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post #1 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-07-2007, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
 
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Burnout...

I was debating putting this in here, however I decided that this would work.

Can someone explain the logistics of burning out to me?

Thanks,
Jordan
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post #2 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-07-2007, 12:08 AM
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Transmission in 1st gear, left foot on brake, right foot on gas, hope for good show and not broken parts.

Unless your at the track, there usually isn't much of a reason to do one. Atleast in my opinion - tho it doesn't stop me from the occasional small smoke show every now and again

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post #3 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-07-2007, 03:13 AM
 
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If you do a burn out at the track it cleans your tires and gets them hot and sticky,

On the streets? Waste of tire but is fun to do here and there.

Than there is the brake stand! Pop 1st gear and with your left foot hit the brake softly. Front tires will lock and rear will spin unil you let go of the brake. (but easy on the gas dont red line) You while get a very big cloud of smoke. LOL Brake work like this front 70% rear 30%. So when you softly hit the brakes the front lock only. (70 30 is a basic figure not the t-bird spec Front is always more than the rear)

Just dont red line. You have to feather the gas during burn out or brake stand! Or you will blow something!
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post #4 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-07-2007, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
 
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So, let me get this straight. You put the brake about half-way down, then use gas, but don't redline.
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post #5 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-07-2007, 10:30 AM
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My method:

Pull through the water box, eyeing the groove, so that when I come out of the burnout I'll line up correctly. Turn on the pusher fan.

Push the brake pedal to the floor, flip the switch for the line lock, release the brake. Meanwhile, slip the shifter into "2". Wait for the signal to light them up, then bring the rpms up to 4000-4500 for about 6-8 seconds before releasing the line locks and carrying the burnout for 15 feet or so. Look to the groove as soon as I release the line lock, and get the car lined up with it as I carry the burnout.




On the street...just roll into the throttle a little too quickly and they'll light up.



In the slow car, I just use the "brake stand/power brake" method.



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post #6 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-07-2007, 11:18 AM
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Lol rod. Very detailed write up :-) But not everybody has a twin srew'd 5.0 cammer. (unfortunately) anyway, what i do, with the 5 speed is put it in second give the engine about 1800 rpms or so (351 has tremendous low end torgue for stock) then i slowly let out the clutch till she's about to roll, the mash the gas and let out the clutch.... took some practice for me, but its pretty impressive when i get it right... Thinking about installing a line lock to the front only, making my burnout easier at the track w/o passing the starting line...

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Red Green, is that you? Might consider looking into fabbing an intake setup that isn't so, well, ghetto.
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post #7 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-07-2007, 09:23 PM
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Rod, your split port "slow car" would probably kill most stock 4.6 birds.
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post #8 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-07-2007, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
 
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I don't have a manual. It's an automatic.

I don't have line-lock brakes installed.

I can't just stand on the e-brake and floor it, since it's rear wheel drive.

I can't seem to get my rear wheels to lose traction without cutting a doughnut. Maybe it's the 100 lb. subs in the trunk?

So, a little more relevant help?
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post #9 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-07-2007, 10:44 PM
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1. we know that.

2. we know that also.

3. maybe, or just operator error.

4. no, you dont deserve it because you choose not to pay attention.




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post #10 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-07-2007, 10:44 PM
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dude, no one said use the e-brake, just hold the brake pedal and punch the gas

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post #11 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-07-2007, 11:14 PM
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Add power.

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post #12 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-07-2007, 11:28 PM
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Add power.

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post #13 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-09-2007, 08:31 PM
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Its really simple dude. You are putting way to much thought behind it.

1. Hold brake pedal down and keep it there. Not to the floor but so car does not move.

2. Press gas pedal till wheels start to spin.

3. Watch smoke and rubber fly.

4. Begin cackling from joy.

Thats it. Follow these simple steps and you will be doing a burnout.

(Silverbird97 does not assume responsibility for your actions from trying this and screwing up)

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post #14 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 10:09 AM
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One addition. At some point let the car move a little or you will melt holes in the road.

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post #15 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 10:41 AM
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You're all forgetting one step.

6) start saving up for new tires...... lots of them....

I don't do burnouts, I even avoid prolonged ones at the track. I don't have a traction problem at the track (unfortunately) so I just give them a little spin to get them clean and make sure they're dry then line up.

I can't afford to replace these things every 6 months.


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post #16 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 11:09 AM
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For you burnout guru's...

Is it true that a full burnout at the track is actually detrimental to traction if you are on regular street tires?

I've been told (and read numerous places) that if on street radials, just a quick spin to clear out any water or debris is all you should do. (Even not driving through the water box is advised).

Any clarification?

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post #17 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 11:13 AM
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true. about 2-3 second is all it need for street tires.

My daily job is to fry rice for my customers....

My Bird is the nicest looking in Midland, Michigan

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post #18 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 12:37 PM
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dont over think it...
burn outs are like drunk girls just do it


and pop up the tire psi

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post #19 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Okay. I'll add air and try again tomorrow. Thanks.
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post #20 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 Daily Driven 4.6L View Post
For you burnout guru's...

