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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-24-2005, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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Specific Question for J-Mod experts

I'm J-Modding my transmission for my project car.
Its a 96 police 4r70w (with 500 miles on it) going behind a MarkVIII engine with cobra intake, mid-length headers, and it also has a ford 9", with 4.11 gears.

I plan on supercharging later, so I'm building the trans to the 300-450hp spec.
In addition to the j-mod, I'm doing the tailshaft lube, adding clutches, and putting in a better intermediate shaft. I got everything I need from D.R. as a package.

Here's the question(s)...

I've got the seperator plate out, no problem; but in addition to the drill bits and gaskets, there were also some included parts and instructions (from Art Carr) to

(A). Install a small plug in the valve body near the 1-2 accumulator.
(B). Replace the stock pressure regulator spring with a new purple one.

Are either of these good ideas? Otherwise the seperator plate drilling instructions match the J-Mod instructions posted here exactly.

Also, seeing I have the 96 police tranny, is the one way (14 roller?) clutch strong enough, or do I need the mechanical diode? Due to the width of wheels (traction), and wanting to use a KB twin screw supercharger (no intercooler), I doubt I'll ever go over 400HP.

P.S. I've also putting in a P.I. 3500 stall converter, with lockup.

Thanks.

Last edited by 57TBird; 02-24-2005 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Forgot one thing...
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-24-2005, 10:37 PM
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You need to do some serious reading here.
Start here
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=56523
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=50811
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=58997

There are many more threads you should see ,but those will get you started.
You really should build a later model transmission.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-24-2005, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57TBird
I'm J-Modding my transmission for my project car.
Its a 96 police 4r70w (with 500 miles on it) going behind a MarkVIII engine with cobra intake, mid-length headers, and it also has a ford 9", with 4.11 gears.

I plan on supercharging later, so I'm building the trans to the 300-450hp spec.
In addition to the j-mod, I'm doing the tailshaft lube, adding clutches, and putting in a better intermediate shaft. I got everything I need from D.R. as a package.

Here's the question(s)...

I've got the seperator plate out, no problem; but in addition to the drill bits and gaskets, there were also some included parts and instructions (from Art Carr) to

(A). Install a small plug in the valve body near the 1-2 accumulator.
(B). Replace the stock pressure regulator spring with a new purple one.

Are either of these good ideas? Otherwise the seperator plate drilling instructions match the J-Mod instructions posted here exactly.

Also, seeing I have the 96 police tranny, is the one way (14 roller?) clutch strong enough, or do I need the mechanical diode? Due to the width of wheels (traction), and wanting to use a KB twin screw supercharger (no intercooler), I doubt I'll ever go over 400HP.

P.S. I've also putting in a P.I. 3500 stall converter, with lockup.

Thanks.
DR... *shudder* I'm not touching that with a 10 foot pole. Good luck with that.


Check to make sure the output shaft and housing are the same length as your MarkVIII trans before you install the trans. Police trannies are known to have a different (longer) setup that may not work with your driveshaft.

Skip A and B. Got to the main tccoa page, read chapters 13 and 14 of the OD 101 article. This is a much better solution.
Definitely buy a mechanical diode OWC and drum. I wouldn't install anything less in any rebuilt 4R70W.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-25-2005, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the feedback. I'll definitely skip A and B, and just drill the seperator plate to 96 specs. I'm trying to use the 96 trans because...

1.) It was free.
2.) It had only 500 miles (out of wrecked 96 crown vic police car)
3.) Should work with 93 or 94 Mark VIII computer with no issues or wiring changes, plus the MLPS is the red gasket one.
4.) The 1" longer ext. housing fits my application perfectly (57 TBird) and allows use of a shorter stock 57 driveshaft.

I bought the kit from DR almost a year ago. At the time, I didn't know about this site, plus I admit I hadn't done enough research on the subject.

Also, the PI converter is a 3 disk, that was bought seperately, off ebay

In going through the kit I received, I seem to have all the bands, clutches, bearings, and seals. I have all the hardware for the tailshaft lube. I have the hardened intermediate shaft. I also have all the gaskets, plus the Art Carr instructions for drilling out the seperator plate, plus those extra parts (spring and plug from my original post) that I won't use. I also have the accumulators (the good ones), but no new springs. Cost from DR was under $500. Did I get ripped?

