Yea, I've seen guys take portable blow torches to Nitrous bottles at the drag strip. It's way too much hassle for me to keep up with.
I'll just dump moonshine and gasoline in the tank and washer fluid in the methanol tank and go. Nitrous is way to complicated for my liking.
Nitrous refills are a bitch too. Which grade Nitrous do you use Steve? Where do you source it? How much is it for a bottle fill? How many runs or "hits" do you get out of a bottle on a 125 shot?
I did a quick search locally and found the following Nitrous refill prices. What do you usually pay Steve? I'll stick with washer fluid (~20% methanol) at $3 to $4 a gallon.
10 lb. bottle-$50
15 lb. bottle-$75
20 lb. bottle-$100
Fill ‘Er Up in 8 (Not So) Easy Steps
- Cool off the race bottle.
- Heat up the mother bottle, never using a flame.
- Position the mother bottle at a higher elevation than the race bottle.
- Connect the transfer line, filter, and fill valve to each bottle.
- Open the mother bottle valve and fill valve.
- Open the race bottle valve and listen for the nitrous entering the bottle. Close the valves to stop the flow of nitrous.
- Weigh the race bottle and if necessary, continue filling until the correct bottle weight is achieved.
- Close both bottle valves and disconnect the fill line, being careful that excess nitrous exiting the line doesn’t contact your skin.
It's also worth noting that:
Auto Grade Nitrous
Nitrous is used to speed engines for auto racing. High performance racing shops sell the tanks and feeder units to inject nitrous into the carburetors. They also sell bulk nitrous gas. But there is a catch: the gas is mixed, generally (always?) with hydrogen sulfide (the rotten egg gas) which will make anyone breathing it VERY ill. (There is evidence that hydrogen sulfide can cause permanent damage to lung tissues and nerve endings.)
One reader writes in:
... hydrogen sulfide (H2S) is one of the most dangerous neurotoxins there is. There have been reports of individuals going into a sewer and not testing for H2S and being DOA after only one lung full. It is incredibly nasty. It also causes olfactory overload with only one breath. In other words, you get one smell then you can't smell it any more so you don't realize that you are on your merry way to the grave. I would never do the auto grade of nitrous but if that is the way someone wants to go then bubble it through a lye (get it from the hardware store) and water - about 1 heaping tablespoon per qt. of water.
So before you can inhale racing grade nitrous, you must filter out the hydrogen sulfide. This is done by bubbling the gas through a strong basic solution: either lye or baking soda. Here are some comments on purification of nitrous. If you aren't a chemistry major, you should probably not fool around with auto grade nitrous.
Obtaining Nitrous Oxide
Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. FusionŽ Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour
"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE
. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP
at Rob's Tire & Auto