Replacing door hinge, what all do i need? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-14-2002, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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Replacing door hinge, what all do i need?

I'm going to be replacing the lower door hinge on the passenger side of the car... i have a 94 even though I don't think it matters. My dad works at a ford dealership so i'm getting 10% off the hinge... WOO HOO lol i'm all about saving money baby. My question is, is there anything besides the hinge that i'm going to need? I mean a small rubber piece.... a bearing or ANYTHING lol since I'm having a friend of mine's father do the door for me I don't want to bring him parts and be missing something. Thanks guys
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-14-2002, 01:29 PM
 
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There are many topics that cover this if you just search this. You don't even need a hing if you have a welder. If you are doing it yourself, Make a jig with the hole. Weld the hole shut, drill it, then put a pin through there. You need a pin and bushing that can be found for $5 bucks each at autozone that is labled "help."
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-14-2002, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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to tell you the truth, i've had my door like this for so long that i really don't care about spendin 70 bucks to fix it... i really dont. As long as i get it completely done and fixed perfectly i do not care dude... and i'm not doing it myself and i don't have a welder...
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-14-2002, 07:05 PM
 
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Here...

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/exterior/index.html#

That's the technical article... if you don't want to try it yourself, get the parts and take them to your favorite mechanic or bud.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-16-2002, 11:44 PM
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can i ask a question?

why are you replacing the hinge, is the door sagging? If it is just get the help bushing kit, it takes like 10 minutes to do the new pin with the bushings and like another 10 to realign the door... let me know if you wanna head that route, i have the part numbers...

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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-16-2002, 11:47 PM
 
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Are they the same numbers as the technical article? Those are Ford parts, and kinda pricey.
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-17-2002, 06:23 AM
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Here is what I learned from when I changed my hinge pin bushings.
You can check Advance Auto, and see if they carry the HELP brand of parts. If they do, they should have replacement striker plates, pins, and bushings. If not, Dan Newman at 5-STar Ford has all the info. on that.

Pins: D9ZZ-6643030-AA
Bushings: D9OZ-6522841-C
Striker plate: F3SZ-6322008-A

1. If you have never replaced the bushings since the car was new, you may
consider replacing the hinge too. Mine was so worn, that the bushing was
completely worn through, and the pin had elongated the hole in the hinge
plate. I used a 15/32 dia. drill bit, and opened up the hole, but the bushing
fits in there just a hair loose.
2. In spite of this amount of wear, the upper hinge bushings had no play in
them, so I am going to leave them alone.
3. When cutting the hinge pin, cut it closer to the bottom bushing, than the
top. You can then take a center punch, or drift pin, and knock out the lower
piece of the pin, from above. Then come up through the bottom of the lower
hole, and knock out the top piece of the pin. The original pin has some
knurling on it, and does not come out easily.
4. On my car, it was not necessary to make scribe marks, as it was obvious
where the hinge plate was. The plate wears into the paint enough to make its'
own marks.
5. For removing the door, I built a wooden cradle to support the bottom of
the door in two places. I made it the same height as the bottom of the door,
and put a couple of notches in it to keep the door from falling off. Use a
trolley jack to lift the car up slightly, so that you can slide the cradle
under the door. Put shop rags between the door and cradle, to protect the
paint. You can then slide the door away from the car, and tilt it forward, so
it leans against the back edge of the fender. I then propped the door in
place with a broom handle.
6. When installing the lower hinge pin, do not push it all the way down.
Leave it about 1/2" high. so that you can get the lower hinge bolt back in,
and tightened. Then you can tap it the rest of the way down.
Tools required:
13mm combination box wrench, Sawz-all with metal cutting blade, T50 torx head
bit (for striker plate), trolley jack.
It took me about 1 hour to do the total job, including making the support
cradle.


Steve - TCCoA member
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1995 T-Bird LX 4.6 retired at 247,888 miles
Thanks for the ride !

