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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-23-2006, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Why Do The Doors Rust So Easily?

I had a 91 and 94 Tbird and no matter how much I tried to take care of them the doors rotted out starting on the inside bottom of the doors. Now I'm looking to buy a 96 or 97 and everyone I look at has some pretty bad rust in the same place.

I live in NY so salt is a problem but I've never seen a 89-91 Tbird that didn't have rust on the inside bottom of the door. Why do they rust so easily? Is there a drainage problem in the doors? Is there a way to stop the rust once it starts?

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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-24-2006, 01:10 AM
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I'm going to try to put the rubber undercoating at the bottoms of mine and see what happens

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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-24-2006, 05:58 PM
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I theink the window seal is junk and lets the water in and plus it's a seam and air can't dry it out

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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-24-2006, 07:19 PM
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I have a 94 LX (owned it for just over 4 yrs), from Michigan/Iowa, that's never been garaged (outside the past 6 mos) and the only rusting I have is about midway up the rockers on the weld line. The ones I've looked at that are rusted in the doors have shot seals. Armor-all up your seals regularly and you shouldn't have a problem.

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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-24-2006, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Is it true that spraying WD40 along the bottom of the door can stop the rust from forming?
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-24-2006, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dust N Bones
Is it true that spraying WD40 along the bottom of the door can stop the rust from forming?
Not from my experience (not with the door, but other car/non-car stuff). I think it'll just delay the spread of surface rusting until the layer wipes off.

I used this stuff (the can was old as $(%^ so I didn't think it'd work), but it was supposed to stop rust and I sprayed it on a random assortment of undercarriage stuff and it worked amazingly. I'd give you name, but I'm 600 miles away from home for the summer.

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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-25-2006, 04:15 AM
 
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I've used Dinitrol on the whole undercarriage and inside ever little whole I can find... Inside the doors, removed the rear speakers and pour it down there...
Removed the front and rear bumper and spray iy all over there...
And on all the places I could reach with at brush I've "painted" on the
thicker Dinitrol... It doesn't stop the rust if it's already there but it stops it from
forming... Took me about two days to do it and two weeks to get clean again..
But I do recommend using it...

http://www.dinitrol.com/

//Per
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-25-2006, 08:38 AM
 
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also you can take off your door panles once every few months and clean the bottom of the door and drip a little trans fluid that will help alot. but the thing is there is no one fix or one time fix you have to do stuff over and over.
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-25-2006, 09:07 AM
 
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for the rust get some por 15 it's paint over rust. I used it on my pass door on the inside and it work's beautifully. expensive though like $35 for a quart or pint I forget. Check on ebay.

I thought that the rockers rusted cause the water get's in there and there's no way to get it out like the small drain holes get clogged or somethin like that.
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-25-2006, 11:25 AM
 
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yea por15 is the poop. and is strong stuff. I was going with if you have clean door and how to prevent rust from happening.
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-29-2006, 02:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dust N Bones
Why do they rust so easily?
Because it's a Ford.

Same company that made the Aerostar.

I'm also from the snow belt but luckily my car is from Texas. As we know it's days are numbered.

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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-29-2006, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97qwikcat
for the rust get some por 15 it's paint over rust. I used it on my pass door on the inside and it work's beautifully. expensive though like $35 for a quart or pint I forget. Check on ebay.

I thought that the rockers rusted cause the water get's in there and there's no way to get it out like the small drain holes get clogged or somethin like that.
So that por15 is for when the car has already started to rust? Is it supposed to stop the rust from spreading or just slow it down?
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-29-2006, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfsram
Because it's a Ford.
4 words for you: Chevy pickup cab corners

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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-29-2006, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cougar_guy04
4 words for you: Chevy pickup cab corners
I think I offended someone.

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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-29-2006, 06:05 PM
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I think I offended someone.
Nah, I'm just saying there are things that rust a lot worse than our cars

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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-30-2006, 10:10 PM
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por15, and what I use called Master Coat (we call it silver stuff), both seal rust.. so it doesn't rust anymore.. it's best to clean scale off so you have something solid to apply it to. I don't think it'll help on the bottom of the doors though. It'll help appearance for a while on the outside, but it'll probably pop back through or finish rusting to the outside of the door. The bottom is where the outer skin folds over to the other side.. which usually gets seam-sealed from the factory to prevent water from getting in it. I think what usually causes the rust to pop up is from water getting inside the door and setting in at the bottom where the outer skin and bottom outer shell for the inside of the door come together. That's why I don't think applying it over the rust on the outside will cure it. If you can pour some on the inside so it covers the joint where the metal comes together inside the bottom of the door, that may help. POR15 isn't supposed to be applied over bare metal and it doesn't thin out very well unless you use *their* thinner, the plain black rust sealer is also UV senstive. Last time I tried to thin it out and applied some over bare metal, it started flaking. I grabbed a chip and peeled it right off like onion skin. MasterCoat Silver is generally ok on most surfaces.

a black car.
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-04-2006, 12:08 AM
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ok now hes gone and done it...."because its a ford" ......i work in a bodyshop, what kind of vehicles do we fix the most of with rust problems, uh how about gm products...hmm alero quarter panels, aurora quarter panels, silverado rockers and car corners (usually dont make it to 80k). cavaliers cavaliers cavaliers, oh and did i mention the door hinges fall off s-10's/blazers because the metal is weak and they corrode and rust off, its always nice when yur wife calls from the grocery store and says honey you need to come get me because my door fell off......cmon......wake up and smell the coffee....if you are going to bash fords go somewhere else and do it!