Looks like if I still want to use the 96 trans I'll still need to get a MD, and possibly springs for the accumulators.

Once I get the transmission completely dissassembled, I'll lay all the old and new parts side by side, and use the Trans 101 and Building a Bulitproof 4r70w articles to see what else is missing.

Let me rephrase the question. Assuming I would like to stay with the 96 trans. What else do I need, other than the MD and springs mentioned above (and of course a large plate-style tranny cooler) to support 400 HP?

Last edited by 57TBird; 02-25-2005 at 07:51 AM. Reason: misspelling
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-25-2005, 08:20 AM
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An intermediate clutch spiral retaining ring kit. Replaces the weak snap ring that is prone to fail in the 4r70w.

You can get it at http://www.bulkpart.com/
Part # 27470 I believe is the correct one.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-25-2005, 11:19 AM
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That police transmission is too long you will have to change the output shaft and extension housing. You want an output shaft from a 98 markVIII.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-27-2005, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ext housing

Actually, the long extension housing is just right (for a 1957 TBird). I measured everything up from the transmission mounts, and the stock driveshaft will work perfectly with the longer police extension housing. The Mark VIII extension housing will be about 1" too short, requiring a custom driveshaft. I figure that the shorter the driveshaft, the less chance of vibration with 4.11 gears = more drivetrain stability.

Are there inherent weaknesses to using the longer extension housing, vs. the shorter one, for the 300-450 HP level?

Thanks again everyone for the feedback. As soon as I can get another slide hammer, I'll get the front pump out, take the rest apart, and take inventory of what I still need.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-27-2005, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57TBird
In going through the kit I received, I seem to have all the bands, clutches, bearings, and seals. I have all the hardware for the tailshaft lube. I have the hardened intermediate shaft. I also have all the gaskets, plus the Art Carr instructions for drilling out the seperator plate, plus those extra parts (spring and plug from my original post) that I won't use. I also have the accumulators (the good ones), but no new springs. Cost from DR was under $500. Did I get ripped?

Looks like if I still want to use the 96 trans I'll still need to get a MD, and possibly springs for the accumulators.

Let me rephrase the question. Assuming I would like to stay with the 96 trans. What else do I need, other than the MD and springs mentioned above (and of course a large plate-style tranny cooler) to support 400 HP?
Yes,for $500-I can buy a core, rebuild it with all new steels, clutches, bands, accumulators, gaskets, seals, solenoids, filter and fluid.
Plus,that Art Crap kit uses those damned alto clutches-bad idea.
You'll need a reverse drum,reverse drum piston,and the MD.These pieces cost almost $150.
You also really need a '99-up valve body for that trans to perform properly.There are alot of fluid improvements,and also calibation changes in the pressure regulator springs that the '96 does not have,and the longer output shaft of that police unit is weaker.
JL

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-27-2005, 05:05 PM
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i got a ? what happens if u do the J-mod for my horse power than what u got now. what will happen. cuz i plan on doing alot to my car but one of the first things thats gettin work done is the trans.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-27-2005, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderchicken17
i got a ? what happens if u do the J-mod for my horse power than what u got now. what will happen. cuz i plan on doing alot to my car but one of the first things thats gettin work done is the trans.
Just be realistic...if you're not gonna put down 450,then don't drill it to that unless you have a really loose converter.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-27-2005, 05:15 PM
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well ya i understand that i was going to do the 300-350 one thats were i want to end up but i dont have that much hp yet, i was wonting to know the effect if any

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-27-2005, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderchicken17
well ya i understand that i was going to do the 300-350 one thats were i want to end up but i dont have that much hp yet, i was wonting to know the effect if any
It'll just be a bit firmer...not much more.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-27-2005, 05:47 PM
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what do u mean by firmer. shifts

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-27-2005, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thunderchicken17
what do u mean by firmer. shifts
Yep,that's it...
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