Hub Swap Truly Worth It? - TCCoA Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
Seasoned Veteran Poster
 
sCrEaMiN BiRd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 974
Hub Swap Truly Worth It?

I have been contemplating doing the hub swap to atleast my front. Mostly so that it will be easier to get brake rotors (im running 13" cobra brakes), that way i wont have to get the KVR's which are expensive and not as easily available as 4.5 bolt pattern 13" cobra rotors.

However, the wheel situation has me worried. I understand that most mustang wheels are the wrong offset and stick out in the front. Therefore requiring machine work to bring the wheels more inward. So now i'm thinking is the hub swap even worth the extra money and time involved (even though the front swap is bolt on)? Because i run Brad's saleen wheels (5x4.25 bolt pattern, thinking of selling however) would the swap be worth it?

I ask because i want to run brads deep dish bullet wheels whenever they come available. However because i have a stock rear brake set up i was going to run the deep dish bullets from brad in the rear. Then for brake rotor availability run the 4.5 bolt pattern and mustang wheels up front.
sCrEaMiN BiRd is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 12:03 AM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,644
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
eh, the only mustang wheels that stick out in front are the 03+ cobras and anniversarys. most of the gt ones and aftermarket ones have a different offset and are flush with the fender.

its definitely worth it if you have cobra brakes IMO, that was a big reason i did the swap, the prices are just so much cheaper when using mustang parts.

also the fronts are easy, 5 minute job on each side with the right tools.

-Matt

Last edited by XR7-4.6; 02-15-2008 at 12:11 AM.
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 12:14 AM
PostSkank
 
StupidFly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Tempe, AZ
Age: 37
Posts: 3,231
Send a message via AIM to StupidFly
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post

also the fronts are easy, 5 minute job on each side with the right tools.
I was shocked how fast the front went. I could hardly believe it. The rears aren't bad either, just get a shop to change the bearings out for you and it bolts together pretty easily. Fast Ed's bracket requires a little bit of grinding and shaving, but nothing too nasty. It's a comfortable evening job if you have all your parts ready to go.

I did it for the wheel selection mostly. And the brake parts are indeed cheaper. If you're going to do brakes and wheels anyway, it's a cheap easy swap.

math > pasta
StupidFly is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 01:53 AM Thread Starter
Seasoned Veteran Poster
 
sCrEaMiN BiRd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 974
Possibly i will do this swap then. I've researched it a bit and found what you guys are saying, the front is super easy to change. Maybe brad can chime in later and give me the proper wheel specs that i need. I really want to run a staggered set up and as i said before brake parts would be MUCH easier to come by and cheaper. Anyone get used hubs or you guys just buy new?
sCrEaMiN BiRd is offline  
post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 04:50 AM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
coggonobrien's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Coggon, Iowa
Age: 35
Posts: 2,008
Send a message via AIM to coggonobrien Send a message via MSN to coggonobrien Send a message via Yahoo to coggonobrien
you coudl save some cash by having your existing hubs drilled with a second bolt pattern. no safety concerns there
coggonobrien is offline  
post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 09:04 AM
PostWhore
 
loudpipessavelives's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Warren/Youngstown Ohio
Age: 37
Posts: 1,100
Send a message via AIM to loudpipessavelives
Im lazy and didn't search, but since it's on the topic, has anyone ran across a "How to" on this or a "Parts needed List"?? Thanks

93 Bird/ Trick Flow 5.0-- awaiting some fresh paint
99 Marquis on 20's (daily)
01 Mustang Cobra with bolt on's-- 22k miles, might be for sale soon

http://www.cardomain.com/id/CDogg93
loudpipessavelives is offline  
post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 12:00 PM
PostSkank
 
StupidFly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Tempe, AZ
Age: 37
Posts: 3,231
Send a message via AIM to StupidFly
Check the tech articles on the main page, under "suspension"

math > pasta
StupidFly is offline  
post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 02:37 PM
PostWhore
 
94TchikinV8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Lebanon, OH
Age: 34
Posts: 1,222
Send a message via AIM to 94TchikinV8 Send a message via Yahoo to 94TchikinV8
I did a little research on this a while ago an I figured that the hub swap would be around $200 more expensive than just buying new wheels from Brad in our bolt pattern. So the comparison is fair, I was planning on buying a set of wheels from Ford racing that were about $150 each.

