Tranny Going South.......... - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-08-2007, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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Tranny Going South..........

So I take my car in to a shop to get the transmission serviced, the manager/owner takes my Bird for a spin, puts it up on the rack, another tech drops the pan. After several minutes the manager/owner Dude comes in and tells me he's not going to do the service job cuz my trans is on its way out. Says the fluid was burned and there was some debris in the pan. (after 112K, I would imagine so). So they put the pan back on, give me a 2000 dollar estimate to make everything right and send me on my freeked out way. (No charge ) Now I know they didnt bless me with a Mercon V refill......but its not shuddering like it was.....at all!! So is this just the calm before the big aww-sh**t?? Also, just how difficult is it to get one of these trannys out?? I've done a clutch in a 5.0 Stang and my 79 F-150 4x4.....Are there any special tools needed or is this something your mild mannered shadetree mechanic can handle??? I dont want to get in over my head and end up spending a butt load of cash. TIA

Dave
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-08-2007, 01:23 AM
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To get the tranny out, you need to drop the exhaust, take out the driveshaft (which also involves dropping the fuel tank), and then you can have at the transmission. There's 4 bolts holding the torque converter onto the flywheel. You'll have to take out the starter as well. There's 10 or so bolts all together for the bellhousing, the 2 upper ones probably being the hardest to get to. Using a transmission jack will make doing this a heck of a lot easier. Once all the bolts are taken out, you can just disconnect the cooler lines, disconnect the wiring harness, disconnect the shift linkage, and it's home free. It'll probably be stuck on there at first but a little persistent will break the transmission and dowels loose from the block. You can do it yourself. You just have to take your time and do it right. Other than your standard sockets, a 12mm 12 point for the driveshaft bolts at the differential, some extensions and some u-joints, there are no special tools needed.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-08-2007, 10:07 AM
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It took me approximately two hours to take mine out. That was however after i had put a motor in my car so i had done it once already. So to go from start to finish it could take just one day.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-08-2007, 12:18 PM
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what kind of debris was in the pan? clutch material? shiny metal (steel), dull metal (alluminum) little slivers, chunks?

If it was clutch debris, I would say a small to moderate amount is normal. pull the pan again, replace the filter (make sure you get old filter grommet out) drain the converter and refill with mercon V. drive it until it breaks

if there was metal debris in the pan, then you have a bigger problem. one-way clutch on the reverse drum is common a common failure.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-08-2007, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Unfortuneately, I didn't ask to see the debris. I got the feeling it was clutch material. I forgot to mention when I started the thread that it would shudder on the 2-3 upshift (some) and again on the 3-OD shift. But if I backed out of the throttle a little it wouldn't be as bad. Driving around town, I leave O/D off, cuz in O/D the rpms would drop too low and it felt like it was bogging. This morning on my way to work, it was missing (has new plug wires), then the CEL light started flashing, then stayed on. WTF?? Thanks for all the info on R&R'ing the tranny, doesn't sound too scary. Figure if I can play with airplanes I should be able to handle another kind of Bird!!! Oh....and I think I'll break bad and drop the pan myself. One last thing.......is the Marauder TC the way to go or should I hit up Dirtydog??
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-08-2007, 01:28 PM
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The Marauder TC is a good budget upgrade but if you want the best, consult Alan (dirtyd0g).

--Chris

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1996 Thunderbird LX
Awaiting some tender deconstruction...
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-09-2007, 12:11 AM
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The shudder on the 2-3 and 3-4 shift may be from your converter. The EEC tries to lock the converter immediately after these shifts at part throttle. Actually, after the 2-3 shift, the converter partially locks.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-09-2007, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Since I got some fresh fluid, it doesn't shudder as much. Would like to find some fairly economical ways of getting a couple 2 or 3 months more out of this trans. Also toyed witht the idea of getting one from a boneyard, buying a good quality rebuild kit and doing the internal swap myself. I've been through a TH350.......are these much more complicated?? I know there are some electronics involved too. Whaddy'all think??
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