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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Tranny EXPLODED

Yeah well after i get the 3rd tranny in the car im going to be looking elsewere..i cant deal with this car anymore, its costing me too much to keep it alive, the tranny was rebuilt a year ago, and it blew apart today, and the best part is the warentee was up last month, how convient for them,

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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 02:42 PM
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Performance Automatic Valve Body

^ Just what is that ?

What year tranny is it?
Did it have upgraded components?

What exactly was the "Performance Automatic Valve Body" ??

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 02:43 PM
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performance automatic is an overpriced modified valvebody.

They are a company.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 02:49 PM
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get a reman in a box , dont have someone hand build one agian. better warranty

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 04:06 PM
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If you have the right person rebuild it you will get a MUCH better tranny than anything you will get from a Ford reman. But, most people don't want to do that for some reason. They want to go to a local tranny shop and get mediocre quality and workmanship and pay too much. Or, they want to get a Ford reman and get the same mediocre quality and still pay more than they should.
I can build a tranny with all the updates and enhancements short of the 5.4 hard parts and modify the valve body for less than that Ford reman and mine will hold up. There are several people around who can do the same. Machining clutch pistons to add plates will break that price point and adding the 5.4 parts would be more still. Most people here would never in a million years need either of those things done to a tranny.
That Ford reman will have a mechanical diode, but if you get in there to do anything to keep the snap ring in place or modify the valve body, forget your warranty. With a tranny from someone who knows what they are doing, you will not have to do any of that. It will be built for you and your needs. You will get the tranny you want shipped to you and all you have to do is bolt it in. In my case, if you live within reasonable range, installation is available and strongly advised.
Always, always, always use a good tranny cooler whatever you do.

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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 04:21 PM
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i understand that, but for 3 trannys hes better off,

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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 04:23 PM
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the troublesome snap ring is directly behind the front pump. it is not difficult to change out if you've got the proper puller.


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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 04:49 PM
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I agree that it is exactly as you say, but you just go ahead and weld that and see what happens with your warranty.
Anything short of welding it isn't any better than just leaving it as is in my opinion.

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 05:15 PM
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Could always put a stick in it...

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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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well heres the problem, i cant wait to get the tranny in, its my everyday car and i got finals comming up, and no other way to school, also the tranny shop that i went to is suppose to be one of the best, and i guess either the first one i got rebuilt was done horrible or my heavy foot destroyed it, i doubt that though cause the original tranny had it *** kicked from pillar to post for 112k miles then it died out, and with the valvebody in and the tranny cooler you would think the tranny would last more than a year

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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 06:51 PM
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I wouldn't have used that valve body, but that is just me. If it was built properly, no heavy foot would have killed it in anything short of a radical bird. Unless you were doing flat stupid stuff like 5 grand neutral drops and/or slamming it into reverse on the freeway. Or maybe the tranny had a defective part. It does happen.
Sorry to hear about the problems and I hope you get it straightened out and have much better luck this time.

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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well i had a transbroke kit in when it got rebuilt in the first place a year ago, and it kept slipping 1-2 for almost a year and each time i took it back they said it was fixed, i got the PA valvebody and i coulndt be happier, it was finally working the way it should, and that was like a month ago, maybe 2 months, and today i went to merge and it had trouble getting into 2nd, then it coulndt hold 3rd then finally went in and it would hardly move, then as i slowed down it would shutter like crazy and almost stall, i had to manually shift to 2nd and keep it in 2nd to the shop, did like 20 the whole way there from my house which is like a min away, i think that the tranny had a problem from the begining,

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 08:43 PM
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I just think it isn't coincidental that everyone that I have heard of using anything other than a j-mod on a 4r70w daily driver has had a tranny die a very untimely death.
Just food for thought

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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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well from what i have read on here the vb is the same as the jmod just paying for the whole thing insted of doing it yourself, i just find it very convient that the warentee ended last month on the tranny and it died today

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 2vmodular
the troublesome snap ring is directly behind the front pump. it is not difficult to change out if you've got the proper puller.

In this picture...what is the "snap ring" you folks talk about welding? and why is that a good idea?

I have a 98 Mustang GT tranny now, and it has been JMOD'd, along with other goodies inside...but I am pretty sure the snap ring thingy is untouched.

Like our good freind Tbirdsims, I rely on my car as a daily driver as well. I am thrilled beyond words with my new tranny, but if there is something slese I shoudl do to make it as duable as possible, without re-tearing it down, I'd love to know what/how.

Enlightne me, if you will.

p.s. In this pic(above), it appears there is a crack in the bottom of the internals...not the bellhousing, but the shaft/gear assemblies. Am I seeing things, or is this the result of a non-welded snap-ring thingy?
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-15-2004, 11:30 PM
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I don't see a crack I think you are seeing things
The snap ring gets welded because it is prone to spreading out and allowing the one-way to come apart, or in the case of the m/d off. The snap ring is thin and not very strong. Welding it prevents it from spreading out so it cannot come off.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-16-2004, 10:21 AM
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FYI- The green outlined part is the snap ring


And Alan can do the welding for you on this. Mine looks great. Now I just have to get it all back together and into my bird, lol... After the body work

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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-16-2004, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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just got back from the shop, the guy said "what the hell did you do to my transmission" he said the 2-3 sprag was completly destroyed, and there were peices in the vb, i told him that the 2-3 shift wasnt hard or anything and dont know why it would do that, but he said hes gonna fix it cause of my main mechanic and then im on my own, even though the warentee ended last month, might be getting it back today.

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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-16-2004, 12:10 PM
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Maybe if he had built it properly the first time that wouldn't have happened. Do yourself a favor go down to ford pick up a reverse drum, mechanical diode and a snap ring from a late model unit and have him use it. Otherwise you'll end up with a 7 element piece of crap.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-16-2004, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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if i had the money and the time i would, its gonna be finished today, im acutally supprised he is doing it for free and im not gonna push my luck with it

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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-16-2004, 01:12 PM
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That wasn't your fault you know. He should do it for free and then apologize for the trouble that you have gone through at the very least.

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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-16-2004, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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yeah well i feel like when i get it he may rig the car with explosives, ive been back so many times its not even funny, but even still, i think im going to keep the bird, save up for a nice truck, and then take it off the road and over time turn it into a monster of a car. that is when i get a good paying job or hit the mega millions!

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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-20-2004, 02:37 PM
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If you put the roller OWC back in.....get the updated snaprings....if not, you and Mr. Tranny will have another talk soon.

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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-20-2004, 07:42 PM
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It won't matter if it is a 7 element it will fail anyway. The 14 element is strong but it has rpm limits. I currently have a 14 element in my car with the snap ring welded in place. I'm not worried about it because I never cross 5500.
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-28-2004, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up

Well, got the car back on wed, sorry i havent been on to re-post but when you dont have a car x-mas shoppin is that much more difficult, well the guy repaired it for free, and i have to say, its feels very strong, 2-3 is a bit harder and feels more solid then when it was originally rebuilt, so this can only lead me to conclude that the tranny was not rebuilt properly in the first place. and i must add that i LOVE the new set up here! looks all XPish

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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-31-2004, 10:11 AM
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Hmm, so does the M/D have RPM limits also, or is it okay to run it to 6500 engine RPM? Not that I rev that high now, but if I ever build the motor back up, or get one that's capable of doing so, it'd be nice to know that my M/D is gonna hold together. Also, I did not do the snap-ring change/welding mod, so what causes the OEM ring to spread out and come off? Just normal driving, high RPMs, or what?
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