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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-11-2007, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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jmod part

is the new 1-2 accumulator cover **f4az-7f247-a** a necessary part. And what is the difference between that one and the stock one in a 97.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-11-2007, 09:02 PM
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my 97 already had the updated ones in it already, chances are yours does too.

1997 Ford Thunderbird LX 4.6L (WT): Removed Air Silencer. PBR Brake Upgrade. J-MOD. Silverstar Headlights. Vogtland Springs 1.6". Front Sport Shocks/ Back KYB's. PI Cams. Xcal2 by Lonnie.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
 
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so I don't need to order accumulators or a blue spring then?

is the 300 hp settings too much for a stock engine?
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 03:42 AM
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Converter is a huge variable on settings. For a converter about 2800-3200 stall that setting will be perfect, for 3500+ go all the way. For a stock converter go mild.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
 
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ok. mild it is then. Today is part order day for me, so if my 97 tranny supposedly came stock with the updated parts, all I need is drill bits and 16 quarts of mercon v? After I get it apart and I find out there is NOT a blue spring in there, I will be okay leaving the stock one in there? What is the part numbers of the 97 stock accumulators and springs?
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 12:04 PM
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My 97 didn't have the new pistons, it still had the aluminum ones with the orings. I didn't have a broken upper spring, but I replaced it with the one listed for mild settings as well.

I don't know if the cover is needed or not, it was supposedly redesigned, I THINK it is a different depth to affect the spring height, but I don't know, I just replaced it with the other one, I don't know if is listed to just have a new one that seals or if the sealing surface is different or now ::shrug::

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 07:54 PM
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mine had a build date of 08/97 and to my surprise had already had the rubber bonded accumulators and had the 1-2 blue/purple spring in it already. I switched to a brown upper/purple lower 1-2 spring as per Dirtydog, and pulled out the 2-3 spring. Might as well just buy everything all to make sure your set.

1997 Ford Thunderbird LX 4.6L (WT): Removed Air Silencer. PBR Brake Upgrade. J-MOD. Silverstar Headlights. Vogtland Springs 1.6". Front Sport Shocks/ Back KYB's. PI Cams. Xcal2 by Lonnie.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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my car is made 4/97 Hope that the right accumulators are there cause I did nlot get them today, thinking that i must have the same ones as you do. This is the first i have heard abiout a brown spring. The info on the jmod is kinda scattered and contradictory. I thought everybody says blue top and no bottom 1-2 springs. Thja guy at the ford dealers said he has never ever sold that accumulator for 1-2 or 3-4, so hope that means mine out of my 97 are tha right ones. Too late now anyways, it is coming apart furst thing in tha morning. If they do happen to be the old onesw and i cant get tha rite ones til the next day and i put it together witj the old style ones, will it still shift way better and last long time?
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
 
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Now that I have looked closely at the pictures of the old and new accumulators it is obvious to me that the new one is more superiorer to the older one. maybe it even look to me like more pressure would make old one leak more easilier than the new one. Then it would probably fail on me and it would be mine own fault foer having no patience so i will wait if they are the wrong ones in there.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 02:53 AM Thread Starter
 
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I have drained the torque converter and dropped the pan and i have spilled no mercon yet on anywhere. Maybe when the valve body come out it will spill some, but it will have dripped overnight by then. When i look up in the hole where the filter go up to join onto the valve body I see a plastic ring looking kindof like the oneon the end of the filter. Is this suppose to be there, or is it left up in there by another guy who changed up the filter and did something wrong?
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 08:12 AM
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As long as there is only one plastic ring from the end of the filter, then you are good. If there are two, then you need to make sure there are none in the tranny and only one on the new filter. Just make sure it is out of the bore so the new filter with the new seal fits all the way in.

The old style pistons, the machined aluminum with the groove and o-ring looks more high tech, but the steel one with the rubber bonded on works better. On mine you could see where the piston was scuffed up pretty bad on one side. Luckily it rotated around inside the bore and wore it evenly. I cleaned it up with some sort of fine emory cloth or crocus cloth or something.

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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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i have the updated accumulators too. For once things go right. I just do not know and cant tell from wear patterns which way 2-3 retainer faces upwards. somebody got pics please of the orientationing of the retainr?
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 04:39 PM
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As long as we're on the subject:

I'm going to be doing a J-mod soon on the LX. I did one on the LE and didn't have any problems with it, but I need a refresher. Can the valve body be dropped as a unit, without having to take it apart? I'd like to just swap the J-modded valve body out of the LE and put it in the LX and vice versa. I don't want to have to take the valve body apart or do any more drilling. And can you drop the valve body along with the pistons? or do you have to pull the pistons out, then the valve body? Like I said, I did it once, but I can't remember a whole lot about it (I'm sure it'll come back to me as soon as I drop the pan and look at it.)


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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 06:17 PM
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I know that the J-Mod will firm shifts, but does it also shorten up that long delay between forward and reverse?

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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i am hoping the tabs face down???
Anybody know this answer?
i am stuck waiting til i know the answer
the spring just popped out with it when the v b cane down so i could not see or else i woulda probably looked and knoen for sure. if i search for the answer I get the same vast amount of threads that it will take weeks to wade through them all like i did before I started the jmod. There is a picture in the tech article of a exploded accumulatoer diagram but where it says click on picture for a bigger picture, if you click on it it doesnt get bigger. So that means i still cant make out the orientation of the 2-3 accumulator retainer.