Last edited by Rolling-Thunder; 10-21-2005 at 11:44 AM.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-17-2002, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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well i've already got the entire hinge assembly... i got the whole thing for 63$ so oh well... I'm having a friend of mine put the hinge in this afternoon... thanks for your input though guys.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-17-2002, 06:43 PM
 
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Where did you get it for $63?
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-17-2002, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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from a ford dealership that my dad works at... the hinge alone is 69.99 but ford employee's get 10% off so i got it for 63... the hinge is only 70 if you go in there on your own...
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-17-2002, 07:17 PM
 
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That for both upper and lower?
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-17-2002, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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no that's just lower... you shouldn't need the upper one, it's just the rubber bushing that gets obliterated on the bottom... the top hinge i believe is 49.99... i could be wrong, but i'm pretty sure. Take a good look at the bottom hinge and it should be the only one with play in it...
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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-18-2002, 01:06 AM
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Door Hinges

When I was doing new upper and lower hinges on my 95 I got as far at the bolt that was inside the car and behind the dash. Ford was not thinking replacment here! I got so mad I had a shop do it. I saw the guy who did it and he spent alot of time with a mirrow and a socket trying to get to the bold behind the dash. Anyway my door is so nice now it goes up alittle when I open it instead of dropping down. I noteced on my 97 explorer that Ford moved this bolt on the upper hinges to face outward so you wouldnt neeed to do the whole dash dissassemble route. Just sharing my experence with you all!
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 01:11 PM
 
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Thanks for the info Rollingthunder.

I am about to replace the pins and have checked the HELP parts and none match up for the Tbird.

Does anyone know what the HELP part numbers are for the pin and bushing kit? I picked up part number 38395 which is the pin & bushing and a 38350 which is the roller kit. The parts guy could not find the part number recommended for a bird.

The 38395 works with the mustang, tempo, topaz, etc.

Is this the right part or is there another?
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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 01:27 PM
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This is a copy of a post, that I saved on that subject.

Not sure who's post it was, sorry.


I have, sitting in front of me, the pin and bushing kits recommended by another tccoa'r who said these did the trick quite well. They are HELP P.N. 38410. each has one hinge pin and two bushings. I understand that the hinge does not go bad, but the bushing elongates leaving room for the door to sag so much. Thats what we get for letting our doors swing out and bounce back. Someone else used these with great success and they were about 4.50 each. the door striker plate should be replaced once the hinge pins are dealt with. plastic sleeve comes with it. could nnot find just sleeves. I'll be doing mine within the week. if you need the p.n. for striker plate, let me know, its down in the garage.

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1995 T-Bird LX 4.6 retired at 247,888 miles
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 01:41 PM
 
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Thanks. No worries on the striker pin. I'm on my third. I just replaced the latest 2 days ago.

I'll check with the parts guys on that part number. I think that I read somewhere that it is the same pin/bushing kit as the F150. Which tccoa'r recommended them?

I'm doing mine tomorrow and will report back which part number works.

Actually, I just checked with the parts guy and yes, the 38410 is is for the F150. I've ordered 2 sets.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 02:08 PM
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That post I did above was a copy of someone else's. Do not know who the author was, so I cannot vouch for its' accuracy.

Maybe Jordan will post what his part numbers were, since he said that he had them.

Let us know how you make out.

Steve - TCCoA member
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 03:13 PM
 
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Rolling Thunder, that HELP P.N. 38410 you quoted from a fellow TCCOA'r, does that look to you like the same part will fix the upper and lower hinge?
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 05:06 PM
 
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Another question on the parts. Is it really necessary to replace the roller on the lower hinge? These generally shouldn't need replacement should they?
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 10:37 PM
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While I am not 100% certain, I seem to recall that the pin and bushings are the same on both top and bottom hinges. I purchased mine from 5-Star Ford, and only replaced the bottom pins & bushings, plus the striker plates.

I am 95% sure that they will work in both.


As far as the roller, I did not replace mine, but didn't really check it either, to see what shape it was in.

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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 10:45 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Silkwood
Rolling Thunder, that HELP P.N. 38410 you quoted from a fellow TCCOA'r, does that look to you like the same part will fix the upper and lower hinge?
I'm doing the job tomorrow. I have the same pin for both. I wouldn't expect that they would design with two different pin sizes and from appearances, they look identical.

