Painting a Dorman 96/97 door handle to match. - TCCoA Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Painting a Dorman 96/97 door handle to match.

Well I broke the DS door handle getting it off. A close inspection showed it was already and had been cracked for a while where the door latch rod attaches. A new Dorman replacement handle is on the way.

Is there any special prep needed when painting these? I'll be using Duplicolor Dark Toreador Red. I already have the paint and it matches the rest of the car amazingly well. I have Duplicolor Clear Coat also. The factory primer is a very light gray almost white. Any recommendations for a primer? Or just grab the lightest possible Duplicolor to avoid any issues? I assume I should scuff these with 400 grit. De wax them and prime them. Should I be using something like a primer with a flex additive or something like that?

I've painted all sorts of stuff and it always comes out pretty good. But not plastic door handles that will be flexing a bit.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Also looking at the broken handle I'm replacing. You can still grasp a sliver of the door handle that's attached and open the door. Both the factory latch and the Dorman replacement are hollowed out on the exterior side opposite from where the latch rod attaches from the inside. Would filling this void with something like JB Weld strengthen the assembly? Or is it pointless since they always seem to break the part of the latch that's towards the front of the car first.
97CatMan is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015, 10:15 PM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,653
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
Wow I didn't know Dorman made repops of those! Way easier than pulling a set from the junkyard that is probably one pull away from snapping.

IME primer color makes very little difference when it comes to rattle can paints, it doesn't go on as translucent as real paint hand mixed and shot in a booth. Also I've never had good luck with Duplicolor clearcoats, the're always hazy and never cure to my satisfaction, I've had better luck using Rustoleum, just make sure whatever it is(enamel or lacquer) matches the color coat. I always use adhesion promoter on plastic parts, then primer, then color, then clear.

As for the void, there's always this method: http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=123878

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Wow I didn't know Dorman made repops of those! Way easier than pulling a set from the junkyard that is probably one pull away from snapping.

IME primer color makes very little difference when it comes to rattle can paints, it doesn't go on as translucent as real paint hand mixed and shot in a booth. Also I've never had good luck with Duplicolor clearcoats, the're always hazy and never cure to my satisfaction, I've had better luck using Rustoleum, just make sure whatever it is(enamel or lacquer) matches the color coat. I always use adhesion promoter on plastic parts, then primer, then color, then clear.

As for the void, there's always this method: http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=123878

Yeah I read that thread too. I felt it was easier just to buy a new one

DTR (Dark Toreodor Red) ican be pretty translucent. Almost a like candy burgundy metallic. My experience is that film thickness will change the color slightly. It's very hard to touch up doing drop fills. I don't know in my case if I got that one magic rattle can or if Fords paint QC was very high but I sprayed some touch up spots on my parts car and the entire rear quarter and the match was exact. I've never had paint match like this. It's been 20 years since I've mixed and sold paint. I worked. at a PPG authorized retailer. Back then the whole computer paint matching systems were just coming out and they weren't this close. I'm hoping that I have the same luck on my daily driver with the paint matching as I did on my parts car.

When the rockers are patched up I'll probably get some paint computer matched to the car and spray both sides from the body cladding down. But for a door handle I'm fine with a rattle can.

I'll grab some adhesion promotor. I was suspecting thats would be what answer was.
97CatMan is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 01:57 AM
PostWhore
 
dmw_4814's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Age: 56
Posts: 1,164
Send a message via Yahoo to dmw_4814
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Wow I didn't know Dorman made repops of those!
Yeah, those Dorman door handles are on Rock Auto (at least, last time I checked), and they're all over eBay. I need to replace mine, and I've got a bunch (mostly Dorman) saved in my Wish List.

Dennis
dmw_4814 is offline  
post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmw_4814 View Post
Yeah, those Dorman door handles are on Rock Auto (at least, last time I checked), and they're all over eBay. I need to replace mine, and I've got a bunch (mostly Dorman) saved in my Wish List.