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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-04-2006, 10:38 AM
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Yes Gary, I know some GM's are prone to rust too. Cavalier doors, rear frames on rwd Monte Carlos, Cutlasses.

I've smelled the coffee and love my Ford. You guys need to wake up and smell it too. These cars are far from perfect and they ALL have their faults.
Lots of Fords rust prematurely and lots of Fords have the pluses too and if it were not for the pluses I wouldn't be driving one.

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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-11-2006, 11:23 PM
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well i agree with gary i just finished autobody school last october and guys these car's are nothing .I has to work on a 82 elcamino with another kid for one of our class project's.I have never seen a car so bad with rust.I took us forever just to get the roll pan molded in for the guy because we had to make so many damn patch panels. the lower quater panels where horrible.If you just keep the drainage holes clean in the doors so the water can drain they won't rust.I clean my door jambs everytime i was my car.I wash mine sometimes twice a week full detail at 3 hours eachtime inside and out.I just takes weekly maintance. duh!!
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-02-2006, 06:46 PM
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Rust

Poor drainage and small areas for water to collect area perfect place for rust to start. Be sure the drain holes are clear and open first. Undercoating or a good metal primer should slow or stop rust from forming.

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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 12:52 PM
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THREAD RESURRECTION!! I had this rust starting last year on my passenger door so I took the interior door panel off and sandblasted the affected area, primed and painted. That was in the fall and I can already see rust color on the new paint. I was thinking, would it have been better to somehow peel the door skin away on the bottom of the inside, sandblast and seal it before pinching it back together. Then go ahead and prime and paint? Has anyone tried this? I'm no body expert just had a feeling I should have tried this as soon as I finished painting it but it was too late then and I figured it would last longer than it has. By the way the metal is still in really good shape not eaten away or anything like that.

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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 02:26 PM
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I just sanded the bottom and painted it. but, after all that I grabbed a can of spray on undercoating and hit the bottom of the door on the inside. hopefully nothing else will rust up.
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 04:29 PM
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Only problem is that I assume the rust is inside the little lip of the door skin and unless you get ALL of it out it's just going to keep coming back regardless of what you put over it. My paint is performance white so any little bit of rust stands out on it. I sandblasted the area clean and gave it two coats of primer and two or three coats of performance white and here we are three months later with it starting to show again.

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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CougarXR/7 View Post
Poor drainage and small areas for water to collect area perfect place for rust to start. Be sure the drain holes are clear and open first. Undercoating or a good metal primer should slow or stop rust from forming.
Where are these drain holes located?

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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 05:32 PM
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I've had the inside panels off just last summer ... some dust yes ... but NO RUST.

Must be a northern "rust belt" problem. Make sure drain holes are clear, and if you catch one before rust starts, seal the surface with something like brushable seam sealer or etc .... but leave them drains open.

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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 05:38 PM
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You can peel door skins off and replace so yeah, that would be ideal way to stop the rust in the fold.
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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 05:53 PM
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rust

For what its worth.... I have an 89 SC with 101K mi on it from WISCONSIN... rust capitol of the world (except Detroit). There is NO rust at the bottom of the passenger door, or anywhere else on the car. I admit it was stored most winters, but it was driven some too. This car was "Ziebart" rust proofed when new and I credit that rustproofing for most of the protection this car received. I asssure you if I ever own another new car it will also be rustproofed in a like manner.

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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 09:45 PM
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This car's never been driven in the winter. I will try to peel back the lip next spring and sandblast down inside, seal it all up and repaint it. A friend said they make a body tool to peel it back, does anyone know of such a tool? Where are these drain holes located around the car?

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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-20-2009, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrystalPistol View Post
I've had the inside panels off just last summer ... some dust yes ... but NO RUST.

Must be a northern "rust belt" problem. Make sure drain holes are clear, and if you catch one before rust starts, seal the surface with something like brushable seam sealer or etc .... but leave them drains open.
Do you mean the interior door panels? I took that off to do the work along with the weatherseal. The rust wasn't under the panel, it was on the bottom where the exterior door skin has a half inch or so that folds over onto the interior steel portion of the door.

teksid block with forged internals, MHS stage 2 heads and cams, 80 mm 03 Mustang MAF, Bullitt intake with Accufab oval throttle body, Kooks headers, 2.5 inch catless true dual exhaust, w/x pipe and Magnaflow Magnapacks, Dirty Dog 3000 stall marauder tq converter, BC automotive built 4R70w transmission ,MMX Dynotech Drive shaft, Trac loc differential with 3.73's, custom made fssb, and lecb, rear shock tower brace by Azzkickers, JL subframe connectors, Eibach 1.5" lowering springs, koni shocks, dyno tune by Tim Barth at Mr Norm's garage
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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-21-2009, 01:00 AM
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Not a spec of rust on my doors .. no snow here.

I just worked on a Canadian SC recently .. rust had eaten the underside of the car all the way through along the bottom rockers / rear subframe area.
Doors were pretty bad too.

It has to be the salt on the roads and lack of body sealant / under body coating that makes the cars rust where they do.

Seaside air cars tend have pretty much rust everywhere. Even in areas where the Ocean air fog rolls in.

Cars that have rust along the bottom doors / underside were probably driven in the winter.

Best way to prevent it .. body seam sealer applied over both parts of the seams .. inside the door would be good to have a layer of Wax up to the drip holes. Door skin's interior metal is not painted from the factory, but the metal was dipped with a corrosion inhibitor at one point in time. Dont know how well that lasts against the elements.
Seam sealer is all over these cars .. but it is lacking on many places including the doors and lower door jambs ( you can see where it is brushed in lightly if you remove the plastic trim to expose the seam there also .. )
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