Originally Posted by SilverFox
The wide ratio upgrade is pretty common anymore.....Ford sells the kit to do it for $650. ALthough, you can somtimes get a better trans for cheaper by just purchasing a good core from a yard.
You will want 1998+ units with the mechanical diode though.
The swap into the AOD is simple as putting the stuff in. I suggest you use the ENTIRE 4R70W gear train - but use the AOD stamped steel forward drum and input shaft, and you have to keep the AOD tailshaft as well due to governor use.
The swap will also net you 2" band, 4 clutch intermediate, stamped steel drums, more clutch capacity, stronger planet and internals, along with the mechanical diode.
If you want to PEICE it together the cheap rout, all you really need for the swap is the 4R70W 38 tooth sun shell, 31 tooth sun gear, planet, ring gear, ring gear hub, dirrect drum, dirrect drum race, #8 and #9 4R bearing and selective pump washer kit.
The #9 has 2 differnt styles - 1 race and 2 race. The thick 4R hub will require the thin bearing and the thin hub needs the thick bearing.
I am sure you could possinly get by with a combo of AOD bearings, but I have not tried - use the slectives to set endplay tight.
I would like to add that your AOD will hold 300 HP quite easy and with 4.10 or deeper gears the AOD gear set is very nice!
Thanks for the detailed response. This guy was recommended to me locally and is a guy here in Florida, not far from my daughter, offering a package that sounds similar. Not big on Ebay but this would give me a good excuse to go bother my daughter and go look at his shop. Sounds like he is putting everything in. Could you take a look for me please?
I am looking to offset higher gears as I want this car for the road but I also want to have a fair amount of power in town. My thought is I would have a launch equivilant with 3:70's while runing 3:27's over the stock AOD. I currently have TracLok 3:08's from the factory which would put me in the 3:50 area. Build plans besides the True Duals, JBA's, and K&N fenderwell air supply, include AFR 165 heads and an Edelbrock Performer EFI, and a switch chip from Lonnie so I can run multiple grade fuels. That's it! Not going to be a 1/4 machine. Best combination (50/50) mileage to date is just shy of 25mpg. Excluding the fenderwell K&N (installed while replacing front suspension) This is bone stock thru 3 cats, a resonator and 2 mufflers.
My reasons for building the car as a road car are strong enough to think I won't be wasting my money on the trans ratio change instead of just lower rear gears.
I work at home 75% of the time (foreign exchange trader) and my other business I work out of a truck parked just 6 miles from home. I travel to Miami (300 miles-daughter), Alabama (600 miles-son [for another year-then 120 miles to Central Florida], and soon North Carolina (600 miles - brother [currently 75 miles]) and as I can work from anywhere with Internet access just carrying my laptop and 2nd monitor, I really have a strong need for a road machine. I started planning this car after driving my brothers 5.0 Tbird a couple of years ago (recently semi-retired to father-in-law at 250k). Car is still averaging over 21mpg and runs "very" strong.
With my brother's intimate knowledge of the car and the fact he is ans ASE certified mechanic who is an insurance adjuster for extended automotive, marine, and motorcycle warranty policies, I take his word for it that this can be the last car I buy. Finding it was the tough thing. I must have looked at 50 of them over 18months. Now I want to build to my needs and desires. This club and members like you have really helped me.