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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-18-2006, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Diff rebuild or new carrier?

Does anyone know what an average cost would be to have a diff rebuilt? same gears and everything, just new internals?

or would it be cheaper to buy a trac-lok carrier and have that installed?

Im looking to get my diff rebuilt and a new aluminum one piece drive shaft put in. Since I have a BAD vibration and the car could use the upgrade anyway.

mg

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-18-2006, 02:34 PM
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I generally charge $250 to set up one of these plus the labor to install it. If you do not have a traction lok carrier you need it anyway,but still you will have to have the rear built. The carrier is not the entire diff.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-18-2006, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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I'd be taking it out and installing it myself, It is a T-lok unit itself... just needs to be rebuilt. 250 you say? wow... I was thinking along the 150-175 line.

thank you though, now I know what to expect.

MG

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-18-2006, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
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250 you say? wow... I was thinking along the 150-175 line.
$250 is actually a pretty good price. Most shops around here charge quite a bit more than that.

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 06:37 AM
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yeah shops can be nuts on this stuff I have heard quotes up to $600 to rebuild them, thats not including install or parts.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 12:21 PM
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i paid 350 i think for mine rebuild with 3.73s and trac lock.. installed

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyd0g
I generally charge $250 to set up one of these plus the labor to install it. If you do not have a traction lok carrier you need it anyway,but still you will have to have the rear built. The carrier is not the entire diff.
Alan

Quote:
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yeah shops can be nuts on this stuff I have heard quotes up to $600 to rebuild them, thats not including install or parts.
Alan
Just for future reference. What does the customer get for $250? It sounds as if at least some parts are included. I may be needing your services soon.

Thanks,
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 07:11 PM
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$250 covers assembly lubes and silicone to seal the case all bearings,seals,clutches or hard parts are not included. I will however machine mustang sidegears if needed. Basically the $250 covers all of the time spent cleaning the housing and soap required there (gear oil will make a nice parts washer stink quickly). The time spent setting up the pinion depth backlash and side spacing is what is to be considered not to mention rebuilding the traction lock clutches which I can and often stack to 4 plates per side instead of 3.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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ok so how do i know if mine is in need of being rebuilt? I talked to all the guys I could track down at work and there had no idea.

anyone?

MG

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 07:53 PM
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is it noisy?

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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no, well....

See I have this BAD vibration... over 50 it shakes the whole car like its gonna fall apart. And in doing so I really cant hear it.

Although when I jacked up the rear end and pulled the tires off... had my wife bring the car up to speed while I was under it (scary stuff) .... The diff didnt seem to be the sorce of the vibration nor was I able to hear any "unusual" noise from the diff itself.

I could lay my finger on the drive shaft while it was runnin at 50-55mph and it would vibrate my finger pretty good (about 1/4+ an inch in movment).

whaddya think?

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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 08:03 PM
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That could be a bad pinion bearing,rear trans bushing or driveshaft.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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how would I diag that? Im going to get a mark aluminum shaft in a couple days anyway... thats one diag out of the way.

I assume the rear trans bushing is the big hydro mount ?

what is a pinion bearing?

MG

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 08:28 PM
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The pinion bearing is inside the differential behind the flange.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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is there a way to diag that to see if its the culprit?

(without tearing into it?)

MG

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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 08:41 PM
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check for endplay at the differential. The bushing I am talking about is where the yoke goes into the transmission. A leak usually is a telltale sign of that the same goes for the differential.
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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I just crawled under there to look again, I have no leaks... actually everything is bone dry... and looks like the day I installed it.

More and more im starting to think its that damn drive shaft. That might be the reason who ever I bought it from on here sold it.

Thanks so much for the info Alan... You just provided me with more information than 5 tech could and my DEALERSHIP! (scary thought).

Thanks again for the info and patience... I REALLY appreciate it.

MG

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 09:40 PM
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Sorry to change the topic, bu I have to...

Garret..... Wife?!?!??!?

math > pasta
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2006, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Well The date is set and I have grown very tierd over these past three years of saying "FIANCE"... It sounds so snobb-ish to me...

So i figure its close enough now

MG

(well 2 1/2 going on three)

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Last edited by MadGoat; 06-19-2006 at 10:16 PM.
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2006, 01:54 AM
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I'll accept that as an answer. Grats! When we all get together again, dinners on me.

math > pasta
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2006, 03:56 AM
 
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hey what makes a trak-lok better then a open rear end and how do you know if you have one.
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2006, 07:21 AM
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Traction lok will turn both wheels, open will turn whichever one has the leaset traction. There is a tag on the top cover bolt of your differential. Chances are you have an open,but if the tag says 3L27 in it you have a traction lok. Most of these diff are 308 so they will not have the L in them.
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2006, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyd0g
$250 covers assembly lubes and silicone to seal the case all bearings,seals,clutches or hard parts are not included. I will however machine mustang sidegears if needed. Basically the $250 covers all of the time spent cleaning the housing and soap required there (gear oil will make a nice parts washer stink quickly). The time spent setting up the pinion depth backlash and side spacing is what is to be considered not to mention rebuilding the traction lock clutches which I can and often stack to 4 plates per side instead of 3.
Alan
Thank you,
Rob

02 AL PI 4.6L, 02 GT MAF and air box, SCT tune by lonnie.
2.25" true duals, no cats, Borla XS mufflers.
96 trans with 300HP + gear change J-mod, Mark VIII TC, & Hayden 30K GVW cooler.
Solid Rubber engine and tranny mounts. Polly front-end, tranny crossmember, and IRS bushings.
3.73 TL, 93 Mark VIII DS. Tokico Blues all around.
PBR dual piston calipers in front, Rear Disc Brake Swap.
97 console. Cooper 225/60/16s.
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2006, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StupidFly
I'll accept that as an answer. Grats! When we all get together again, dinners on me.

ummm I dont think so,

Some very shine wheels on my car say that dinners on me!

MG

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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2006, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadGoat
ummm I dont think so,

Some very shine wheels on my car say that dinners on me!

MG

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math > pasta
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