Drum brake hub re-drill - TCCoA Forums
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Old 06-06-2016, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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Drum brake hub re-drill

I drilled out my rear hubs to go from the stock 5x108 to 5x4.5 bolt pattern. I didnít want to pay around $160 each for the rear hubs. I didnít take any pics of doing the front hubs as itís pretty straight forward. I bought those from rockauto.com for around $20 each.

To change the front hubs:
Take off the caliper and bracket. Then remove the nut that holds the front hub on. Either 34 or 36mm. Take the old hub off and put the new one on. If using a new nut which is recommended torque to 221ft lbs. If using the old one which you can do torque to 250ft lbs. Maybe use loctite if using the old one.

On to the rear hubs.
I came across someone drilling their hubs out on lincoln vs cadillac while doing a google search and I had seen that they had a jig for doing so. The jig is from rottenleonard.com. Theyíve got all sorts of jigs to go from one bolt pattern to another. I bought mine for $108 shipped. It came with 2 drill bits. A ľĒ and a 39/64Ē bit. I got a few extra ľĒ bits from work because I didnít know how fast the bit that was sent would burn up. I just ended up using I think 2 ľĒ bits for both rear hubs, both drums and rotors. The 39/64Ē bit that came with the jig was garbage. It had barely made one pass on the rear hub. Iíll get to more on that later.

Pic of the jig on one of the drums


Youíre supposed to use lug nuts where I have the washers and nuts.I forgot them at home cause I did the drums and rotors at work. If you donít use the lugs youíll be sorry cause when you go to put the drums or rotors on it wonít line up correctly. I eyeballed it when I did this at work and got lucky that everything was aligned ok. Also rottenleonard.com says to torque the jig to 20ft. lbs.

After the pilot holes were drilled

You can drill 1 pilot hole rotate it and drill the finish hole. Here I chose to do all the pilot holes then the finish holes for picture purposes. The finish hole on the jig is a 39/64. I recommend drilling the drums and rotors to 5/8. Itíll make it easier when you put everything on the car because of how the studs are especially on the front hubs.
Front rotors drilled


You can get new rotors from rock auto for around $20 ea. If you didnít want to drill the rotors.

Now for drilling the rear hubs.

Take the rear wheel off then the drum. Next put the jig on and using the lug nuts tighten to 20ft. lbs.



You can disassemble the brakes now or do it after you drill. I did it after I drilled. Might be easier to do before you drill.

Drill the ľ pilot hole then remove the jig and clock it so the final hole is where the pilot hole was. You can leave the drums on the car to do this. I took it off cause I thought it might be easier on the drill bits.
MAKE DAMN SURE YOU USE A 39/64 BIT FOR THE FINAL! Anything under that the stud wonít pull through. Anything over that and the stud wonít hold. Ask me how I know.

Holes drilled


To get the old lugs out trim them down some. At least thatís what I did to help make sure they came out from the hub and didnít get stuck or jammed in there.
You can use this spot here to remove and install the studs.


I cut down the new studs a bit to get them in. The little bit on the end is slightly too much for it to go through the hub at an angle. The knurl on the new studs I got are .6250Ē which is 5/8Ē. They do sell studs which have a different knurl on them from what Iíve seen on rock auto.

New stud before cut


After


After you cut that bit off the stud bevel the edge so the lug nut will be easier going on and it wonít chew up the threads of the stud and nut. Put the lug through the one of the holes you drilled on the hub and put a nut then a few washers on the stud before putting the new lug nut on there to bring the stud through. The lug nuts I went with werenít deep enough to just pull it through without all that there. Plus you donít want to use just a lug nut to do that because it will damage the hub and not pull it in correctly.



After you do that, zip the lug nut on there and pull the stud through the hub using an impact. I used the new lug nut to do that. Wonít hurt anything. You can also use a regular 1/2x20 nut if it makes you feel better. You canít use the old ones because the old ones are a different size. Metric I believe. The new studs are 1/2x20.

