Mustang Hub Swap DIY as of 2017 - Page 2 - TCCoA Forums
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post #31 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 02:32 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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So how is he going to get his mustang bolt pattern wheels over his tbird bolt pattern rear axle hub?
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Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
You can buy new hubs from summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-1109-a

No one drills the fronts; they buy the mustang hubs.
Maybe this?

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post #32 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
So how is he going to get his mustang bolt pattern wheels over his tbird bolt pattern rear axle hub?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grog6 View Post
You can buy new hubs from summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-1109-a

No one drills the fronts; they buy the mustang hubs.
Maybe this?
I get buying front hubs but for the rears
$300 is more than I spent on a couple of mice Thunderbird donor cars

If I had to do this, I would be inclined to redrill the rears and swap in new bearings. Even if he Hayes a machine shop to do the work after knocking out the old lugs, it would be less than three hundred bucks all In.

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post #33 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 07:37 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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The price I see on those hubs is $163; I paid $200 for the hubs (with ARP studs), when they quit selling them for a while, of course, and ~100 for the reloc brackets.

Drilling was a $250 fixture, $50 in bits, and iffy results, depending on skill.

(Actually, I just checked, It's only $100, my bad memory.)

I'm happy with the sure thing, personally.

Is that worth $100, as I said, depends on skill.

YMMV, as they say.

Trashed Tbirds/cougars sell for $500 here, no problem.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


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post #34 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 07:57 PM
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I have Cobra hubs, but if I could do it over again, I’d absolutely go the redrill route

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post #35 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 08:09 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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I have Cobra hubs, but if I could do it over again, I’d absolutely go the redrill route
I considered it, but I've drilled 1/4" steel before, and the time, hassle and materials were not really worth it to me; I'm doing too many other things.

You can drill the stock rotors too, and keep the stock brake rotors. But the cobra rotors are better, in my eyes.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


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Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote
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post #36 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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I considered it, but I've drilled 1/4" steel before, and the time, hassle and materials were not really worth it to me; I'm doing too many other things.

You can drill the stock rotors too, and keep the stock brake rotors. But the cobra rotors are better, in my eyes.
Going from Mustang -> TBIRD bolt pattern:
FWIW, I showed up at a machine shop I use for my engine work with the cobra front rotors, my old tbird hub with the studs punched out as a guide, and asked them to drill them for me.
I think I paid $120 to drill 4 rotors and it took them ~1hr (being generous) With their own drill bits.

This is with Bay Area CA labor rates. I'd assume most other places in the country have a labor rate closer to 1/2 that per hour.


In the OPs case, I suspect that with a little more setup work, you could use the mustang rotors as a guide instead of buying the fixture
You merely have to remove the tbird rear hubs and punch out the old studs.
You would then center the mustang rotors in the center of the rear hubs (maybe use hub centric rings like these https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Polycarbo...-/172382606932) and finally mark the center of each of holes in the rotor on the hubs.
A decent machinist should have no problems doing that.
They would then drill 5 holes per hub in the spot required to pull/press the studs through. The drilled holes have to be the right size for your chosen studs.
You could then use a nut to suck the studs through the new holes OR just have them press the studs in using a shop press.
If you are friendly enough with the shop, you can probably do the press in yourselves while they drill the holes for you.
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