The PI intake manifold can’t physically supply the amount of airflow it will take to breathe at 6500rpm. You can get it there if you want but you’ll just be making noise, not speed. A stroker bottom end isn’t going to help you in the rev department either.
The redline on the stock SHO tach face(not scott’s Faces) is 7K RPM for the record. The 94-96 tachometer doesn’t have the number 7 printed but it’s marked to 7k, so you’re not gaining much information, and having that one extra number is basically about as useful to you as a 200mph speedometer. Resolution is key IF you’re depending on the tachometer for shifts(ie manual trans or valve body) and neither factory tach is that accurate anyway, but between the two, keeping in mind my 4V will keep making power up to ~6800(not that I shift there), I still choose the 94-96 tach simply because it’s that much easier to read from a glance than the 1/3 smaller 97/SHO tach with their more cluttered together hash marks.
To each their own, there are pros and cons to both clusters. If you want the best functioning setup you make an aftermarket cluster like maddmartigan.
Like I said, it was in the car when I bought it. I like the look, see no reason to change.
IF I ever get the boss crate shortblock (which is mostly square with a 3.7" bore and 3.75" stroke) it'll have a trick flow top end on it to feed it fuel and air at the upper RPM's. Square engines LOVE rpm, and the boss crate shortblock has been proven to make 460+hp with Trick Flow 2v upper end parts, and have a good flat torque curve throughout the rev range. Do I "need" that power? Nope. But it'll be fun.
I am probably going to end up replacing my PI intake eventually as I think it may have been weeping a little, and I know I don't have any real choices (the Typhoon is basically a metal version of the PI, I can get another PI, or I can get one of two Trick Flow units, both of which push the powerband up due to how they flow, and both of which cost a lot). My car right now again doesn't "need" an 8k tach, none of our cars really "needs" a 140+ speedo either, but we still like them, don't we?
Eventually I'll be dropping a manual in, have the pedals, have lots of supporting parts, just need a transmission, flywheel, clutch, and that'll happen eventually.
Once I have the engine in the car (this coming month I hope!), it will get dyno tuned for the final part of the tune process, so I'll post up numbers once it's together.
97 Thunderbird LX (The GT Bird)
2003 Explorer WAP block with Modular Head Shop "street ported" heads and Stage 2 PI NA cams, 75mm Accufab throttle body, C&L upper intake plenum, Kooks 1.75" primary/3" collector headers, 2.5" full exhaust with mid mount Magnaflow dual in/out muffler, 24lb/hr injectors, 80mm MAF, Tuning from Don @ www.lasotaracing.com
, CAI that feeds from fenderwell. Jmod, 3.73:1 TL in Mark VIII carrier, Mark VIII aluminum LCAs, 93 Mark VIII driveshaft, PBR brakes (soon to be Cobras), 18x9 wheels with 35mm offset, 255/40/ZR18 Tires, Front and Rear strut/shock bracing, GR-2 shocks, Eibach 1.5" springs, 1989 SC front and rear sway bars.