This is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that the final holes are 39/64 otherwise it wonít pull through if its smaller than that. Any larger and the knurls on the stud wonít grab the hub and the stud will just spin. Because my 39/64 bit was screwed up and I couldnít find another anyplace around here, I drilled my hubs to 5/8Ē then welded the studs in from behind using the washer and nut setup from above with the new lug nut tightened down to make sure the stud head was flat up against the hub.
For you disc brake guys it shouldnít be too difficult. Just remove the disc brake components and drill.

End result


It was pretty inexpensive to do this. Around $185 for me. I got everything from Rockauto.com.
Part#ís and 4/2016 prices
1. Front hubs (WJB) - WA513115 - $20.79 ea. X2
2. Studs (Dorman) - 610368 - $1.12 ea. X10
3. Lug nuts (Dorman) Ė 711201 - $1.22 ea. X20
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Old 06-06-2016, 09:57 AM
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Cool! This would definitely be useful for the rear hubs. FYI, for the front rotors, 99-04 Mustang V6/GT rotors will be a direct bolt-on swap once the front hubs are replaced with Mustang ones.

Now that you have done yours, want to sell the Jig?

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Old 06-06-2016, 10:14 AM
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I got lucky and bought my Cobra rear hubs when they were still cheap(I think it was under $175 for the PAIR), had they cost what they do today this would have definitely been the route I would have taken instead. Side benefit, if you have rear disc all you need to do for that is redrill the factory holes as well, when I did mine I had to have the hub bore machined for the larger Mustang hub, other option was relocation brackets and cobra rotors, which I didn't feel I needed nor was it in the budget at the time. Would've been/would be nice to be able to simply redrill/enlarge the holes of the rotor for future maintenance.


Great looking Bird btw!

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Old 06-06-2016, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
Cool! This would definitely be useful for the rear hubs. FYI, for the front rotors, 99-04 Mustang V6/GT rotors will be a direct bolt-on swap once the front hubs are replaced with Mustang ones.

Now that you have done yours, want to sell the Jig?
Yea I'll sell it. I have no use for it now lol. PM me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
I got lucky and bought my Cobra rear hubs when they were still cheap(I think it was under $175 for the PAIR), had they cost what they do today this would have definitely been the route I would have taken instead. Side benefit, if you have rear disc all you need to do for that is redrill the factory holes as well, when I did mine I had to have the hub bore machined for the larger Mustang hub, other option was relocation brackets and cobra rotors, which I didn't feel I needed nor was it in the budget at the time. Would've been/would be nice to be able to simply redrill/enlarge the holes of the rotor for future maintenance.


Great looking Bird btw!
Thanks!

If the hubs were that cheap for a pair I definitely would've bought them and done it that way.
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:38 PM
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Wow, thats the first time ive ever seen anybody re-drill the rear drums. I normally chuck those in the trash.

But anyways, good write up.
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Old 06-06-2016, 08:08 PM
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Welcome to TCCoA

That's a nifty tool you got there..
Drilling the rear hubs, while their still on the car..

Nice to know, that the wheel studs can be removed, and replaced on the rear hubs, without removing the rear hubs..

What is a "Purplebomb302"??






Rayo..

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Old 06-07-2016, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Rayo View Post
Welcome to TCCoA

That's a nifty tool you got there..
Drilling the rear hubs, while their still on the car..

Nice to know, that the wheel studs can be removed, and replaced on the rear hubs, without removing the rear hubs..

What is a "Purplebomb302"??






Rayo..
Thank you! I've been on here a while mostly just lurking and doing searches.

This is a purplebomb:
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Old 06-07-2016, 05:07 PM
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Hi folks
here are my 2 cents 39/64" =15.48 mm with a 15.5 mm drill bit that should work just fine and is cheaper, 39/64 drill bits cost 20 plus dollar autsch,15.5 mm bit just 7.75 dollar

i got one of these jigs on order myself for my t bird, sound better than frpp price for the hubs
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