Just for the sake of helping future searches who find this thread and since I did the pass hub today.
1: buy the Hub $76, New Axel nut (make sure it's front), and grease cap $5. I bought all these from silver state ford except the axle nut, your call, oem is like $15-25, dorman from oreilles is like $10. Shipping from SSF is $13 for all orders under 100 or 150 or something, which is less than it should cost. I went OEM Koyo because I wanted to and also finding the darned Grease caps is about impossible except from SSF or special order from Ford dealer. Your choice, but I bought one hub from them, 2 grease caps, and that was it. I bought the nut from Rock Auto (other nut from oreilles) and a MC hub from them.
2: Loosen lugs on side your replacing, jack up side your replacing, chock all other wheels, remove wheel.
3: Remove both bolts for caliper bracket, and remove caliper, pads, and bracket all together. Suspend in air with rope/wire (any points the hydraulic hose makes contact with, put cloth/towel in-between), or let it seat on a extra jack stand (my choice). Note this makes it a bit more difficult to slide the assembly back onto the rotor, but it can be done and is easier than disassembling the caliper bolts, finding a good place to keep the pads, possibly re-greasing/anti squeal compound etc....
4: Remove rotor.
5: Remove grease cap. Earlier I destroyed the drivers side, hence why I recommend replacing with oem part. You can however salvage it somewhat (or possibly all together if you are extremely patient). I take a small screw driver and use it to help make a small hole between the hub and cap. The cap is aluminum and the hub will not be damaged (your replacing it anyway) so if you put it between this line and use a hammer or mallet it will pierce the aluminum, which than will give you leverage to push the screw driver away and popping the dust cap out a bit. Switch to a larger screw driver and repeat. This will only give you so much room and you will rotate the hub and try prying in and area where there is not so much open room. I found that this is once again impossible because there is not enough bite to grip the tiny metal lip, so once again you will be making another hole and repeating initial procedure but with the larger driver. It's up to you what you do from here because it can be removed without piercing it anymore, but it's faster to do so and replace the part if you want. Note that as long as the cap is intact and you made holes along the line I mentioned only, you can reuse this cap at your own discretion. I replaced because I wanted to be absolutely sure no problems would crop up, but I kept the passenger side because it looks like it could be reused in a pinch. You will be hammering this part back on and the hole you created should be near impossible to tell meaning most likely dust and debris will not get in.
6: Use a 3/4th set to get the nut off. I used a 8 inch extension, 20 inch breaker bar, 1-3/8th 12 point socket and a jack to remove the OEM nut. Make sure all wheels are chocked well and I used the jack to keep the extension, breaker bar, and socket level. This worked well. Remove nut and discard or put with aluminum cans for recycling. Do not leave this lying around where someone may use it for something, including yourself for a future job. It is not safe.
7: Brake clean the rust/dust off the spindle. It probably makes almost no difference, but it's what I recommend. Make sure there is no dust/rust that got stuck to the spindle where the hub will stay. (I believe I neglected this part on the drivers side, so maybe it does not matter as much. but cleaning everything is a good idea anyway, the new hub should have some base grease to help it slide on and off, and the OEM after 100k seemed to still be fine on the drivers and passenger side when removing)
8: If using Dorman Gold nut with no spinner on it, than you will use all the same tools as above with the added help of a 3/4th torque wrench, 3/4 ratchet wrench (I baby my torque wrenches), and a 1-1/2 12 point socket.
Note: I know these should not vary, but I was really glad I purchased the entire SEA Wrench set from Harbor Freight and it was like $40 using a 20% off coupon. If I would have purchased only what I needed this would have been a huge PITB once I tried to put back on the new Dorman nut, also the 33mm that was specified would most likely not have worked even if I bought all OEM parts for this portion.
Use a pinch of threadlock, or permatex blue, near the final threads before the hub and spread it a bit. Make sure nut is going on straight so it does not damage spindle threads. You will not get far, start using ratchet in reverse of removal procedure until it gets pretty darn tight and hub has no play anymore. Now torque down to between 196-254lbs. I chose 230 since my wrench has a +-4% variance still putting it within range. Again make sure there is NO play.
9: Tap on the grease cap, you can wait, but I did mine at this point.
10: Place rotor back on and caliper/bracket assembly on rotor. It's best to wiggle the caliper portion and attempt to hold the rotor in flush place. This worked for me along with more wiggling to get both bracket bolts back on. Start off hand tightening to make sure there is no odd angle resistance. Again I still believe this is easier than removing all the bolts and pads and applying new grease as necessary.
11: Put the wheel back on, tighten nuts in star pattern, lower vehicle, and use torque wrench to make sure all nuts are evenly torqued down between 85lbs and 105lbs. I choose 95lbs because it's dead center.
12: test drive time.
This whole job should take you as stated above 30 mins. I started at 11am, and was done before 12. I know the first time I did it it went on for maybe closer to two hours because I was double checking and I still messed it up originally because of the mistaken nut used. Keep in mind I work behind a garage and my tools need to be transported from the house to the garage making pretty much all jobs I do longer especially when I have to up and go get a different tool from inside the house.
Hope this helps anyone and ends up saving you $90 in labor lol. I think I was quoted about $190 for the entire drivers side, and they would have reused the old nut as I was not being charged for a new nut. The tools are an investment but as a few posts above mine have said you can borrow them from a local parts place like autozone etc. the 3/4th torque wrench is essential, as I have not seen a easy going 1/2 torque drive go up to 250lbs.