That being said, I think that the fact that you would have all new wheel bearings and brake parts would more than make up for that(my car especially since it has 170K on it). The biggest deciding factor for me was the ease of maintenance. I like to be able to just go to the parts counter and order what I need and them have it in stock, be it for a Mustang or a Thunderbird. I'm hoping to get the swap done on my car later this year.

-Rob

1994 Thunderbird LX V8

Still in pieces in the garage awaiting body work, paint, and a drivetrain...

Currently driving a 98 Mustang GT convertible:
02 Explorer engine, Comp 262ah cams, Steeda underdrives, aftermarket H-pipe with high flow cats, SLP LM1 exhaust, MGW shifter, RAM clutch
[email protected], 2.17 60ft(stock 2.73s, worn-out trac-lok)
94TchikinV8 is offline  
post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
Seasoned Veteran Poster
 
sCrEaMiN BiRd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 974
Quote:
Originally Posted by coggonobrien View Post
you coudl save some cash by having your existing hubs drilled with a second bolt pattern. no safety concerns there
That's a good point. Possibly i could actually swap the front since that is pretty straight forward then just redrill the back. However, now i'm having trouble finding mustang wheels witht he right offset. The SN95 + New Edge wheels would stick out too much and the S197 wheels would be in too much... The search continues...
sCrEaMiN BiRd is offline  
post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 09:31 PM
Seasoned Veteran Poster
 
1995 cougar xr7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Naples, FL.
Age: 45
Posts: 889
exactly how far do the 03 + stick out on the front and back. does it cause any problems
1995 cougar xr7 is offline  
post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 09:35 PM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,644
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
they stick out about 1/2" in the front and are flush with the rear. personally, i havnt had any issues at all using them, but some people have had rubbing issues.

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 10:15 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
jk69cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: vernon hills, IL
Age: 42
Posts: 5,978
hey matt,, squeak! lol the rear wasnt even really that bad, although it would of helped to have the holding fixture cup that ford requires to r&r the rear bearings. that was the worst of the pressing job. really straight forward and thats what took us the longest and matt had to do this when it was 100 out , lol

64 ford galaxie -FE powered beast!- sleeping giant
69 cougar standard- 347/c6 -efi restomod, heidts prog 4 link heavily modified front, custom strutrods boxed lowers rollerperches 620 lowering springs! meier shock tower brace
96 f150 supercab lifted beast! 351 powered beast
87 shasta roadmaster 29ft travel trailer- pimpdaddy camping!
mn12 less!
jk69cat is offline  
post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-16-2008, 02:16 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
96bird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: cleveland, TN
Age: 37
Posts: 2,936
Send a message via AIM to 96bird
About 5 years ago I would say that the hub swap was a good idea, but now the options and pricing is much better than it was then. I personally would not do the hub swap. The only advantage that I can see is getting rotors for cheap (Cobra), but nothing other than that.

Russell

JL's chassis braces, ST springs w/ 1 coil cut in rear (27.2" F 28" R), Airlift airbags (5 psi), Bilstein shocks, Cobra brakes F & R, ROH RT 17x9s, 255/285s Khumo Ecsta MX tires, 2.5" dual exhaust w/borla mufflers, 1 3/8 f & r bars, remote filter,subframe buildup, Al differential bushings, J-modded '02 tranny, 9.5" DD stall, 30K Hayden cooler, PI intake, 02 GT MAF, XCal 2

Want to talk/hangout with MN12 owners from GA? Go here.
96bird is offline  
post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-16-2008, 03:31 PM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,644
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
well i look at it this way, i have new wheel bearings, hubs, ect. from the swap and being how many miles were on the car at the time, it would have needed some of those parts sooner or later. that with the lower price of cobra rotors its worth it. plus i dont have to tell people i have the "taurus" bolt pattern anymore lol

plus, the wheels i have are not in the tbird bolt pattern.

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-16-2008, 09:42 PM
Seasoned Veteran Poster
 
1995 cougar xr7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Naples, FL.
Age: 45
Posts: 889
half inch not that bad , i gonna do mine, on that holding cup and pressing part , did you use a ball joint tool c-frame what are you talking about
1995 cougar xr7 is offline  
post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-16-2008, 10:43 PM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
jk69cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: vernon hills, IL
Age: 42
Posts: 5,978
you have to do it in a hydraulic press not on the car. and it comes out hard, the cup hold the sindle inthe press , and i didnt have one, it would of made life much easier

64 ford galaxie -FE powered beast!- sleeping giant
69 cougar standard- 347/c6 -efi restomod, heidts prog 4 link heavily modified front, custom strutrods boxed lowers rollerperches 620 lowering springs! meier shock tower brace
96 f150 supercab lifted beast! 351 powered beast
87 shasta roadmaster 29ft travel trailer- pimpdaddy camping!
mn12 less!
jk69cat is offline  
post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 12:29 AM
PostWhore
 
loudpipessavelives's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Warren/Youngstown Ohio
Age: 37
Posts: 1,100
Send a message via AIM to loudpipessavelives
so just wheel selection? But by time you would buy wheels, either bird or stang pattern, plus the hub swap, then it is already more expensive....Why couldnt you overhaul the bird hubs & bearings instead of all new stang pattern?