I'll post after I'm finished tomorrow.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-20-2002, 02:36 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by soop


I'm doing the job tomorrow. I have the same pin for both. I wouldn't expect that they would design with two different pin sizes and from appearances, they look identical.

I'll post after I'm finished tomorrow.
Get it done yet? I'm going to the parts store here pretty quick... let me know how it went.
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-20-2002, 04:44 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Silkwood


Get it done yet? I'm going to the parts store here pretty quick... let me know how it went.
I just finished it. The parts are exactly what you need. I am going to write a longer post about the procedure, but for now, the parts numbers are as follows:

Pin & Bushing HELP Kit p/n 38410
Door Striker Bolt HELP p/n 38445
Roller Pin HELP p/n 38350

I didn't need to replace the roller pin. The existing was fine.

It's a beautiful thing to shut the door now.

Brad
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-20-2002, 05:33 PM
 
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Hinge pin replacement.

Parts:
HELP/Motormite Pin & Bushings 2 each p/n 38410
HELP Door Striker Bolt p/n 38445
HELP Roller pin p/n 38350 (May not be necessary)

The replacement of the Roller Pin should be obvious once the lower hinge is unassembled. My roller was fine, so I didn't replace it.

The procedure to replace the pins was pretty straight forward.

Note: When you reassemble the hinges, be sure that the hinge stopper on the door half is located on the proper side of the nib located on the jamb/body half of the hinge.

I used a 13mm socket and wrench, hammer, 12" square shaft pry bar, vise grips, 4-4X4" blocks , 2 2X4" blocks, a tarp, safety glasses, and a 4" hand grinder. A T50 Torx bit for the Striker Bolt.

-I set 2 of the 4X4 blocks and 1 of the 2X4 blocks under each end of the door.
-Detached the rubber wiring boot from the door.
-I didn't mark the location of the hinges on the door, because the impression on the paint clearly shows where to locate the hinges for alignment later.
-Had my buddy support the end of the door while I supported the hinge end and unscrewed the 4 hinge bolts from the door.
-Set the door down on the blocks and out and away from the hinges. Have slave...er, buddy balance the door.
-Lay a tarp over the door opening.
-Grind through the middle of the pin. There isn't a whole lot of room with a 4" grinder, so be careful. The grinder went through each pin easily in less than a minute each.
-I then set the end of the pry bar on top of the lower half of each pin and hit the bar with a hammer a couple of times to knock them out. Obviously, you do the same with the upper halves of the pins. The lower halves required more force because that is the end with the serated head ( the new pins should have the same). I used a bit of WD40 to make things easier.
-The bushings on the lower hinge were completely shot, with the ends split and splayed out. The top bushings were bad, but not *as* bad.
-I broke the bushing pieces out with visegrips and pulled the bushings out.
-When you put the new bushings in, make sure that you do not damage them by putting them in crooked or hammering them directly with a hammer. I used the square prybar shaft for a buffer and hammered them into the hinge and used a trailer hitch bar on the back of a Ford F250 as an anvil.
-There are actually two different ways to re-attach the hinges and door. The first suggestion would be the recommended.

First method:
-Bolt the door half of the hinges back onto the door in exactly the same locations as they were before, whether you marked the location, or used the paint impressions/dust.
-With the pins ready in hand and your buddy/slave, lift the door into alignment on the hinges and push the pins through.
-I then used the prybar to seat the pins all the way by pressing down on the head of the pin and up against the upper hinge bolt.
-Press the retainer clips into place at the bottom of each hingepin. There are two slots on each pin. Use the upper slot, it should be flush with the bottom of the hinge if the pin is in all the way.
-Shut your door. Admire your work and have a brewsky.

