How do I affix SC side mouldings - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-18-2002, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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How do I affix SC side mouldings

I have side mouldings from an SC to go onto my XR7.

What I don't have, are any of the metal tabs that the pieces fit into.

Do I need to buy them, fabricate something, or go without and figure another way to make them work?

1992 Mercury Cougar XR7 5.0 - Rust In Pieces
1995 Mercury Cougar XR7, rust free Florida car - future 5.0 project
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 07:52 AM
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Re: How do I affix SC side mouldings

Quote:
Originally posted by MercCougarXR7
I have side mouldings from an SC to go onto my XR7.

What I don't have, are any of the metal tabs that the pieces fit into.

Do I need to buy them, fabricate something, or go without and figure another way to make them work?
You defintely need those metal brackets to make them fit.They are riveted to the body and the ground effescts slide over the top of them and you bolt them to the bottom of the car.
Chris

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, thanks Chris,

Do you or anybody know where the best place to get them is? Think Ford would still stock them?

And, I assume they just drill into the body? How about where to put them - just guess????
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 11:31 AM
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You might try Ford.....

Quote:
Originally posted by MercCougarXR7
Ok, thanks Chris,

Do you or anybody know where the best place to get them is? Think Ford would still stock them?

And, I assume they just drill into the body? How about where to put them - just guess????
I once put GT ground effects on an 87 Mustang coupe back in 88 and I went through Ford to get the brackets.They gave me all the rivets also but they were plastic.I used aluminium instead because they are stronger and wont corrode as quick as regular rivets.
Yes,you have to drill into the body,just be careful and use the right drill bit or the rivet wont grip.Plus make sure it is a good one or you will be there all day.Best is if you set the ground effects on and use a white grease pencil to make an outline and then just eye ball the brackets to where you think they should be.
Good luck,it is easy but just takes time and patience,
Chris

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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OK, that's some good advice - thanks Chris.

BTW - did you see my other post about part numbers for the metal clips?
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 02:36 PM
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No....I didnt see that post

Quote:
Originally posted by MercCougarXR7
OK, that's some good advice - thanks Chris.

BTW - did you see my other post about part numbers for the metal clips?
I will look for it though.Where is it at?
Good Luck,
Chris

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 03:14 PM
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What clips?

I attached my sideskirts to the lx with self tapping sheetmetal screws, and automotive grade 3m doublestick tape. It is solid, and has been on the car two years.

Justin

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 03:17 PM
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You could go that route also but.....

How did you do it with sheet metal screws?Did you go the whole way through the urethane?
I would like to know about that,
Chris

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 03:45 PM
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Re: You could go that route also but.....

You gotta get the car up in the air enough to get your drill gun under the car, so you can drill up. The 3m tape goes on the plastic sideskirt before you try to screw it to the car.

Justin

Quote:
Originally posted by LX-Tasy
How did you do it with sheet metal screws?Did you go the whole way through the urethane?
I would like to know about that,
Chris
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 03:52 PM
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Re: Re: You could go that route also but.....

Quote:
Originally posted by JustinH
You gotta get the car up in the air enough to get your drill gun under the car, so you can drill up. The 3m tape goes on the plastic sideskirt before you try to screw it to the car.

Justin

I understand that but what do you actually have holding the top of the effects up?That is where you would really need the brackets to hold them up.The tops of the ground effects actually slide down over the brackets acting like a catch and then you have to pull the ground effects tight down around and finish it off with the screwing the bottom on.
Just something to think about before you go screwing things,just playing on that.
Chris

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 05:09 PM
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Re: Re: Re: You could go that route also but.....

Quote:
Originally posted by LX-Tasy

I understand that but what do you actually have holding the top of the effects up?That is where you would really need the brackets to hold them up.The tops of the ground effects actually slide down over the brackets acting like a catch and then you have to pull the ground effects tight down around and finish it off with the screwing the bottom on.
Just something to think about before you go screwing things,just playing on that.
Chris
I have 3m automotive grade double stick tape holding up the top. It is not going anywhere. The brackets are not necessary. I have had it on my car for two years, without any ill effects.

Justin
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 06:49 PM
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Re: Re: Re: Re: You could go that route also but.....

Quote:
Originally posted by JustinH


I have 3m automotive grade double stick tape holding up the top. It is not going anywhere. The brackets are not necessary. I have had it on my car for two years, without any ill effects.

Justin
All I can say is lucky you.I dont mean that in a smart a$$ way either.I have seen people use double sided tape and it would last a month if that.The key to using that is the surface HAS to be clean,if you think it is clean do it again.
Chris

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2002, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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My question was for how to attach the top - the bottom is the easy part .

I'm a bit leary of double sided tape.

A suggestion I've had from a friend is to use 'urethane', the stuff they use to put in windsheilds. All you have to do is scuff up the surfaces where it's to be used, squirt, stick, and BAM - it's on there.

But I don't like that idea either.

I have a post on SCCoA, and someone replied that I should get the Mustang piece, but 4 of the longest ones available, and shorten them to the correct length.

To me, that's the BEST way to do it, it'll give it something solid to hang from. Then I can really 'stretch' them over the bottom for a nice smooth looking piece.

I should mention too - there's no rush. Turns out the whole rocker will need replacing/fixing first - it's kinda rotting out, and NEEDS to be fixed before the ground panels go on. I'll just 1/2 *** fix it (ie., hack out the rust, mig weld on a cover piece, tremclad paint - done) and attach the ground panels then.

Thanks guys,

Kevin.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-20-2002, 11:04 AM
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: You could go that route also but.....

This is not cheapo stuff you find at autozone. This is automotive grade 3m brand tape used in body shops. A decent sized roll cost me thirty bucks.

It depends on the quality of the stuff you use.

Justin

Quote:
Originally posted by LX-Tasy

All I can say is lucky you.I dont mean that in a smart a$$ way either.I have seen people use double sided tape and it would last a month if that.The key to using that is the surface HAS to be clean,if you think it is clean do it again.
Chris
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-21-2002, 12:54 AM
 
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you could also make your own brackets from sheet metal that is about 1 3/4" wide, and i forget length, thats where the measuring tape comes in handy. -greg
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-20-2002, 11:55 PM
 
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my ground effects are starting to come off on the corners at tehe top. i've been trying to think of a way to fix this for a while. will this 3m tapw ork for me? and if so where can i get *high quality* tape and for how much?
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