After my friend making fun of me because during a burnout only one wheel will spin I didn't think anything of it.
Today, after bringing my girlfriend back to my house my car wouldn’t shift into whatever it shifts into when drifting to a stop light (not having the gas held in at all) and it felt like when you get it up in 1st and don’t shift into second and drift to a stop sign or something.
Now, I asked my dad to come help me out and see if he heard a problem, reverse was working fine, now it doesn’t work until 1.5k then it will jerk. Drive doesn’t like taking off at all until the same.
Now, we've got it up on stands and when in drive/reverse only the left hand side will spin, the right side wont spin at all (1st sentence up there) and so I don't think that's anything new but the car runs horrible now.
I've done my share of 1-2-D shifting but only in races, which is not often. I use D during daily driving.
Thank god I don't have to drive anywhere to my job (unless Rodney you decide that I have to relocate to Houston to work with you...in that case I'm screwed).
When it finally decides to spin, it kind of clunks up in the front by the transmission. My guess is that the flywheel/TQ is screwed.
After my friend making fun of me because during a burnout only one wheel will spin I didn't think anything of it.
Today, after bringing my girlfriend back to my house my car wouldn’t shift into whatever it shifts into when drifting to a stop light (not having the gas held in at all) and it felt like when you get it up in 1st and don’t shift into second and drift to a stop sign or something.
Now, I asked my dad to come help me out and see if he heard a problem, reverse was working fine, now it doesn’t work until 1.5k then it will jerk. Drive doesn’t like taking off at all until the same.
Now, we've got it up on stands and when in drive/reverse only the left hand side will spin, the right side wont spin at all (1st sentence up there) and so I don't think that's anything new but the car runs horrible now.
I've done my share of 1-2-D shifting but only in races, which is not often. I use D during daily driving.
Thank god I don't have to drive anywhere to my job (unless Rodney you decide that I have to relocate to Houston to work with you...in that case I'm screwed).
When it finally decides to spin, it kind of clunks up in the front by the transmission. My guess is that the flywheel/TQ is screwed.
Hmm...Let me remember...what was it that I was doing just 15 minutes before my transmission died? I think...yes...I was manual shifting. Don't do it unless you have a 99+ transmission or whatever year it was that they stopped sucking so much.
1) I don't manual shift all the time, only when racing, AND THATS NOT OFTEN.
2) I know it's a anchor, but that's what I was dealt with, I don't have that much money, if it was up to me I'd have a 5 Speed Supercoupe, but that's just not possible.
The transmission fluid was a bit over where it was supposed to be, but nothing critical.
How could I have blown the mounts like that, I can't really see them unless the cars on a lift right? I've got it out on stands right now with the rear wheels off.
P.S. I’ve learned my lesson about riding hard on this boat anchor, if I manage to get enough money for a new transmission it’ll be a nice billet one from SCP.
Define billet transmission? SCP gets his transmissions from Art Carr. Bill is a great guy to deal with. Art Carr doesn't impress me. I did however send a few people capable of building a J-spec 4r to him.
Alan
Art Carr EXTREME 4R70W Transmission
A COMPLETE brand new drop-in Transmission for the '94-97 Thunderbirds and Cougars. $300 core charge refunded when your old trans is returned.
This bad boy will handle anything you can throw at it. Built to handle way over 600 HP, it is the perfect trouble free electronically controlled transmission for your stock to highly modified supercharged motor. This transmission retains the factory lockup feature.
Includes the mechanical diode kit, a premium 2 1/4" OD band, billet intermediate stub shaft, 8-pack direct drum, Raybestos blue plate clutches, improved main pressure regulator valve, improved bypass clutch control valve, their valve body shift improver for better fluid flow and firmer shifts, and all the other high performance goodies Art Carr is known and respected for.
$2,125 + core
I'll say what I can say nicely. Epelezo you seriously need to read jerry's transmission article. It has very good information about these transmissions. I wouldn't want a rebuilt 94-95 unit. Honestly for the money I'd buy a 2003 unit from a mustang. Do a little repinning of the wiring harness,drill the seperator plate for firmer shifts, Replace the stock converter clutch and install a bearing in it, weld the snap ring on the reverse drum OWC(mechanical diode), and install.
I would say Art Carr is good at AOD transmissions. At least I have heard some good things.
I still think you don't need to manually shift a 4r. Set it up to shift the way you want on it's own. All the information is in the tech articles. Use them thats what they are there for. It may be alot of reading ,but you will definately learn something.
Alan
I had "going" out for 2 years and ignored it. Then one day I couldn't ignore it no more. The spring had broken into multiple pieces and wedged the 1-2 so it counldn't move.