Dennis
RockAuto and a few other places have them. I paid 34.00 shipped for one on eBay. Their are some cheaper ones being sold under a different part number (FOxxxxx) by places like AndysAuto Sport. And if you need both you can find a better price on the pair. The Dorman numbers are 80439 for the drivers side. And the passengers is 80440. At the end of the day I trust the Dorman will fit and function correctly so I paid the extra 10.00 bucks. The other brand is probably fine. I just have no experience with them and don't want to do this job over down the road.

And as much as I love spending a Saturday morning at a U Pull it yard it's a lot off work to get these off and there no garentee you going to get one off in one piece. I'm hoping that this shows up in time to get painted and ready to rivet on by Monday. I found a place to key a lock cylinder and just want to button the doors up and move on to other parts of the project. And it will be nice not to hear my GF complaint about the broken door handle.
97CatMan is offline  
post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-11-2015, 08:36 AM
3rd Gear Poster
 
irvin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: mt morris il
Age: 71
Posts: 158
your handles are probably abs plastic, but an adhesion promoter wont
hurt. scuff with a grey scuff pad first. you can check w/ ford for handles.
vintage parts had my color so i bought a pair and put them away.

96 XR7-36000 miles- pretty much mint
4.6--ZU blue, all leather,autolamp.auto temp
r. power seat added .sold in july-14
bought back-dec,14 left w/25000.came
back w/36000.
irvin is offline  
post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-11-2015, 08:53 AM
Seasoned PostWhore

Super Moderator
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tinton Falls, NJ
Age: 37
Posts: 7,447
Garage
Send a message via AIM to MadMikeyL
I've always had luck finding OEM ones already in the correct paint code on ebay for around $50-60, which is cheaper than buying the aftermarket ones and having to paint them to match.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
MadMikeyL is online now  
post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-11-2015, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
I've always had luck finding OEM ones already in the correct paint code on ebay for around $50-60, which is cheaper than buying the aftermarket ones and having to paint them to match.
Ebays my first stop for this type of stuff but I came up empty handed. I Will be keeping my eyes open of course for some in the correct color. I'll have one passengers spare once I'm done parting the one car out. And I'll probably carefully glue the drivers side one with JB Weld or something and keep that too. It's only cracked. Not broken. Good for a spare. I've never broke a handle myself. This car came with the drivers side broken. I'm actually pretty used to grabbing the stub and popping it open..
97CatMan is offline  
post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-12-2015, 01:18 PM
3rd Gear Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: northamerica
Posts: 187
I broke driver side outer 97 handle and was told by the parts store that they can't get a dorman one in, perhaps they don't ship to canada.
Or parts person was lazy. they told me to go to the wreckers, but we don't have one here. and good luck on finding a 96 97....
blueMN12 is offline  
post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-12-2015, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by blueMN12 View Post
I broke driver side outer 97 handle and was told by the parts store that they can't get a dorman one in, perhaps they don't ship to canada.
Or parts person was lazy. they told me to go to the wreckers, but we don't have one here. and good luck on finding a 96 97....
That seems odd. I would grab one off of eBay. Most sellers will ship to Canada if you ask nice and pay the difference in shipping. I know when I was selling stuff I did. Even if I was listing USA only. It's not like it's restricted technology or anything. Last I knew Canada was our neighbor and friend

I would think if they have other Dorman products they could get these. Maybe try a different store? The only rational reason I could possibly think of here would be if Dorman had a license from Ford to reproduce the handles and that license was limited to the U.S. I doubt there anything keep you from ordered one online.
97CatMan is offline  
post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-13-2015, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
I grabbed a can of adhesion promoter and a can of gray primer. The adhesion promotors says to spray it over the primer and then top coat within ten minutes. I've never used this stuff. Does that seem right? I'd have thought that you would spray the adhesion promoter directly on the plastic. Then prime and paint the color coats and clear coat it.
97CatMan is offline  
post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-14-2015, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Anyone? I'd like to start painting this today
97CatMan is offline  
post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-14-2015, 07:34 AM
Seasoned PostWhore

