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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
 
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Confused on terms

I have been looking over many things regarding my troubles, and I have been throwing around the term "converter shudder". I looked on this page http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/ and there it deems that shudder as only occurring when shifting. I am experiencing it in 4th gear when cruising (about 70 mph, at 80 its unbearable and I have to slow down). I thought that was what shudder was, but after looking at the page I am not sure anymore. I don't want to bring it to a shop and get ripped off or anything, and I know enough to do it myself, except this is a DD, so I don't have the time to do it, thus taking it somewhere. I have always had bad experiences with transmission specific shops, and unfortunately I cannot afford to take it to the dealership. I want the quality, but can't bone the cash for it. Is she toast or is there hope? What is that "shudder" I am experiencing? Is it a sign that the trans is on its way out?

Any Ideas or suggestions are helpful.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 09:35 AM
 
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Sounds like you have a "vibration". I would think that a shudder is momentary and a vibration is continuous.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 10:36 AM
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If it is caused by speed only, then it is likely someplace else, the driveshaft, rear end, an axle, a hub, a wheel bearing, a tire or a rim.

When this is happening, if you lightly tap the brake (not enough to engage them, but enough to turn on the brake lights) and it still happens, then it is not torque converter shudder (watch the tach, it should go up about 300 RPMS when you tap the brake, the TC unlocking).

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 11:46 AM
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Speed sensitive vibration that comes and goes (IE starts at 55 ends at 62) is usually a tire. The driveshaft just continue to get worse and worse the faster you go.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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when i even release the accel pedal, the vibration goes away. Could be tires, these things are beat to hell. I'm replacing the fluid and filter. Should I use the retarded cork gasket that comes with the filter? Or would it be alright to use rtv and get away with just that?
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 12:46 PM
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you should have a re-usable gasket on there.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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also im draining the converter, as well. when i refill the tranny will the converter fill?
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 02:53 PM
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Yes, you just refill the tranny when you drain the converter.

I have like 15 of the cork gaskets for the 4R70W. When my 2000 Grand Marquis was in an accident, they replaced the pan and I was hoping they replaced the gasket with another reuable one, and they did...too bad they didn't reseat the dipstick tube OR the filter (which was also broken) so I had the replace the filter and fluid anyways (something like 14 quarts + 8 when they did the pan only + 8 when did the pan only = 30 some odd quarts at 4 bucks a quart in around 200 miles).

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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yea. I did it. Helped a TON. I suggest this to anyone having problems. Bad thing though: I was hoping it was the gasket that was causing the leak i was having, but it is between the (tailshaft housing?) and the main control housing. I tightened the bolts, but to no evail. It could be residual oil left over from the pan gasket leaking all over everything. Also, i noticed a smal ammount of oil near the rear seal at the driveshaft. 140,000 miles, i got my money's worth. I bought the car in 2003 for $2000 bux. Is it easy to replace those seals? It looks like it, and while i have the driveshaft off, i might as well replace both. The pump seal is fine, no fluid in the bell housing. Also it smokes, but there is a ton of oil all over the exhaust so I think thats where the smoke is coming from. Smells like curry .
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
 
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A last thought on this: I tightened the bolts a little at where the "tailshaft" (i am hoping this is what it is called) and the main control housing meet, and after two hours, there are maybe 8 drops. The spot is smaller than about a baseball. I would like to say this was a complete success, but it still leaks a small ammount. Eventually I will have to address this, but for now, it runs better than it has in almost 2 years. Fluid change. If anyone reads this, try it. I used merconV, new filter, converter drained, i cleaned the bottom of anywhere the fluid got, so I could see major leaks/problems, and I can't see any after 2 hours. My exhaust is covered, and it carmelized what did get on the exhaust, so cleaning it off will take a few brillo pads. Muchos gracias to everyone's input. I will frequent this site for info on the "ton-derbird".

btw, ^^ when i say what got on the exhaust, i mean, in the time it was leaking, before i changed the fluid. the pan gasket was the main culprit of the leak, but other seals are beginning to fail. I DEFINITELY need a trans cooler. I drive about 80 miles a day, and after the fluid change it certainly runs cooler than it ever did. Everything I have read here so far was definitely most helpful.

Last edited by rx7andtbird; 12-14-2006 at 08:26 PM.
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