Trans hesitates to second and downshifts hard. - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-07-2007, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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Trans hesitates to second and downshifts hard.

Just as the title says, but it never had a problem until it started getting cold. About two years ago I flushed it (TC and all) and replaced it with MerconV and changed the filter. Any suggestions to help prolong the inevitable. I need it to wait til May so I can graduate and possible afford to be without for a while.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-07-2007, 05:39 PM
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Just wondering if you run an external tranny cooler?

Also, how does the fluid look/smell?

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-07-2007, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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No cooler. Fluid is red, like it is suppose to be, and does not smell burnt at all. My nose has been stopped up but I got a buddy at the shop to double check me on that. BTW, by hesitate I mean that it will, under light acceleration, it will go all the way to 3500 RPM and the shift with a delightful little click.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 04:13 AM
 
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It's very important to have the linkage between the throttle and the trans adjusted right. If your car is like my '91, there's a plastic adjuster block that presses onto a ball crank that opens the throttle valve. To free the block from the ball, you push the locking bar at the front of it inward with a screwdriver.

The block slides along a square-section serrated rod and is held to it by a u-shaped clip. (Use needle-nose pliers to remove/install this clip and be careful--it's easy to lose). It should be moved along this rod until all slack in the cable at the front of the adjuster block has just disappeared. The clip then slides down into the corresponding serration to lock rod and block together in this position.

You shouldn't be able to feel any play at the front end of this cable, but it shouldn't be pulling on the transmission linkage with the throttle closed, either. The idea is to have the cable just taut enough so it starts to pull exactly when the throttle valve starts to open.

When you push the adjuster block back onto the ball, it usually changes the adjustment a little. So, you may have to pull the clip and readjust the rod a serration or two to get everything just right. A little dry spray lube where the cable or anything else rubs is a good idea. If that adjustment is off by more than a few serrations, it can cause exactly what you described--my car was doing the same things. Very hard on the AOD.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 07:18 AM
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It sounds like the lower spring in the 1-2 shift accumulator piston is broken.


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 07:47 AM
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These are electronically controlled transmissions on anything 94 and newer so not a linkage adjustment issue.

I agree that it is an accumulator problem. You need to get all the stuff to replace the accumulators with the updated stuff.

Call me if you want help. Contact info in link in sig. Be warned, I am here to sell you something LOL

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 07:19 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darrin View Post
Be warned, I am here to sell you something LOL

Darrin

So, is there a way for those of us too broke to buy a nice transmission from you, to buy parts?

Like, the clutches assembled, snap ring welded, valve body drilled, no warranty, we assemble at our own risk kinda rebuild kit? Or is this a PM question?

I'm not running major power, but I would like to be able to know that I have a transmission that likely won't break, if I assemble it correctly. I don't have the special tools like the seal installers to put the clutches together, tho.

Maybe a jmod special rebuild kit for the mechanically inclined, non experts? Obviously, we couldn't expect you to stand behind something you didn't put together, and I don't want to take food off your table either... Just want to know if something like that is possible.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 07:34 PM
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i agree...it sounds like the same symptoms i had when i had a broken 1-2 lower spring. that is an easy fix to do yourself if you have the tools.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
So, is there a way for those of us too broke to buy a nice transmission from you, to buy parts?

Like, the clutches assembled, snap ring welded, valve body drilled, no warranty, we assemble at our own risk kinda rebuild kit? Or is this a PM question?

I'm not running major power, but I would like to be able to know that I have a transmission that likely won't break, if I assemble it correctly. I don't have the special tools like the seal installers to put the clutches together, tho.

Maybe a jmod special rebuild kit for the mechanically inclined, non experts? Obviously, we couldn't expect you to stand behind something you didn't put together, and I don't want to take food off your table either... Just want to know if something like that is possible.
We tried kits like that already and I won't do it ever again. People copy the parts and start an ebay company selling garbage knockoffs. Just because you can copy a part doesn't mean you can build quality.

Now I know you are going to say "Well I wouldn't do that", but it has happened. Now it won't. People like that cause the good ones to suffer.

Sorry about it, but it is what it is.

Darrin

01 F150 5.4L 4x4 and a 98 Mustang GT vert sitting engineless and without transmission or converter


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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2007, 01:10 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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I understand; I never thought it thru, but you are right, some lame guy would be selling cheap copies...

Guess I need to save my pennies...

So, what special tools do I need to correctly assemble one of these?

I saw a post awhile back about the seals need a special tool to keep them from being damaged...

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


"War Is Peace. Freedom Is Slavery. Ignorance Is Strength." - George Orwell.
Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote

Last edited by Grog6; 02-25-2007 at 02:38 PM.
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