Super Moderator
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tinton Falls, NJ
Age: 37
Posts: 7,447
Garage
Send a message via AIM to MadMikeyL
Scuff the handle up with a red scotch brite pad, then spray the adhesion promoter, then prime, then paint, then clear.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
MadMikeyL is online now  
post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-14-2015, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
Scuff the handle up with a red scotch brite pad, then spray the adhesion promoter, then prime, then paint, then clear.
Thank you. That was what I was planning. Sometimes you gotta ignore the directions

Just wanted a conformation.

And the weather just cleared up so its time.

Gf thought she'd help by sanding it while I was at Brandon's yesterday. So all I have do is smooth it out some......
97CatMan is offline  
post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-16-2015, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
I'm not entirely sure that the Dorman is quite as good as the factory handle. It feels a bit more flexible. This could be a good thing if the plastic is more resistant to cracking. The parts look to be identical other than the different casting numbers. The factory parts looks to be a tan nylon type material and the Dorman looks to be black ABS or something like that. We'll see how it feels once it's riveted on. If it ever stops raining here long enough for me to finish painting it.....

More concerned with how it handles cold weather. You'd like to think they would mould a replacement part out of something a bit better than the factory did. Time will tell.
97CatMan is offline  
post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-16-2015, 08:49 AM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
theterminator93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: North Ridgeville, Ohio
Age: 31
Posts: 9,063
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97CatMan View Post
You'd like to think they would mould a replacement part out of something a bit better than the factory did. Time will tell.
Well, you've already got experience with Dorman suspension parts, so do you want to re-consider your statement?

-Brandon
97 Laser Red Thunderbird LX 162k, Stage 2 4.6L 2v N/A | 300 BHP (255 RWHP, 290 RWTQ) | 13.95 @ 97.58 | Build details | Pics at the Lorain Assembly plant
98 Black Mark VIII 160k, stock daily driver
07 Redfire Fusion V6 SEL 178k, for the wife
Gone but not forgotten: 96 Mark VIII, 94 Cougar XR7, 93 Mark VIII

TCCoA's resident pilot since 2014
Once you have tasted flight, you will walk the world with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return. -Leonardo da Vinci
theterminator93 is offline  
post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-16-2015, 10:37 AM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,653
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
Could actually be better if they're ABS, that's what the 89-95 handles are and they're indestructible compared to the factory 96/7 handles

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-16-2015, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Could actually be better if they're ABS, that's what the 89-95 handles are and they're indestructible compared to the factory 96/7 handles
That's what I'm hoping.

Brandon I thought about that but Ford no longer makes them and there weren't any used ones on eBay. The only other ones available looked like a knock off of the Dorman knock off of the Ford part. At least if this breaks on a cold day I won't need to call a wrecker
97CatMan is offline  
post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-21-2015, 07:21 AM
3rd Gear Poster
 
irvin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: mt morris il
Age: 71
Posts: 158
should be a code for the type of plastic on the back of the part

96 XR7-36000 miles- pretty much mint
4.6--ZU blue, all leather,autolamp.auto temp
r. power seat added .sold in july-14
bought back-dec,14 left w/25000.came
back w/36000.
irvin is offline  
post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-21-2015, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
Wow I didn't know Dorman made repops of those! Way easier than pulling a set from the junkyard that is probably one pull away from snapping.

IME primer color makes very little difference when it comes to rattle can paints, it doesn't go on as translucent as real paint hand mixed and shot in a booth. Also I've never had good luck with Duplicolor clearcoats, the're always hazy and never cure to my satisfaction, I've had better luck using Rustoleum, just make sure whatever it is(enamel or lacquer) matches the color coat. I always use adhesion promoter on plastic parts, then primer, then color, then clear.

