Source for 1996-1997 exterior door handle rivets - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-28-2015, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
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Source for 1996-1997 exterior door handle rivets

I have need to replace my drivers side door handle on a 1997 30th AH. I just bought the car and ALL the exterior locks are frozen solid from never being lubed. From what I can see from the manual in order to swap the lock cylinders you need to remove the exterior door handle. Ford lists the N805945-S102 as the correct rivet. All my online searching has come up blank. A tech article here listed the rivets as 3/16 x 1/2 x 1/2. I'm looking for a supersceded part number, a generic industry replacement placement number. Any online source for these. Barring that any more info on the rivets themsels would be helpful in regards to construction EG are the heads aluminum? Steel? Are they flowered or mushroomed when installed in the the door. My local Ford/LM dealer gave me the brush off on these. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

I do need to swap the the lock cylinders as the car has a intermittent RKE fault and I'm afraid that one day someone will bump the button. Lock the car and I'll be stuck. I do have a complete working set of cylinders in another 30th AE Cougar.

First post. I've done some searching and probably missed the answer. Every forum has its quirks.

I have three 30Th AE Cougars. Ones a parts car. Ones going to be my new driver and ones a 30,000 mile garage queen. So you could say I have the MN12 sickness.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-28-2015, 07:38 AM
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You don't need to remove the door handle to get the lock cylinder out. Take out the retaining tab on the inside of the door jamb, disconnect the linkage from inside the door via removing the door panel, and the lock cylinder just rotates out.

And welcome to the site from a fellow Clevelander.

-Brandon
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-28-2015, 10:58 AM
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In the original TCCoA tech article: Installing 1996-1997 style color matched door handles

The Ford Part Number for the rivets necessary to install the 1996-1997 style color matched door handles was never included..

The Ford Part Number for these rivets is: (W705711-S417) or (W705711S417)

These are available at your local Ford dealership..If not in stock they can be ordered..They come in a pack of 4..

These can also be found under the Auveco brand name part number: 19414

The Fastenal local to me carries Auveco brand fasteners..So they may have something in stock..

Here is a picture of what the rivet looks like when it is installed:


Your average rivet gun/tool will not handle these rivets..

You need a heavy duty rivet tool like this one:


Which can be purchased here-->>1/4 Heavy Duty Rivet Gun

These are special high strength rivets which should not be replaced with cheap imitations..

You may need a second person..Since this large rivet tool requires two hands, and someone to hold the door handle up..






Rayo..

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.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-28-2015, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Wow thanks guys that was fast.

I'll check those part numbers out at the dealer. I'm actually in North Olmsted. The riveting I got handled. Brother in law works for the largest body shop chain here in NEO. The deal is I find the rivets and he'll take care of the installation. He's to busy to do the detective work. Maybe they have the Auveco ones there.

I'll have to try accessing the lock again but it feels like it's on the outside of the door skin. And manual show it being located between door skin and the latch. Once I saw that I moved on to another project.

TheTerminator93 is there any particular Ford dealer here that seems to have a better level of stock then most? If I can get these I'd like to do this over the weekend.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015, 12:31 AM
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North Olmsted! Another west side guy at last, lol.

As for getting the lock out, the best of my memory is telling me it was just a rod that kind of snaps into place in one of those 'spring loaded "V"' catch thing...s... Once that's out and the metal clip that goes in the side of the door is out, the cylinder can be removed freely. It was some 7 years or so ago I removed the cylinders on mine to pick the corrosion off them because they were frozen solid...

I don't usually go up to dealerships to get parts; I tend to order online most of the time. I once called Mike Bass up about a part and while they didn't have it, they were able to tell me the nearest dealer that did.

-Brandon
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
North Olmsted! Another west side guy at last, lol.

As for getting the lock out, the best of my memory is telling me it was just a rod that kind of snaps into place in one of those 'spring loaded "V"' catch thing...s... Once that's out and the metal clip that goes in the side of the door is out, the cylinder can be removed freely. It was some 7 years or so ago I removed the cylinders on mine to pick the corrosion off them because they were frozen solid...

