In the middle of a project, need some help... - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-04-2006, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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In the middle of a project, need some help...

Well my ignition cylinder broke on me 2 weeks ago, so my car is back on jackstands. This project onset earlier than planned, but it is going along well so far.

Things I am replacing/installing:

Mild Jspec Tranny
GP driveshaft
3.73 True Track Differential
Tranny cooler
255 LPH HP fuel pump
Solid rubber motor/tranny mounts
new trans crossmember
new torque converter
and a whole lot more


Questions I have

-Torque converter installation?
What is involved with this? It is a 04 marauder t/c, so if it doesnt have a t/c fluid plug, what do I do about priming the t/c with merconV before initial start?

-Differential R+R
got the exhaust down, and the d/s and tank out, so how do I disconnect the diff from the half axles?

-Engine and trans removal together

is it possible to do this in the garage? Will I need to lift the front of the car, or is there enough clearance already? Any other tips?

Driveshaft install
since I am installing new trans, diff, and d/s, I dont have factory index marks. Will I need the new drivetrain professionally balanced?

Thanks for any help
Sean

All Glory to God!

RIP JOHNNY LANGTON

96 LX PI/Jspec Pearl White. She enjoys eating ricers for breakfast
-MODS-
2002 PI 4.6L - Jspec Trans built by Darrin - 04 Marauder converter - Hayden 679 Trans cooler - Engine cooling modification - SCT Xcal2, tuned by Lonnie - 02 GT MAF and 99 GT Intake tube - removed silencer - 255 lph HP fuel pump - Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 TL - 245/60/15 BFGoodrich Radial T/A's - PBR front brakes - SCP Rear torsional load brace - SCP Solid rubber motor, transmission mounts - Rear Strut Tower brace and Diff cover brace by Rod
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 07:41 AM
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the GP driveshaft i believe is already balanced, so you should be ok there.

removal of train is your call, but it is easiest to put back together as one whole unit

you will need to have the front of the car at LEAST 16-20" off the ground (at the jack stands). you'll need a big set of stands..the 6 tons

the halfshafts pull out like CVs.. i think you may have to pick a side to remove the hub, but i don't remember


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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96_LX

-Engine and trans removal together

is it possible to do this in the garage? Will I need to lift the front of the car, or is there enough clearance already? Any other tips?
Sean
Your question about lifting the front of the car...Are you thinking of taking it out through the bottom?
The engine/tranny assembly comes out pretty easily through the top. I did it this way in my driveway. It actually helps to raise the back of the car, not the front. A load leveler is a necessity to allow you to tilt the assembly while its hanging from the hoist. Also, it's easier to assemble the transmission to the engine while it's out of the car, and install it as a unit.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Tobey,I was planning on pulling it from the top, I don't like the idea of having to realign the subframe...so I just raise the rear of the car and leave the front on the ground? I was planning on using a load leveler, it helped a lot when removing the motor before. Thanks for the tips. Now my major question left is the t/c install, does it just slide on or do I need a tool?

All Glory to God!

RIP JOHNNY LANGTON

96 LX PI/Jspec Pearl White. She enjoys eating ricers for breakfast
-MODS-
2002 PI 4.6L - Jspec Trans built by Darrin - 04 Marauder converter - Hayden 679 Trans cooler - Engine cooling modification - SCT Xcal2, tuned by Lonnie - 02 GT MAF and 99 GT Intake tube - removed silencer - 255 lph HP fuel pump - Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 TL - 245/60/15 BFGoodrich Radial T/A's - PBR front brakes - SCP Rear torsional load brace - SCP Solid rubber motor, transmission mounts - Rear Strut Tower brace and Diff cover brace by Rod
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 11:26 PM
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The torque converter slides on. Turn it as you are pushing it on to the trans. You should hear and feel it click in three times. If you want to "prime" it just dump a quart of merc in it before you slide it on. I don't recall if I did that to mine. I'm thinking not.

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Last edited by Al_Florida; 07-05-2006 at 11:33 PM.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-05-2006, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96_LX
-Differential R+R
got the exhaust down, and the d/s and tank out, so how do I disconnect the diff from the half axles?
Pry the axle out of the diff. I use a large flat pry bar. You can also use a couple of large screwdrivers.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-06-2006, 09:57 PM
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Oh that diff is easy. Take off your rear wheel on one side (I did right side) and remove the brake caliper and rotor. Unbolt the suspension arms from the knuckle/hub and remove the entire hub/axle assembly from the car.

Now remove the bolts on the mounts and driveshaft, and slide the diff over and off the remaining axle.
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