Is it true that a full burnout at the track is actually detrimental to traction if you are on regular street tires?

I've been told (and read numerous places) that if on street radials, just a quick spin to clear out any water or debris is all you should do. (Even not driving through the water box is advised).

Any clarification?
If you're running street tires at the track:

#1. Drive around the water box. Driving through the water box with street radials allows the tires to pick up water, which the tires end up leaving on the track surface...which really p*sses off the slick tire guy that has to run after you. If you can't drive around the water, at least try to avoid it as much as possible.

#2. Once you're past the water box, do a quick 2-3 second burnout to clean the tires, lose any water that they picked up (the rear tires, anyway), and add a little heat to them. Doing a long 6+ second burnout on street tires will usually reduce your traction at the line.

#3. Don't "bunnyhop" (mini-launch) the car up to the staging beams. Not only does it look dumb, but you're actually wasting traction...which is really why it looks dumb. This applies even more to slick tire/drag radial cars.

#4. Stage with some courtesy. Make sure both lanes are pre-staged before staging.

-Rod

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post #21 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
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One addition. At some point let the car move a little or you will melt holes in the road.

Brad
But that is the fun part. Its kind of like saying, silverbird97 was here. I did that at my house. 3 seconds and there is 1 hole from my tire. Man I wish I had trac loc.

And traver makes a good point. It wears them down really quick if you do burnouts like you see on you tube. But just a mini smoke show wont hurt your tires (or pocket) that bad. Granted you WILL be replacing your rears sooner than the fronts no matter what.

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post #22 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-10-2007, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racecougar View Post
If you're running street tires at the track:

#1. Drive around the water box. Driving through the water box with street radials allows the tires to pick up water, which the tires end up leaving on the track surface...which really p*sses off the slick tire guy that has to run after you. If you can't drive around the water, at least try to avoid it as much as possible.

#2. Once you're past the water box, do a quick 2-3 second burnout to clean the tires, lose any water that they picked up (the rear tires, anyway), and add a little heat to them. Doing a long 6+ second burnout on street tires will usually reduce your traction at the line.

#3. Don't "bunnyhop" (mini-launch) the car up to the staging beams. Not only does it look dumb, but you're actually wasting traction...which is really why it looks dumb. This applies even more to slick tire/drag radial cars.

#4. Stage with some courtesy. Make sure both lanes are pre-staged before staging.

-Rod
and deep staging is for racing Hondas only....especially the hopped up RSX TypeS that got its doors blown off by me




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post #23 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-11-2007, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racecougar View Post
If you're running street tires at the track:

#1. Drive around the water box. Driving through the water box with street radials allows the tires to pick up water, which the tires end up leaving on the track surface...which really p*sses off the slick tire guy that has to run after you. If you can't drive around the water, at least try to avoid it as much as possible.

#2. Once you're past the water box, do a quick 2-3 second burnout to clean the tires, lose any water that they picked up (the rear tires, anyway), and add a little heat to them. Doing a long 6+ second burnout on street tires will usually reduce your traction at the line.

#3. Don't "bunnyhop" (mini-launch) the car up to the staging beams. Not only does it look dumb, but you're actually wasting traction...which is really why it looks dumb. This applies even more to slick tire/drag radial cars.

#4. Stage with some courtesy. Make sure both lanes are pre-staged before staging.

-Rod
Cool, that's exactly what I've been doing. Thanks for the clarification.

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post #24 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-12-2007, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
 
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Okay, so I got it to work on gravel, but still nothing on the road. Why not?

Could it be that my brakes aren't normal. I forgot what kind, but they're really really strong. So much so that they squeal when applied. Is it granite? Or some such thing.
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post #25 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-12-2007, 02:10 AM
 
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I don't think your right foot is heavy enough
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post #26 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-12-2007, 08:57 PM
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Sounds like you need to replace your brake pads on your disc brakes. No, brake pads aren't made out of granite.

-Rod

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post #27 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-13-2007, 12:48 AM
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And if they are squealing that badly, you may want to give your rotors a good look and possibly have them turned, or replaced.


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post #28 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-13-2007, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
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Okay, so I got it to work on gravel, but still nothing on the road. Why not?

Could it be that my brakes aren't normal. I forgot what kind, but they're really really strong. So much so that they squeal when applied. Is it granite? Or some such thing.
LOL Are you serious? You have to be joking.

1. This forum requires that you wait 30 seconds between sending private messages. Please try again in 266079416 seconds. wtf?
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post #29 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-13-2007, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theherkman View Post
Okay, so I got it to work on gravel, but still nothing on the road. Why not?

Could it be that my brakes aren't normal. I forgot what kind, but they're really really strong. So much so that they squeal when applied. Is it granite? Or some such thing.


They use to be made of granite but they haven't used that material for brakes for a while. Have you tried your feet?

Just ask these guys they'll tell ya.


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post #30 of 135 (permalink) Old 10-13-2007, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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I said I don't remember what it is, but it's really hard and stuff. At the point where you first start applying, lightly, they squeal.
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