I don't usually go up to dealerships to get parts; I tend to order online most of the time. I once called Mike Bass up about a part and while they didn't have it, they were able to tell me the nearest dealer that did.
Yeah I'll have another look at the inside of the door. These things aren't exactly like a 67 Fairlane were one could pop off the door panel then reach right in and pull the retainer clip and yank the tumbler out

Ahh the joys RKE.....no one EVER lubed the lock cylinders on this. They are frozen solid. Can't even wiggle the key with vise grips! I've tried all the normal penetrants so and even heating the key up. They are toast.

Paul at JR Dall Ford used to be great at looking stuff up for old stuff and finding it. But they are long gone.

My one car has 30,000 on it and it's been stored mostly. It's pretty much untouched other than ford replacing the rotors under a service campaign. And me replacing the plug wires from some rodents that got hungry. Still has the original intake. I suppose I should change it.

The car I'm working on is my new daily driver. And hopefully once all the bugs and maintenance issues are handled I can mod it a little. Build a little power. Have some fun. I've alway left the first car untouched because of the low mileage.

The third ones my old driver/winter beater and while complete and running the rear sub frames about ready to fall out. So I'm trying to transfer the best parts to the new driver. Strip what's good and get it the heck out of the driveway and gone.

I have a ton of work in front of me but would enjoy meeting up with some members at some point.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97CatMan View Post
Yeah I'll have another look at the inside of the door. These things aren't exactly like a 67 Fairlane were one could pop off the door panel then reach right in and pull the retainer clip and yank the tumbler out

Ahh the joys RKE.....no one EVER lubed the lock cylinders on this. They are frozen solid. Can't even wiggle the key with vise grips! I've tried all the normal penetrants so and even heating the key up. They are toast.

Paul at JR Dall Ford used to be great at looking stuff up for old stuff and finding it. But they are long gone.

My one car has 30,000 on it and it's been stored mostly. It's pretty much untouched other than ford replacing the rotors under a service campaign. And me replacing the plug wires from some rodents that got hungry. Still has the original intake. I suppose I should change it.

The car I'm working on is my new daily driver. And hopefully once all the bugs and maintenance issues are handled I can mod it a little. Build a little power. Have some fun. I've alway left the first car untouched because of the low mileage.

The third ones my old driver/winter beater and while complete and running the rear sub frames about ready to fall out. So I'm trying to transfer the best parts to the new driver. Strip what's good and get it the heck out of the driveway and gone.

I have a ton of work in front of me but would enjoy meeting up with some members at some point.
I replaced the door lock cylinders on my '97 T-Bird about 5 years ago. All you have to do is remove the metal clip in the side of the door (just a little above, if I remember correctly, the door latch assembly), then with the door panel off, remove the lock rod attached to the back of the lock cylinder, and it will then pull right out of the door handle assembly.

I'm originally from Cleveland. I moved here to Phoenix at the end of April, 2012, after my dirty, filthy, cheating, adulterous whore of an ex-wife - well, never mind, LOL. That's a WHOLE 'nother thread!

I grew up in Bruns-tucky - excuse me, Brunswick. But, since 1987, I lived in N Royalton, Lakewood (I moved from Lakewood after 1 year because I was tired of my 1988 Mustang LX 5.0 getting stolen!), Strongsville, N Olmsted, and Berea, where I lived until I moved here. I love Phoenix & the desert southwest, but do miss Cleveland, at times (Dec - Mar are NOT some of those times that I miss Cleveland, LOL!).

Dennis
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015, 05:48 PM
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Yeah, you didn't "miss" much this last winter. Aside from the coldest February on record.

Although it was fun getting like 4 free days off due to all the schools being closed.

-Brandon
97 Laser Red Thunderbird LX 162k, Stage 2 4.6L 2v N/A | 300 BHP (255 RWHP, 290 RWTQ) | 13.95 @ 97.58 | Build details | Pics at the Lorain Assembly plant
98 Black Mark VIII 160k, stock daily driver
07 Redfire Fusion V6 SEL 178k, for the wife
Gone but not forgotten: 96 Mark VIII, 94 Cougar XR7, 93 Mark VIII

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Once you have tasted flight, you will walk the world with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return. -Leonardo da Vinci
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