As for the void, there's always this method: http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=123878

I'll admit to being underwhelmed by the Duplicolor clear too. I had already grabbed a can when you posted this and figured I use since I was sure it would be compatible. We'll see how it buffs out in a day or two. It's been totally crapoy for painting this think. Rain every day for the last two weeks or so. My original color coats of Dark Toreodor Red came out Blush Rose Metallic. I used up my partial can on the door handle wanted to spray just on more coat since I'd had to sand out a imperfection or two. Ran down to O'Reillys and grabbed a Can of Toreador Red Metallic. Sprayed on a light coat and was shaking the can when I noticed something ominous. Which was a label banner that said. "exact color match for GM cars" Do not pass go take one step back. Yep I'd grabbed to wrong paint. It's very very close. When the back to O'Reillys to grab the right can. And it turns out they had reset the paint section and the Fird DTR was now kept behind the counter. Except they were out till Thursday. Finally got the right paint and sprayed a few more coats. Then cleaned it.

I'll be honest. I've never used rust oleum for anything except shovels, lamp posts and rusty suspension bits. Never as a top coat. So are you referring to a RustOleum Auto product? A general purpose paint I'd find at Home Depot? Cause I'd like to get a can for the future. I'm hoping I can buff the current Duplicolor clear coat up acceptably in a day or two once it's dried. You think it's safe to give it a shot of the RustOleum over the Duplicolor Clear? If so I may wait until I can grab a can and reshoot it.


At this rate I should be done by Halloween.

The good news is I got a lock from Brandon. The locksmith around the corner says he can key it to the existing locks. Which is nice as the car came with one 30th Anniversay key I'd like to keep. I got the right rivets from Ford thanks to Rayos help. Harbor Frieght had the correct style riveter on sale. So once the locks done and the handles buffed I can finally finish this job up.
97CatMan is offline  
post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-21-2015, 10:11 PM
Humble MN12 Genius
Super Moderator
 
XR7-4.6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Roselle IL
Posts: 16,653
Garage
Send a message via Yahoo to XR7-4.6
I pick rustoleum for off the shelf/find anywhere reasons, IME it goes on better looks deeper and polishes up way better than duplicolor. There's also Krylon and VHT to try too but I don't have much experience with them besides satin with the former(which works great for interior pieces). There's much better rattlecan clears that can be bought online, for a price naturally

It'll mix as long you're not putting Lacquer over Enamal, which is a combo that will ruin the paint. Otherwise I mix and match brands all the time with no issues, I did my license plate frame with Duplicolor adhesion promoter, Krylon primer, Duplicolor performance white, Testors gloss pearl hobby paint and topped it off with rustoleum clearcoat and it looks better than half the real paint on the car.

-Matt
XR7-4.6 is offline  
post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-22-2015, 06:03 AM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by XR7-4.6 View Post
I pick rustoleum for off the shelf/find anywhere reasons, IME it goes on better looks deeper and polishes up way better than duplicolor. There's also Krylon and VHT to try too but I don't have much experience with them besides satin with the former(which works great for interior pieces). There's much better rattlecan clears that can be bought online, for a price naturally

It'll mix as long you're not putting Lacquer over Enamal, which is a combo that will ruin the paint. Otherwise I mix and match brands all the time with no issues, I did my license plate frame with Duplicolor adhesion promoter, Krylon primer, Duplicolor performance white, Testors gloss pearl hobby paint and topped it off with rustoleum clearcoat and it looks better than half the real paint on the car.
Yeah I'm reading cans now and Home Depot opens at 7:00 so I'll see what they have. Krylons fine too then. I've seen RustOleum somewhere too. Just can't remember where. I think it was WallyWorld. This stuffs Arcylic lacquer. I'll keep using the Duplicoler for the color coats since it matches well. But they can keep the clear. I'd thought about returning the Duplicolor clear after you posted and thought "how bad can it be" turns out pretty bad. I'm sure I can buff it out as is but recoating it should save a lot of time. One of the stores I worked at was a PPG franchise and at one time I was PPG certified but that was 20 years ago. I remember the basics but am pretty rusty.