$20.00 and i was finished. Of course I did the J-mod while in there and all was good but Eric wouldn't have to do that.
I think the 1-2 accumulator problems are about over. Very few cars left on the road have not been updated.
If you need a drum welded you could take it to a local welding shop and I'm sure they wouldn't charge much to do it. I can get you a pic if you want to show them what you want, but it's pretty self explanatory. Tell them I don't want that snap ring to come off give it 5 or 6 tacks. I use silicone braze so that if for some reason I want to take it off I can grind it easily with a dremel or air grinder.
Alan
I think the 1-2 accumulator problems are about over. Very few cars left on the road have not been updated.
If you need a drum welded you could take it to a local welding shop and I'm sure they wouldn't charge much to do it. I can get you a pic if you want to show them what you want, but it's pretty self explanatory. Tell them I don't want that snap ring to come off give it 5 or 6 tacks. I use silicone braze so that if for some reason I want to take it off I can grind it easily with a dremel or air grinder.
Alan
I think it sounds like the combination of a 94 slushbox and a 94 heap of a 12 inch converter. Brief description of problems on that particular year of converter.
1. Unbrazed unwelded fins are prone to seperating from the impeller(pump).
2. Plastic stator cap is prone to self destruction causing complete converter failure with serious transmission contamination.
3.Hollow turbine hub rivets can break and cause the splines not to connect to the internal components. AKA no movement.
4. flimsy, piece of junk lockup piston with a small clutch apply area and poor lining material. No matter what you do to the transmission or how smooth the engine runs they will shudder.
5. 12 inch 52lb rotten stinking paperweight. I collect them to use as cores when I need to return one. 11&1/4 converters weigh about 8lbs less give or take.
The wheels at the rear do not have anything to do with the trans. Unless they do not move at all.
Off the ground not running. Spin one wheel clockwise. Does the other wheel turn counter?
And over 1500 rpms it drives and shifts fine?
I would love to go with a 5 speed in our cars. But you do realize it takes a great deal of work.
I was talking about a mustang auto tranny. You could repin your connector(s), swap the tcc solenoid, and install a markVIII flexplate and it would be 200% better than the stock 94 unit already.
I mean, I'm up for the challenge I guess, as long as the moneys there . Actually, If it were up to me I'd keep automatic but I cant find a tranny around here.
No, it'll slip in and out of gear. I turned the wheel while my dad watched the spindle turned by hand, I dont know if his side turned or not, I know in D it wont turn on the right hand side at all, but the clunking noise still comes from the front end, could it be the rear?
I was talking about a mustang auto tranny. You could repin your connector(s), swap the tcc solenoid, and install a markVIII flexplate and it would be 200% better than the stock 94 unit already.
What year, how hard is it t oinstall the flexplate (where can I find one)? How hard is it to swap the TCC Solenoid (Where can I find one?) and repin the connectors just means resoldering wires right? How do I know which ones go where?
I mean, I'm up for the challenge I guess, as long as the moneys there . Actually, If it were up to me I'd keep automatic but I cant find a tranny around here.
No, it'll slip in and out of gear. I turned the wheel while my dad watched the spindle turned by hand, I dont know if his side turned or not, I know in D it wont turn on the right hand side at all, but the clunking noise still comes from the front end, could it be the rear?
We should see if in fact the tranny is the culprit.
Clunking could be u-joints. Again. If it is off the ground the drivetrain will make many funny (not) sounds. But check the wheels off the ground. Turned by hand they should either spin both the same way or opposite. Not just one.
And this is a dumb question. You checked the fluid idling in neutral? I am not sure if they still recommend in neutral but it is in my opinion a good idea.
Flexplates are pretty easy to find at salvage yards. Look it over before you buy it if it has bad teeth send it back.
The tcc solenoid is easy to change. Silver95bird did a nice write up on the whole deal. http://www.personal.psu.edu/tfg112/tbird/article/swap1.pdf
We should see if in fact the tranny is the culprit.
Clunking could be u-joints. Again. If it is off the ground the drivetrain will make many funny (not) sounds. But check the wheels off the ground. Turned by hand they should either spin both the same way or opposite. Not just one.
And this is a dumb question. You checked the fluid idling in neutral? I am not sure if they still recommend in neutral but it is in my opinion a good idea.
The car wont even move until I hit 1.5k rpms but a little, would the U-Joints seriously cause that? I'll check the wheels tomorrow morning but how do I see the other wheel if I am on the other side
The car wont even move until I hit 1.5k rpms but a little, would the U-Joints seriously cause that? I'll check the wheels tomorrow morning but how do I see the other wheel if I am on the other side
But I have had Torque Converters die and they died. There was no going when they went out. So fluid sounds like a problem. How did you check the fluid?
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