Had dealership adjust TV cable, still not right? What speed should OD kick in? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-10-2007, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Had dealership adjust TV cable, still not right? What speed should OD kick in?

Long story short:

93 5.0 AOD, original tranny, 150k. I started to notice sloppy shifts. Checked tv cable and the grommet was loose. Pulled tv cable adjustment block and grommet fell out(it was toast, lucky I checked it). Replaced grommet, and then tried to adjust by hand(and by shift points). I think I got it pretty close as it was shifting pretty good, just a little harsh on upshifts. The more I researched adjusting the tv cable, the more I realized I needed to have this adjusted with a pressure gauge so I didnt grenade my precious tranny.

So I made an appointment wiith local ford dealer and explained the situation and that I wanted the tv cable adjusted to ford specs. Took the car in and paid the 59.99. After the work was complete I opened the hood to see where it wound up--right at the 'min' mark I had made when I adjusted it. I then took the car out for a drive(in town) and it shifted great(1,2,3 shifts, I always manually put shifter in D when in town). However, yesterday I took the car on the freeway for the first time since the adjustment and noticed that with shifter in OD, it will not shift into OD till almost 60--even at very light throttle. This is NOT how it used to behave, as it would try to go into OD at 40-45 before--for the last 5 years.

Did the dealership mis-adjust? Should I go back and question them and ask for it to be adjusted again? At what speed should it be shifting into OD at?

I have only driven the car about 40 miles since the adjustment, so I am hoping that even in the worst case where the tv cable is mis-adjusted it hasnt been driven enough to hurt it. What should I do?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-10-2007, 05:30 PM
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If they didn't check the TV pressure when adjusting it they wasted $59.99 of your money. The adjustment can be 'approximated' using a shim but that is only guesswork. If it is wrong bring it back to them and have them make it right.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-11-2007, 03:51 PM
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Go get a pressure gauge and set it yourself.

instructions that came with my LenTech valve body says to set it at 0-3psi with the trans in park.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-11-2007, 04:24 PM
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My TV pressure was adjusted "right" but it would not go into OD until 55. I took it for a spin with the local ford trans guru, we stopped about 15 times and he set it by feel. Now it shifts perfectly. It's not going to be set like this for long, Lentech vb on the way, but it finally feels right!

From the sounds of it, your TV pressure is not set too low, so you should not damage your trans in the time it takes to get it back in to correct it. I've been told to always err high with TV pressure.

I'd suggest brining it to a trans shop rather than the Ford dealership. The techs at my local dealership were 12 when Ford stopped using the AOD and set them by the book. It seems like that doesn't always work out.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2007, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info/suggestions.

I am gonna call the service dept again today and make them look at it again. The frustrating part is that I detailed what I needed done(set the tv cable pressure with a guage) to the service writer who assured me that he knew what I was asking for. At this point I'm not sure whether he is incompetent or dishonest. I was afraid that the techs would not know how to deal with an aod.

I didn't adjust it myself because my garage is currently in use while I R&R the motor in my 4x4 truck. I figured that I would just save myself the work and be sure that it was done correctly by having the 'experts' do it. I am slowing realizing that the only expert I know is myself. I may wind up doing it myself, but in the meantime I am gonna be a problematic customer for my local ford dealer. I just don't beleive that they do not have the necessary tools/information to adjust this correctly and I will 'coax' them into fixing it if I have to find/print the procedure and bring it to them to follow.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2007, 10:11 AM
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It's a Ford automatic.... do yourself a favor and ditch it. Put in a manual transmission and you don't have to worry about the automatic going out. That and you won't believe how fun your car will be.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2007, 11:26 AM
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Adjust pressure as follows. Do not follow lentech directions for a stock valvebody.
Transmission idling warm in neutral with fluid full.
install gauge block on the end of the cable to pull the cable out .275
Gauge installed on tv pressure port should read 31-33 psi. If it does not it is not correct. Some changes allow for slight increase of pressure. Never exceed 35 psi unless instructed to do so for a change you have made. Idle speed must be stable and correct. If idle is high readings will be incorrect.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-12-2007, 07:50 PM
 
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Hey there,
Just adjusted my 91 T-Bird with an AOD trans.
Here is the link that I used. http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Inst...31000_inst.htm
It's a piece of cake. The TV Contol Pressure gage block I used was a wooden clothespin which is in the right area of .390-.404" or a alligator clip(HD car battery clip) from Radio Shack or Walmart with a .396" range. My grommet was missing and replaced with a metal one about a year ago and I used a wooden clothespin then and over the weekend couldn't find the clothespin so used a alligator clip or battery clip from Radio Shack. I prefer to use a clothespin because it doesn't move around as much as the alligator clip.
Best of Luck!!!
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Update:

I brought the car back to the dealership and had them check it again. They did so and it was correct, they even showed me the procedure and the results that indicated that it is indeed to ford spec.