You've had good luck with Testers. Interesting as I would be wary on how it would hold up in a automotive application as far as UV exposure goes. I suppose using a good quality top coat mitigates most issues. One think I'll say is testers sprays out the can about as nice as ant paint out there. Back when transistors were still dirt I belonged to our local model car club and a couple of the guys were regular contributors to Scale Auto. I learned a few tricks from them. Tooth paste as polishing compound. That Tide removes plastic chrome. That Simichome is one of the best clear acrylic plastic polishes ever and that you can thin nail polish out and spray it through a airbrush for great custom colors.

The Duplicolor clear does seem perfect for the under the hood for the inner fenders that never got buffed or cleared during assembly

Is there a thread here that's devoted to rust prevention? One of my next projects is to clean up and neutralize the couple of surface rust spots along the front inner fenders and coat them with some type of rust inhibitor or converter. And touch those areas up. Then re spray them with body paint and either paint the insides of the wheel wells or under coat them. Probably both. I've used Por15 in the past but only on things like floor pans that were clean or blasted. It's a great product but I'm looking more for something like the old Duro Extend that converts and neutralizes rust. I see Oriellys has something from Permatex that sounds about right.

As always I'd like to say thanks to everyone for the wisdom.
97CatMan is offline  
post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-22-2015, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by irvin View Post
should be a code for the type of plastic on the back of the part
Unfortunately there is only the Dorman part number. I did check hoping it would have some clue like ABS or whatever. I don't recall anything on the Dorman site regarding the actual material.

If they shatter when it's 0 degrees this coming January I'll post back. Or if they hold well.

It's not like there a lot of choices here. Used junkyard parts that will break. The Dorman. The other off brand that may come out of the same factory with a different part number or NOS. I haven't seen any NOS ones on eBay. And I doubt I'd be willing to pay the price if they did show up. They were expensive enough from the dealer.
97CatMan is offline  
post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
More rain. Every dang day for two weeks now. I think that I'm just going to rivet the damn thing on and enjoy the fact that it's Toreodor Rose Blush and revel in my cars uniqueness.
97CatMan is offline  
post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 08:09 AM
Seasoned PostWhore
 
theterminator93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: North Ridgeville, Ohio
Age: 31
Posts: 9,063
Garage
I feel your pain. We got 3.5" here since yesterday afternoon.

-Brandon
97 Laser Red Thunderbird LX 162k, Stage 2 4.6L 2v N/A | 300 BHP (255 RWHP, 290 RWTQ) | 13.95 @ 97.58 | Build details | Pics at the Lorain Assembly plant
98 Black Mark VIII 160k, stock daily driver
07 Redfire Fusion V6 SEL 178k, for the wife
Gone but not forgotten: 96 Mark VIII, 94 Cougar XR7, 93 Mark VIII

TCCoA's resident pilot since 2014
Once you have tasted flight, you will walk the world with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return. -Leonardo da Vinci
theterminator93 is offline  
post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 10:57 AM
PostWhore
 
96PRLBRD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1,088
I'm not a huge fan of Dorman stuff, the few things I've bought were "close" in fitment. Their tolerances are nothing like OEM in my experience.

Personally if I was looking for a handle, I'd find any OEM one new or used (eBay?) and paint it to match. But then again I have a new pair of NOS pearl white handles sitting here in a box

1996 Ford Thunderbird LX - 80K miles, 4.6L Auto, 2nd owner
Mostly stock except for tint, stereo, SC ground effects, and wheels/tires
--> My most recent pics <--
I'm documenting some of my MN12 stuff @ MN12Tech
- Door Hinge/Bushing Replacement
- Ford 4.6L Vacuum Hose Replacement How-To
- T-Bird DIY Cheap Headlight Restoration
- Multifunction Switch Replacement
- How To Bleed Teves ABS Brakes
- How To Remove Front Plate Bracket
96PRLBRD is offline  
post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96PRLBRD View Post
I'm not a huge fan of Dorman stuff, the few things I've bought were "close" in fitment. Their tolerances are nothing like OEM in my experience.