Second method:
-Before attaching the hinge to the door, align each hinge and slide each pin through.
-Lift the door up to the hinges and screw in the hinge bolts to less than snug.
-Position the hinge on the door exactly where it was before according to your markings. Tighten one bolt on the top hinge and align the bottom hinge the same way. Tighten one bolt on the lower hinge.
-Check the alignment by shutting the door. You may have some adjustments to make. When aligned, tighten the remaining bolts on each door.
-Downside to this method: Hard to see markings to realign door. Also, the end of the pin gets in the way of doing up the lower bolt of each hinge.
-Shut your door. Admire your work and have a brewsky.

The Striker bolt replacement is clear. Mark it's location, buy the T50 Torx head bit and put the new bolt back exactly as marked.

Clean up the mess you made and return tools you borrowed.

Hope this helps and isn't too confusing.

Brad

Last edited by soop; 10-05-2002 at 04:24 PM.
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-20-2002, 06:29 PM
 
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That's awesome, I went ahead and bought two of the p/n 38410 hoping you would have good luck with it. I'll probably do mine tomorrow then.

Do you care if I take your instructions/experience you shared and right them into a Technical Article? Maybe we can get Sir William to post it as a new or second post for the fix. The current article leaves something to be desired....
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-20-2002, 06:33 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Silkwood
That's awesome, I went ahead and bought two of the p/n 38410 hoping you would have good luck with it. I'll probably do mine tomorrow then.

Do you care if I take your instructions/experience you shared and right them into a Technical Article? Maybe we can get Sir William to post it as a new or second post for the fix. The current article leaves something to be desired....
yeah, no worries. Are they clear enough to work with?
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 09-20-2002, 09:47 PM
 
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Definately, you did a great job. I'll do mine tomorrow, take a few notes, see how well it flows, and then dump it into a nice document. Hopefully nobody else has to go through the same trouble we had to in order to get the right answers.
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-23-2009, 01:34 AM
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Dorman Help # 38438 now for one Hinge Pin, two bushings, one c-clip carded, available Rock Auto or Advance, Auto Zone, etc. It goes in same direction as old one comes out, the circlip end same as the peened over end of the original. The pin and two bushings fit the stock hinges with no drilling, unless you have to weld up a wobbled out hole and redrill it. The pin goes in from bottom up on driver's side, the hole in the bottom part of car body side of hinge is larger that the top hole. The pin in serrated at it's head, so that's why that hole is bigger.

I made a jig to cradle the door bottom from wood after making cardboard template fitting lower edge of door and inside like others. I cut two pieces of plywood to it, made it slightlty short, spaced apart with nailed / glued 10" 2x4s, and simply add blocks under center so it can rock to angle of door in use. Then I padded it, used a jack under the car to raise it slightly, set cradle in place, eased jack down just to take weight off door hinges. Ground peened end smooth with Dremel tool, knocked old pin out through bottom with long punch and hammer, and removed drivers door portion and cleaned it and fit the new bushings. The bushings were a snug perfect fit in holes, I used pin to line the bushings up. Slip hinge half back in place, inser pin from bottom on drivers side, tapped home with hammer, install circlip. Insert bolts, tighten with 13 mm wrench.

Oil them.

Perfect fit and fix.

Dorman Help # 38445 now for the Striker Bolt, bushing, and back support. The bushing is correct. This is the metric threaded one, M10x1.5. I know it fits 89-93, I put these on my '92 Bird Sport but I haven't looked at the ones on the '94 up. Might check.

I used the new striker bolt and bushing, the bolt is identical to OE, the bushing fits either. I did reuse the OE back support and two base gasket / washers as the OE was of slightly thicker metal and it fit snug against the head of the strike bolt better. The support is threaded slightly and the bolt is easily removed by simply turning it. T-50 is best fit, but a quality T-45 socket works.

My plastic rollers at 140,000 plus were perfect. I replaced one lower drivers side hinge pin and both strikers, though pass side striker was OK. It's in the package hanging with a second hinge pin as a spare. Seems they also fit my Merc GM and the hinge pin fits my '95 Bird as well.

A fine pair ... ... and whatever you do, Have a Safe Trip!

Last edited by CrystalPistol; 11-24-2009 at 12:42 PM.
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