I then asked why it is shifting into OD so late and they insinuated that it was due to the age/milage of the tranny. I insisted that it wasn't like this before and demanded an explanation. At this point the tech and I took it out and adjusted it by feel until it shifted like it used to--ironically this would up being exactly between the max and min marks I had made when I adjusted it myself the first time. When we returned to the dealership, their transmission guru came out and talked to me and said that this is a sign that the transmission is starting to wear out--to which I replied that I had never messed with it before and for the last 6 years and 50,000 miles it had never given me a problem, which had to mean that it has been adjusted 'out of spec' the entire time.

Should I believe this, or I am being BS'd? If the tranny really is starting to go, then I am thinking it may be time to trade it in, only I do not want to. I love the car and can't imagine finding something else I could afford that I would like half as much, but I can't afford $2000 to replace the tranny if it dies either. Considering the fact that it has developed a shake at hwy speeds that does not appear to be a wheel/tire, I just may trade it off though.

Please talk me out of it!!!
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 12:16 PM
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The highway speed vibration is probably U-Joints or loose transmission extension housing. How many miles are on the car and have the U-Joints ever been replaced?

If it is a stock motor+tranny combo, then give Darrin a call or PM and I am sure that it wouldn't cost you $2000 to have him build you one.

Currently In the Short Bus Garage:
2 - '94 T-bird LX's 4.6L (one with 300,000+ miles and one with 200,000+ miles)
1 - '97 Mark VIII LSC - INTECH V8 (120,000+ miles)
1 - '97 F150 XLT 4x4 Flareside, 4.6L (130,000+ miles) - Currently being dismantled and rebuilt with upgrades!
1 - '00 Mustang GT (likes to accelerate with the brake on!), 4.6L (60,000+ miles - only comes out when I need to get somewhere fast.)

oh yeah, and they all have 4R70W's
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wether View Post
The highway speed vibration is probably U-Joints or loose transmission extension housing. How many miles are on the car and have the U-Joints ever been replaced?

If it is a stock motor+tranny combo, then give Darrin a call or PM and I am sure that it wouldn't cost you $2000 to have him build you one.
Yes, the car is stock with original engine/tranny and has 140,000 miles on it. I have never changed anything on the car except the brakes. I assume you are referring to the driveline ujoints? How hard are they to change in my driveway? IIRC, don't I have to pull the exhaust and gas tank?

I was figuring $2000 based on the cost of the tranny and the cost of having it installed. I'm not sure I want to try and R&R a tranny in my driveway.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 01:40 PM
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The U-Joints are not that difficult to remove and install. . . . . .You don't actually have to drop the gas tank, just loosen it and let it drop a few inches. You will need a 12mm 12-point socket to remove the bolts hold the driveshaft to the differential. I replaced both u-joints, rear wheel bearings, halfshafts and rebuilt the differential in a driveway in a weekend.

With that many miles on the tranny, I am betting that you have a loose transmission extension housing. This can be checked by jacking the car up enough to get to the transmission and then checking the bolts that attach the extension housing to the transmission. When it gets loose enough to be noticable they are usually so loose they can be turned by hand. If the extension housing is loose, then you will need to replace:

1.) The extension housing gasket
2.) The extension housing metal seal (around the Drive Shaft)
3.) The extension housing bushing.

These are all fairly easily accomplished anyway if you take the driveshaft out to replace the U-Joints. For all of these parts (u-joints + extension housing parts) we are talking about maybe $60 - $70.

I have written up a procedure for doing the extension housing on a 4R70W here:

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.p...ension+housing

(it should be the same for an AOD, I believe)

Currently In the Short Bus Garage:
2 - '94 T-bird LX's 4.6L (one with 300,000+ miles and one with 200,000+ miles)
1 - '97 Mark VIII LSC - INTECH V8 (120,000+ miles)
1 - '97 F150 XLT 4x4 Flareside, 4.6L (130,000+ miles) - Currently being dismantled and rebuilt with upgrades!
1 - '00 Mustang GT (likes to accelerate with the brake on!), 4.6L (60,000+ miles - only comes out when I need to get somewhere fast.)

oh yeah, and they all have 4R70W's
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 01:42 PM
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PS: If you weren't so far away I would come over and help you do the job. . .

Currently In the Short Bus Garage:
2 - '94 T-bird LX's 4.6L (one with 300,000+ miles and one with 200,000+ miles)
1 - '97 Mark VIII LSC - INTECH V8 (120,000+ miles)
1 - '97 F150 XLT 4x4 Flareside, 4.6L (130,000+ miles) - Currently being dismantled and rebuilt with upgrades!
1 - '00 Mustang GT (likes to accelerate with the brake on!), 4.6L (60,000+ miles - only comes out when I need to get somewhere fast.)

oh yeah, and they all have 4R70W's
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-23-2007, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Wether, I appreciate it. As soon as I get my truck out of the garage(two more weekends I think), I will pull the bird in there and have a look. Now I just got to hope that the tranny doesn't go BOOM!
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