WHAT buffer do you use?? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-11-2015, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Arrow WHAT buffer do you use??

What buffer/DA orbital buffer do you use?

Where did you get it??

Thanx,

Tweety Bird

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-11-2015, 01:22 PM
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Autozone. Its a round 6 inch buffer thats also a sander. It has the built in holes and dust bag. Has velcro so i attach sanding pads and when i buff(bee a yr been prepping for paint) i attach my buffer pads/cloths. I also have a 10buffer from harbor frieght. Paid 30$ a piece for the buffer ad another 25-40$ in pads.
Box of buff pads.
Box of 1200 grit. 1500 gritt 2000 gritt 320 and 600
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-11-2015, 06:28 PM
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http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57...her-69924.html

with these:

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-ccs-pads.html

Rod @ AzzKicker Cars
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-13-2015, 01:16 PM
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I did lots of research before I did anything. Mostly learned from Junkman on YouTube.

PORTER-CABLE 7424XP dual action polisher

Paired with:

Meguiar's W67DA Dual Action Backing Plate and,
Chemical Guys Hex-Logic 5.5" pads in white, orange, and black

Along with these products:

Meguiar's M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound
Meguiar's M205 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish
Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant

And of course thoroughly using a clay barring before touching anything!

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[email protected] with 3.27 gears
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-14-2015, 11:06 AM
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I have a Craftsman with a 10" pad that I bought in the early 90's. In recent years, it has been in the attic as I realized nothing beats good 'ol fashioned elbow grease.

The buffer only really works on the flat surfaces anyway, and is okay for applying a final wax, but for using cleaner wax on a white car to get out minor stains and such, got to do it by hand.

Al

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-14-2015, 05:41 PM
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That sounds more like a cheapo wax applier/buffer than a DA polisher. I couldn't imagine doing a real paint correction by hand.

Rod @ AzzKicker Cars
[email protected]
90 XR7-The Meth Addict-KB SC'd 5.0L DOHC Stroker
2004 Mustang GT-The Driver-Intake/Exhaust/3.73's
1995 F150 4x4-The Mud Toy-5.0L/4R70W/33's/Warn 8274 Winch
94 LX w/Splitport 3.8L from 2000 Mustang - SOLD
2 - 90 35th Anny Ed SC's
And a TON of parts cars!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-06-2015, 06:42 AM
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A craftsman orbital auto buffer. I think it's a 8 inch model. I haven't used since the early 00's. As a previous poster mentioned nothing beats elbow grease. The polish type buffers are in my opinion are really only at their best on flat panels but they are good for for applying wax or a final polish like swirl remover on large flat panels.

You don't what to confuse these with the high speed 90 degree body shop type buffer that you would use for compounding or leveling paint. These are for the pros and require quite a bit of experience and skill to avoid burning through the the paint.

I'm a big fan off the Craftsman C3 line of cordless tools and recently found out they made a 6 inch cordless buffer which seems great for waxing. They are long since discontinued and were fairly expensive. So they never were big sellers. I WILL find one or two. It's my new quest. My biggest beef with orbital buffers is the cord. No matter how careful you are it seems like it's always falling off your shoulder, landing on a panel or getting wrapped around the spindle. Are there any decent cordless buffers out there suitable for that yearly spring buff job?

I HATE corded body shop buffers. Before clear coat paint having to actually compound a new used car was common. And so was getting the cord wrapped around the spindle of a high speed buffer and watching it get torn from your hands and then skate across your newly painted hood. Good times.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-06-2015, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97CatMan View Post
You don't what to confuse these with the high speed 90 degree body shop type buffer that you would use for compounding or leveling paint. These are for the pros and require quite a bit of experience and skill to avoid burning through the the paint.
As racecougar stated above, you aren't going to correct paint by hand. Conversely, you don't need a high speed polisher to do it either.

A dual action polisher, like the Porter Cable I mentioned above will correct paint. The risk of damage to the paint is very low if you properly wash and clay bar to remove surface contaminants. You'd have to be incredibly lax to actually burn the paint, the dual action prevents that. You can hold it on your hand and nothing's going to happen to your hand.

You don't need to be an expert to do it either. I read a few threads, watched a few videos on YouTube, and had great success the first time I used it on removing/minimizing some fairly prominent scratches on the front fender of my daily driver. Which isn't a flat spot, either!

TCCoA, there's no better way.
BlackCat94 - The Revolution.
1994 XR7 - Intake Tube, LMAF, March Underdrive Pulleys, J-Modded '00 Mustang Trans, Marauder T/C,
TruBendz 2.5" SS True Duals, Apten Flip Chip, FRPP 4.10s & Trac Lock, etc.

[email protected] with 3.27 gears
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