Exterior paint issue over spray over a entirely perfect factory paint job - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Paint refinishing wheeling is my line of work actually but wanted opinions . I got this white 97 on trade actual Arizona car until 2012 brought to Michigan and the kid moreless explained it had fall out brake dust rust specs on the sides
((New Brake pads do wonders )) he didn't know how to clean it off so He idiotically being lazy rattle canned white guess it was a decent job for rattle can spray but over a other wise perfect factory white paint job that I could have just acid washed the rust specs off and do a weekend wet sand and wheel and I'm guessing ended up close to perfect refinished paint job. As I tried to da wet sand the rattle can away I see what good paint is there . But it tedious as hell I'm wondering if I have to repaint the whole car now
I feel like I have no choice so im wondering if I should try to wet sand it off and end up with a bigger mess with a heavy grit of even if that rattle can is adherable for a decent single stage repaint .
Photo below is me wheeling off some of the rattle can pain you can see the stock paint shows through with a nice clean shine.

I'm.thinkin wet sanding it off is the better idea just to avoid a mess of smudged runny spray can paint all over . Anyone agree ?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 08:03 PM
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I would try some thinner on a rag first. Usually with an un-catalyzed paint, like spray paint, with some thinner on a rag and and a little scrubbing, you can get pretty much all of it off, and then what little is left will come off with the buffer.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
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I would try some thinner on a rag first. Usually with an un-catalyzed paint, like spray paint, with some thinner on a rag and and a little scrubbing, you can get pretty much all of it off, and then what little is left will come off with the buffer.
Thanks will try I wasn't sure of the mess it would create . I was testing with nail polish remover and it was a bit harder thinner biteds in more
I'll have to tape off the quarter glass prolly be a weekend ordeal!!
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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I would try some thinner on a rag first. Usually with an un-catalyzed paint, like spray paint, with some thinner on a rag and and a little scrubbing, you can get pretty much all of it off, and then what little is left will come off with the buffer.
Another question off topic
Onrbeh the 4.6 lx stock exhaust what size is the o.d of the single pipe running right about directly under the rear seat . It split in two but it's oddly a perfect break I need to temporarily slide on and clamp a O'Reilly 6" piece of pipe to queit the thing down until a new setup goes on. Wondering what size id or od I need to buy
It looks like the weld just didn't hold
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 03:20 PM
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Crappy weld - zero penetration into the base metal caused by welding without enough current. (cold welding)

I want to say 1-5/8" Dia. - The exact number is somewhere here on the site but I don't have time to look it up.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 03:28 PM
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Definitely larger than 1-5/8", probably 2.25", but I don't know if that is OD or ID. Either way, if you are just looking for a temporary solution, I would slide the pipe back in, and get a 2-1/4" band clamp, that would be the easiest way to secure it for the time being.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Definitely larger than 1-5/8", probably 2.25", but I don't know if that is OD or ID. Either way, if you are just looking for a temporary solution, I would slide the pipe back in, and get a 2-1/4" band clamp, that would be the easiest way to secure it for the time being.
With the weld ring still intact I don't think it will slide in enough to clamp one . It looks like it would just but back to the weld point plus I'm doing this with a floor jack .. .gonna see if a shop by me will clean and weld it back for now
I think I'll do h pipe set up any idea cost on H pipe setup ?
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 07:45 PM
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Like Mikey said, I'd stuff it together and clamp it if you can.

And then I'd order one of these:

Car Exhaust - Ford - 89-97 Ford Thunderbird - Mandrel Exhaust Systems

I'd buy this setup, it looks way better than the 'custom version I had done on Lazarus.

Note: 2.5" is considerably louder than 2.25".

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 08:47 PM
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That's why I said use a band clamp, not a regular muffler clamp.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 09:19 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Absolutely; a u-bolt clamp will probably crumble the old weld area.

Exhaust leaks also make rust on the vehicle happen faster, so you really need that not to leak.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-26-2018, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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I would try some thinner on a rag first. Usually with an un-catalyzed paint, like spray paint, with some thinner on a rag and and a little scrubbing, you can get pretty much all of it off, and then what little is left will come off with the buffer.
Found out easy off oven cleaner bubbles up non catalyst paint (spray can paint ) and it rubs off or scrapes right off . I removed 90% of it so far

Just feedback for others who have over spray
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 08:25 AM
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tip

I just tried your tip on my head lamps that someone had over sprayed. worked great!
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2018, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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I just tried your tip on my head lamps that someone had over sprayed. worked great!
glad it worked out !

Last edited by Rodeo Joe; 05-28-2018 at 04:42 AM. Reason: Fixed quote
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