screw into the stock return line, then run the high pressure hose, im going to mount it with the zip tie pieces, just b/c i dont feel like messing with fabing up all this braketing to mount the thing, i just want it on there soon, like monday, i guess ill tell him it wont be hard at all, and wont require moving the fan and tilting the radiator back,but ill check for sure once its under a lift

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-20-2004, 09:15 PM
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where are you going to mount it for curiousities sake?

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-20-2004, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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ill see what happens tomorow, in my mind im thinkin more towards the drivers side of the radiator so i dont have to get alot of cooler lines all intertwined and all, but ill see tomrow at lunch , o and id mount it a diffrent way but my boss is helping me and he said just go with the zip ties for now, b/c its not that serious being a street car into like the hi 14s

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-20-2004, 09:53 PM
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i just asked b/c mine is mounted parallel right infront of the radiator/ac condensor and i believe it works fine. only took 2 holes to drill and 2 pieces of iron

97 Tbird 4.6
VT built block, fox lake PI heads
Vortech at XY psi
4.10's, KB boost a spark.
Yummy.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2147246
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-20-2004, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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i dont like drilling holes, so ill mount it this way, if i ever get adventerous ill hard mount it somehwere, but for now it works, better then stock, i want the install to take no more then an hour, so it wont,with a lift and any tool i need at hand itll be fine, so the after this, the next project is my pi intake, once i get it

1995 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 LX - SC wheels, enlarged rear sway bar, full sound system, cut mufflers, PST 1 1/8" rear bar, Eibachs, Mark 8 LCA's, Al housed 3.55 gearset, cut mufflers
2011 BMX X5 Xdrive50i - BMS Stage 1, Cut Muffler
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L-Her stock DD
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-23-2004, 10:02 AM
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the bottom radiator support has two holes on it that i used to screw the bottom of the cooler...then i ran the hoses to one side....


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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-23-2004, 01:47 PM
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use something stronger than zip ties. that thing bouncing around could easily damage itself or the radiator.




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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-23-2004, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
the bottom radiator support has two holes on it that i used to screw the bottom of the cooler...then i ran the hoses to one side....
hell yeah! thats where mine is, except higher up

97 Tbird 4.6
VT built block, fox lake PI heads
Vortech at XY psi
4.10's, KB boost a spark.
Yummy.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2147246
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-23-2004, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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its on the AC condensor, its not mounted directly to the radiator, i may just relocate the thing, but i just need it on for now, i dont have a whole lot of time to fiddle with it, but those two holes look like they may have saved me alot of time, but ill see

1995 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 LX - SC wheels, enlarged rear sway bar, full sound system, cut mufflers, PST 1 1/8" rear bar, Eibachs, Mark 8 LCA's, Al housed 3.55 gearset, cut mufflers
2011 BMX X5 Xdrive50i - BMS Stage 1, Cut Muffler
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-23-2004, 05:41 PM
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smokymance, do you only have it attached at those 2 bolts? or is there somethign on the top of that?

97 Tbird 4.6
VT built block, fox lake PI heads
Vortech at XY psi
4.10's, KB boost a spark.
Yummy.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2147246
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-23-2004, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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everything done, except my top line thats made by me, i didnt have the right fitting where it has metal then threads so the flare seals properlly and doesnt leak, thats my goal tomorow to get that fiting and get her done, all the lines are ran, i use like 6 feet ish, i remounted it right to the passenger side a little bit right where the bird is on the AC compressor

1995 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 LX - SC wheels, enlarged rear sway bar, full sound system, cut mufflers, PST 1 1/8" rear bar, Eibachs, Mark 8 LCA's, Al housed 3.55 gearset, cut mufflers
2011 BMX X5 Xdrive50i - BMS Stage 1, Cut Muffler
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L-Her stock DD
1984 Ford F250 6.9 IDIT - head studs in progress
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-24-2004, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by ZackG
smokymance, do you only have it attached at those 2 bolts? or is there somethign on the top of that?
yep...i checked if it would wabble a lot to hit the rad behind it but i put washers in and tightened it solid so it doest wabble at all

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-24-2004, 05:17 PM
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The right way to do it...
Is to make brackets out of metal flat bar,and drill the appropriate holes to match with the cooler.



I also replaced the stock wuss-boy PS cooler with a small 4-pass trans cooler.


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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-24-2004, 05:22 PM
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looks somewhat familiar..


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VT built block, fox lake PI heads
Vortech at XY psi
4.10's, KB boost a spark.
Yummy.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2147246
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-24-2004, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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i have it mounted fine, theres a few right ways to do it, im having issues with my top retern line screw in piece, its bugging me, right now i ahve a fiting in there, but i think its still gonna leak, i guess ill find out, i have plenty of mec V

1995 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 LX - SC wheels, enlarged rear sway bar, full sound system, cut mufflers, PST 1 1/8" rear bar, Eibachs, Mark 8 LCA's, Al housed 3.55 gearset, cut mufflers
2011 BMX X5 Xdrive50i - BMS Stage 1, Cut Muffler
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L-Her stock DD
1984 Ford F250 6.9 IDIT - head studs in progress
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-24-2004, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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i finaly got it not to leak and install, damn top fiting, i guess thats how i learn to do things better, mess up, litterllay 6 times, then get it right the last try

1995 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 LX - SC wheels, enlarged rear sway bar, full sound system, cut mufflers, PST 1 1/8" rear bar, Eibachs, Mark 8 LCA's, Al housed 3.55 gearset, cut mufflers
2011 BMX X5 Xdrive50i - BMS Stage 1, Cut Muffler
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L-Her stock DD
1984 Ford F250 6.9 IDIT - head studs in progress
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-26-2004, 12:38 PM
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too late.. but...
This is how mine WAS and it worked awesome, even with out a fan on it (which isn't pictured ) there was more then enough airflow around it and everything.. and wasnt' blocking the rad/condensor either.. which i liked, personally..

mine Tranny oil cooler was mounted using Rigth angle steel, and Strap steel mounted in many different locations.. and was VERY solid.. heh you could of used it as a STEP! the thing i hated the most was, that i had to use like less then a foot of 3/8" rubber hose


nothing to do with MN12s..but MMMM
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