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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-11-2005, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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problems with painting on GFX

Hey, i have the xenon kit and i know its urethane, so it will bend if it hits anything. I was wondering what's the best way to prevent the paint from chipping off of it. And if any of you all have a problem with the paint chipping?

Basically the spots in my wheel wells where they are screwed into chip ALOT.

please let the stupid comments out...(ie. don't hit/rub anything) thanks.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-11-2005, 04:58 PM
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My sister used to have a dodge datona sport. It had all the body kit stuff. Anyway, the gentle man that painted it the last time prior to selling(car was painted 5 times in the 13 years she had it) . Had this special three step process and clear coat stuff that was supposed to strenghen the paints adhesion to to urithane. Call or email some of the high end paint companys. This was about five years ago. But it was wierd kinda like a rubbery clear coat? Just figured I would point you in a good direction.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-11-2005, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I appreciate the info. I'll have to look into that.

Just wondering if anyone has any of these problems, or if it just wasn't prepped right by the paint shop.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-11-2005, 09:00 PM
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raw plastic prep.

#1 Scuff part with grey scotchbrite, wet with soapy water solution. get the backside too. the purpose here it to scuff for mechanical adhesion and remove silicone mold release agents left from the molding process.

Rinse

#2 scuff again, using a water/alcohol solution. 50/50. be thourough(sp) with the scuff getting every last cemtimeter. rinse agian.

#3 dry well, and inspect the part. fix any gouges with 500 grit and/or filler putty. part should be perfect to the touch. if you can feel a scratch with your finger, it WILL show up in the paint. now is the time to address this stuff. part should be uniformly scuffed and dulled all over. edges, corners, everything. do not half-a$$ this step.

Painting process starts with a wax/grease remover solvent wash, wipe away all traces of cleaner. This is best left to a good body shop.

#1 wipe with tack cloth all over, get all the dust off.

#2 first coat of paint is plastic adhesion promoter called Bulldog or equivelant. readily available in spraybombs. this is good stuff. mist on the coats, 3 light coats. wait between coats, do not run this stuff.

#3 base color, spray till covered, 3- 5 coats. again, do not run this stuff. be patient. add hardner to the base to increase flexibility and chip resistance. Many painters will not add the hardner cause it takes longer to flash. However, it is critical with urethane parts.

#4 Clear. this is where you add the flex agents. to the clear. If your paint system allows, see if you can use the same hardner in the clear that you used in the base. this will add a small bit of insurance, helping keep shrinkage rates uniform between layers and provide adhesion on a molecular level.

The fact is this. all modern urethanes are quite flexable, but paint does NOT stretch. if you hit something, the paints gonna crack from the stretch, i.e. lack of tensile strength. But as you heard before, it's 90% in the prep, parts need to be really, really clean, and scuffed well.

Hope this helps explain the process. there are many ways to do this. this is my method.

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-11-2005, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyneff
..... And if any of you all have a problem with the paint chipping? thanks.
I've scraped the paint off the bottom corners on some driveways but the paint has not chipped.

[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by JR Tigerstar; 04-03-2005 at 04:31 PM.
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