Also if you have drum breaks (rear) would this make it easy to change to disc?

93 Bird/ Trick Flow 5.0-- awaiting some fresh paint
99 Marquis on 20's (daily)
01 Mustang Cobra with bolt on's-- 22k miles, might be for sale soon

http://www.cardomain.com/id/CDogg93
loudpipessavelives is offline  
post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 09:51 AM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
jk69cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: vernon hills, IL
Age: 42
Posts: 5,978
the most expresive part of the this is the rear hubs, the rest is cheap and i mean cheap ! and yes it would be easier to change to disk you still have to drill the kuncles for the brackets though

64 ford galaxie -FE powered beast!- sleeping giant
69 cougar standard- 347/c6 -efi restomod, heidts prog 4 link heavily modified front, custom strutrods boxed lowers rollerperches 620 lowering springs! meier shock tower brace
96 f150 supercab lifted beast! 351 powered beast
87 shasta roadmaster 29ft travel trailer- pimpdaddy camping!
mn12 less!

Last edited by jk69cat; 02-17-2008 at 11:40 PM.
jk69cat is offline  
post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-17-2008, 11:38 PM
4th Gear Poster
 
Tweeeeka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by sCrEaMiN BiRd View Post
...However, the wheel situation has me worried. I understand that most mustang wheels are the wrong offset and stick out in the front. Therefore requiring machine work to bring the wheels more inward....
Quite the contrary. Only the 03/04 cobra wheels stick out. And wheels for '05+ cars work very well, but the hub size is a little larger than sn95 wheel, easily solved by a hub ring.


This was my old hub swapped bird with 18x8.5" 35+ offset wheels designed for an 05+ mustang.

'96 Tbird Sport PI, Bullitt, Cobra, etc
SOLD!
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=100880

'05 GTO A4 18" Silver/red
Tweeeeka is offline  
post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-18-2008, 01:25 AM
PostWhore
 
95LX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: PA
Posts: 1,846
The 03 Cobras don't stick out as much as other SN95 wheels since they have a +26mm offset and the others have a +24mm offset. They sit 2mm further in than say, a 17x9 Cobra R designed for a Mustang. And they certainly don't stick out of the fenders. I also had the mounting surfaces machined. I had mine done for about $25 per wheel and they are now only off by 4.5mm from that perfect +36mm offset that we are all aiming for with our 9" wide wheels.
And even after having them machined, I still have at least 3/8" of wheel lip to spindle clearance. Keep in mind that 17" wheels with the same specs will sit closer to the spindle because of its shape and position. Mine are 18x9.

Slightly Jerryfied...
95LX is offline  
post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-18-2008, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
Seasoned Veteran Poster
 
sCrEaMiN BiRd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 974
Car looks good. I remember seeing the for sale ad for it a while back. The only thing that you have to take into account is that my car is SLAMMED, i need that perfect offset especially in the front. The rear i have some clearance being the wheels are only 18 x 9 and it's really not that low back there but the front has to be perfect because of tire to fender clearance is so little...
sCrEaMiN BiRd is offline  
post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-16-2008, 09:27 AM
Rob
Seasoned PostWhore
 
Rob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Hubbard, TX
Age: 37
Posts: 3,902
Send a message via AIM to Rob
Quote:
Originally Posted by coggonobrien View Post
you coudl save some cash by having your existing hubs drilled with a second bolt pattern. no safety concerns there
That's what I did on my 94 Still no problems.
-Rob

-Rob
RIP '94 Amber Fire Pearl Metallic Thunderbird on Bullitts [email protected]
96 Sport '02 Explorer PI with ported heads, 90MM LMAF, DirtyDog Marauder TC, Lasota tune, Jmod, Magnaflow mid-mount with X, no cats. Urethane drivers motor mount. HIDs!
Rob is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome