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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-31-2006, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
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96 Mark Vibration

ok so at work rescently, we have had a 96 mark in with a bad vibration. replaced the motor mounts on the car because they where really bad, vibration got better, but now seemed to move more rearward. its really pronounced when above 70. everything in the rear is good, im thinking its a DS but the one tech isnt sure about that. anyone had a similar occurence, and if so what fixed it? its a rythmic vibration that only changes with speed

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-31-2006, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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o and its 100% not the tires, and the car has 42k on it

1995 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 LX - SC wheels, enlarged rear sway bar, full sound system, cut mufflers, PST 1 1/8" rear bar, Eibachs, Mark 8 LCA's, Al housed 3.55 gearset, cut mufflers
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-31-2006, 06:40 AM
 
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It's the DS

Yep, It's the driveshaft. The worst problem these cars have. I have a '97 LSC. 94-98 use a two piece shaft that goes out of balance as the car gets older and causes the vibration. It happens @70 mph and you will notice your rear view mirror vibrating so bad you can't see what's behind you. 93s have a one piece shaft and will fit. I replaced mine with a 93 but the problem got worse. There is a racing shaft available from reinhart automotive but be prepared to shell out $500. I'm still saving for one.

The MMX shaft is the cure. You can try to hunt down a 93 at the junkies but I had no luck with making a junk part work.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-31-2006, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George B
Yep, It's the driveshaft. The worst problem these cars have. I have a '97 LSC. 94-98 use a two piece shaft that goes out of balance as the car gets older and causes the vibration. It happens @70 mph and you will notice your rear view mirror vibrating so bad you can't see what's behind you. 93s have a one piece shaft and will fit. I replaced mine with a 93 but the problem got worse. There is a racing shaft available from reinhart automotive but be prepared to shell out $500. I'm still saving for one.

The MMX shaft is the cure. You can try to hunt down a 93 at the junkies but I had no luck with making a junk part work.

Don't get it from him, go directly to the source, save yourself some cash and maybe a few headaches.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-31-2006, 10:19 PM
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FWIW, I put in a MMx driveshaft in my '93 when I went to 4.10s. I now have 4.30s and it is smooth as glass still.

I sold my 1 piece shaft to a Gen2 owner and it cured his vibration problem.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-01-2006, 03:37 PM
 
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MMX Driveshaft

I called the manufacturer Dynotech and he quoted me $520. about $40 more than Reinhart. Dennis claims he makes very little on this part.

There is a second distributor supercouperformance.com, they're a little less but not by much.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-01-2006, 04:29 PM
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George,

Check these guys out, I've heard from other members that they're pretty good.

Denny's Driveshafts

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-01-2006, 04:43 PM
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guys you don't need an expensive aluminum shaft, you can get a steel one made in alot of shops for like 200 bucks.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-01-2006, 11:23 PM
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Supercoupeperformance has 2 shafts, either of which will work for you just fine. One is $360 and the other is $470..seems like a better deal to me,but I wouldn't Give (insert foul name here) a dime.
I believe splitportbird found a really good deal in indiana, do some searching on him he gave out the info.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-02-2006, 12:07 AM
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I believe splitportbird found a really good deal in indiana, do some searching on him he gave out the info.
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.p...ght=driveshaft

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2006, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinH
guys you don't need an expensive aluminum shaft, you can get a steel one made in alot of shops for like 200 bucks.
my buddy did that, the shaft was smoother then stock, but also heavyer, a little bit of power loss

1995 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 LX - SC wheels, enlarged rear sway bar, full sound system, cut mufflers, PST 1 1/8" rear bar, Eibachs, Mark 8 LCA's, Al housed 3.55 gearset, cut mufflers
2011 BMX X5 Xdrive50i - BMS Stage 1, Cut Muffler
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L-Her stock DD
1984 Ford F250 6.9 IDIT - head studs in progress
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2006, 02:30 PM
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George,

Check these guys out, I've heard from other members that they're pretty good.

Denny's Driveshafts

Joe
I’m definitely going with them if I decide to go with an aluminum driveshaft. They can balance to 10,000 rpm which most places cant. Even though most places can balance to 6000 rpm, that’s only good till ~112mph with 4.11 gears and 26" tall tires. And that mph will be less with more gear or smaller tires. That would get you through the 1/4 mile fine but if you wanted to check the top end of your car (in a closed course place) then you’re probably gonna feel the vibes still.

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