But I know that I seen it somewhere on this here site
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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come on someones gotta know
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traveler
As long as we're on the subject:

I'm going to be doing a J-mod soon on the LX. I did one on the LE and didn't have any problems with it, but I need a refresher. Can the valve body be dropped as a unit, without having to take it apart? I'd like to just swap the J-modded valve body out of the LE and put it in the LX and vice versa. I don't want to have to take the valve body apart or do any more drilling. And can you drop the valve body along with the pistons? or do you have to pull the pistons out, then the valve body? Like I said, I did it once, but I can't remember a whole lot about it (I'm sure it'll come back to me as soon as I drop the pan and look at it.)

you can swap them, since they are both 97's, without drilling etc; just need a new top gasket (goes over the reinforcement plates). To your second question one of the accumulator assemblies can be accessed without removing the valve body other is underneath. The 2-3 is underneath the valve body, it just pops out no snap ring; well you might need a screwdriver or needlenose to pop it out is all. the 1-2 assembly you need snap ring pliers (just looked at some pictures and this is located driver side towards front of car; frontmost cylinder. I used a short pole and jack to help push the spring up while removing the snap ring.

1997 Ford Thunderbird LX 4.6L (WT): Removed Air Silencer. PBR Brake Upgrade. J-MOD. Silverstar Headlights. Vogtland Springs 1.6". Front Sport Shocks/ Back KYB's. PI Cams. Xcal2 by Lonnie.
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Last edited by 91CougarLS; 02-13-2007 at 08:57 PM.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red and proud
i am hoping the tabs face down???
Anybody know this answer?
i am stuck waiting til i know the answer
the spring just popped out with it when the v b cane down so i could not see or else i woulda probably looked and knoen for sure. if i search for the answer I get the same vast amount of threads that it will take weeks to wade through them all like i did before I started the jmod. There is a picture in the tech article of a exploded accumulatoer diagram but where it says click on picture for a bigger picture, if you click on it it doesnt get bigger. So that means i still cant make out the orientation of the 2-3 accumulator retainer.



But I know that I seen it somewhere on this here site
lemme see if I can search for u...

edit... I searched for a while but couldn't find a definate answer for you and I can't remember really; try putting the new accumulator, 2-3 spring, and cover together out of the car and see how the spring sits on the cover, should help you out as to orientation, or else I'm sure someone will chime in. I did get a little confused with the rooster comb install at the end and made a pic of that should help you out. I had mine in park when reinstalling so my roller was on the park notch I marked.

http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/6001/jmod1ay1.jpg

1997 Ford Thunderbird LX 4.6L (WT): Removed Air Silencer. PBR Brake Upgrade. J-MOD. Silverstar Headlights. Vogtland Springs 1.6". Front Sport Shocks/ Back KYB's. PI Cams. Xcal2 by Lonnie.
1991 Mercury Cougar LS 3.8L: SOLD

Last edited by 91CougarLS; 02-13-2007 at 08:40 PM.
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 08:03 PM
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i have some of the jmod parts. I bought them and never used them. $20 shipped for them. Includes blue spring and the piston.
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 08:55 PM
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Found it, don't know how I missed it when I looked... http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny.../picture22.jpg

1997 Ford Thunderbird LX 4.6L (WT): Removed Air Silencer. PBR Brake Upgrade. J-MOD. Silverstar Headlights. Vogtland Springs 1.6". Front Sport Shocks/ Back KYB's. PI Cams. Xcal2 by Lonnie.
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-14-2007, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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all I can say about my days results is hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha.
I put it in the right way . I chirp my 1-2 now. I pumped the fluid out through my cooler line til it burped air into a bucket then drained t c and then there was not even enough left in the pan to spill it. No Mercon shower here. I have only tried it for an hour and it is bettter car than ever it was before.
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-14-2007, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95_SilverBird
I know that the J-Mod will firm shifts, but does it also shorten up that long delay between forward and reverse?
Read the entire article on the JMod. Hole #10 is for the reverse engagement. I went with the largest hole listed because I hated waiting 2 days for it to go into reverse, but it is a little harsh now, which I am okay with.

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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-14-2007, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red and proud
all I can say about my days results is hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha.
I put it in the right way . I chirp my 1-2 now. I pumped the fluid out through my cooler line til it burped air into a bucket then drained t c and then there was not even enough left in the pan to spill it. No Mercon shower here. I have only tried it for an hour and it is bettter car than ever it was before.
It isn't official if you didn't get a Mercon shower!

Glad you got it all done!

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97 Cougar 4.6 Sport/White Opalescent Tricoat Metallic /Gray leather down but not out?
89 Cougar LS 3.8/Oxford White/Gray velour/HG need replaced AGAIN
00 Grand Marquis LS/Vibrant White/Gray velour
63 Falcon 302/black and rust/shed isn't moving
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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-14-2007, 09:14 AM
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Yea, it just isn't right without the Mercon Shower. I was very careful (as apparently you were) used the pump to get the fluid out, and carefully lowered the pan. then went inside the house, ate a snack, checked the computer, BS'd with my roommate, and then went to check on the car. As soon as I pulled the Valve body it gave me a shower. (If the J-Mod hadn't gone so well and barked the tires I'd still be cussing!) So, since you didn't get the shower, you haven't technically finished your J-Mod. go back and dump a quart of Mercon V over your head.

My girlfriend said that a guy sitting in the bleachers while I was racing commented on that Blue T-bird always hitting second gear stong and quick. (There was ALWAYS a bark in secondn)


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Low Miles
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destined to remain stock

1997 T-Bird GT 4.6
80 MM Mustang GT MAF - P&P'd Mustang GT TB and Intake Plenum - PI Intake manifold - PI Heads
Mark VIII Torque Converter - J-Modded 4R70W transmission - Mark VIII Aluminum Driveshaft - 3.73 gears
PBR Brake Calipers - Eibach Springs - KYB Shocks
'89 SuperCoupe front and rear sway bars
SCT Chip programmed by Lonnie Doll
255/50/16 Falken Ziex ZE-512's
True Dual exhaust with Magnaflow DI/DO muffler
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