Personally if I was looking for a handle, I'd find any OEM one new or used (eBay?) and paint it to match. But then again I have a new pair of NOS pearl white handles sitting here in a box
Most of the Dorman stuff like headlamp adjusters, master cylinder gaskets etc seem fine. I like NOS and OEM stuff too. Genuine Motorcraft etc. The handles are obsolete at the dealers.

Keep in mind that in the couple months I've had the car not one factory door handle has shown up on eBay. The OEM one I pulled off was already cracking. Whether or not I'd like a genuine Ford door handle is moot if there's none to be had. I could hold out for a OEM one but I'm tired of grabbing the broken stub of what's left and yanking it to try to pop the door. We'll see how well it holds up.

And in other news the humidity finally dropped and I was actually able to get a couple of nice shiny coats of lacquer on it. Shiny never looked so good!

New locks rekeyed to the car. Hopefully I can rivet this on tomorrow.
97CatMan is offline  
post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 08:25 PM
Seasoned PostWhore

Super Moderator
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tinton Falls, NJ
Age: 37
Posts: 7,447
Garage
Send a message via AIM to MadMikeyL
If you really want an OEM one, search eBay by the part number, F6sz6322405, and add OEM to the search. I just did, and found 2 listings, one of which lists 4 available.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
MadMikeyL is online now  
post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMikeyL View Post
If you really want an OEM one, search eBay by the part number, F6sz6322405, and add OEM to the search. I just did, and found 2 listings, one of which lists 4 available.
Thanks Mike. I didn't have the part number. So I was just searching "1997 Thunderbird door handle". I'll try that as I'd like to have a spare or two on the shelf.

We FINALLY had a decent enough day that with the switch to RustOleum Clear and low enough humidity that it's done and came out pretty nice. So it's going on the car. GFs taking that car on a camping trip Thursday so hopefully I'll be able to rivet it on tomorrow night if I get home from work early enough. As far as fit I checked it against the OEM gasket and didn't notice any difference.


Part numbers, part numbers, part numbers.....is there any way of getting a Ford Master Parts list for these? I have a set for the 1960's Cougars. Or I should say the 1965-1972 Mercury Master Parts Catalog plus the Master Body Catalog in all 6 foot or so of linear dead tree glory. And all the stuff from 1975 or so up to 1988 or so on Microfiche. But no microfiche reader. Some where along the line it all became computer driven or online. If there's a CD or DVD version of the MN12 parts catalog I want one.
97CatMan is offline  
post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-28-2015, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
5th Gear Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 479
Garage
Well it's done. Handle painted. Handle on. Drivers side lock replaced. Keyed to match. Weather strips lubed with Blaster Drylube with PTFE. Blaster Anti Corrosion sprayed in the door skin hem. Latches lubed. Window tracks lubed. RKE issue fixed Everything works as it supposed to. I've never had a simple project get dragged out by weather like this. All I needed was two good days. One to paint and one to install. And finally it stopped raining long enough to do this.


All of this would have been made a lot easier and a door handle could have avoided being broken if the factory manual had mentioned that in order to remove the exterior door handle to latch rod rod you need to remove the door glass side run. Which is held in by one bolt and a clip on top. As far as I could see there's simply no way to remove or attach the latch rod without removing the side glass run. Once you do that it's a peice of cake.

I never thought something as simply as a functional door handle would make me so damn happy.

Last edited by 97CatMan; 06-29-2015 at 07:29 AM.
97CatMan is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome