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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Securing Car to Trailer

Are the "assembly holes/tabs" acceptable to use for tie downs when securing the car on a trailer?

I'm calling the "assembly holes/tabs" the part welded to the frame that the assembly line used to move the car along during the assembly process. The front ones are near the sway bar (and have to be cut off it you're replacing the sway bar...)

I'm trying to decide whether to go with tire bonnets (which I'm leaning towards) or just straps to the holes/tabs (or both ).

What do you guys/gals use?

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 09:57 AM
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Just wrap the tie downs around the lower control arms.Thats what I always found to be the easiest and safest, at least you know if the car does move its not going to break the control arm off.
Chris

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 12:21 PM
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They make universal tie downs to go in the assembly tabs (if we are thinking of the same thing) they usually have four or five keys that slide into those holes and are attached to a ring, then just hook your straps to the ring. It makes it much easier than trying to figure out how to fit a strap into those holes. When we tied down my cougar we used those holes up front and since my reciever hitch fills the holes in the back and the hitch is bolted in 4 major spots we just tied directly to that.

Now, ideally, to do it right you should use tire nets. Those things are the cats meow.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyman00
They make universal tie downs to go in the assembly tabs (if we are thinking of the same thing) they usually have four or five keys that slide into those holes and are attached to a ring, then just hook your straps to the ring. It makes it much easier than trying to figure out how to fit a strap into those holes. When we tied down my cougar we used those holes up front and since my reciever hitch fills the holes in the back and the hitch is bolted in 4 major spots we just tied directly to that.

Now, ideally, to do it right you should use tire nets. Those things are the cats meow.
I knew they had them, but I didn't know what they were called, so I searched under "tow truck accessories" and found this:

http://www.awdirect.com/awdirect/cat...ion&linkid=110

Cool... makes life easier.

97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC (Chip'd, 3.73 T/L... so far... )
97 Ford Aspire (Slow, but getting 36 mpg (f'n Ethenol!! )
84 F250 Dually w/6.9L Diesel (7.3L IDI pending)
73 Mercury Cougar Convertible w/351C 4V (Partially Restored)
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 01:01 PM
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Yeah you got it. If it were me I would get a couple of these so you can haul different vehicles:

http://www.awdirect.com/awdirect/cat...ion&linkid=110
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 01:19 PM
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 02:37 PM
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I wouldn't tie down to the assembly tabs unless you intend to completely collapse the suspension on the car. If you intend to let the car ride on it's suspension then use the tires or lower control arms as they will not move when the car rides up and down.

Just think of the shock load on a tiedown connected to the tabs with the car bouncing up and down and banging on the straps.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LX-Tasy
Just wrap the tie downs around the lower control arms.Thats what I always found to be the easiest and safest, at least you know if the car does move its not going to break the control arm off.
Chris
That works good except every time I have done that I had to spend 60 bucks for a front end alignment.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 07:15 PM
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I do agree, I wouldn't go long distances using the assembly tabs. For reasons SCrazy mentioned. Then I definetly would go with tire nets, I am too afraid to tie to the control arms. For short hauls I wouldn't suppose it to be too terrible using the assembly tabs.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman_72
That works good except every time I have done that I had to spend 60 bucks for a front end alignment.


Lol, I didnt say wrap it around the rack.If you go under the rack and through the lower control arm you would be ok.Spend the extra 120 and get a lifetime alignment.
Chris

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2005, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LX-Tasy
Lol, I didnt say wrap it around the rack.If you go under the rack and through the lower control arm you would be ok.Spend the extra 120 and get a lifetime alignment.
Chris
That's exactly what I have done. Only around the control arm not the steering rack. The control arms are adjusted during the alignment process, too. As far as the lifetime alignment, I would like to do that but I don't know anywhere around here that does that.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-26-2005, 06:34 AM Thread Starter
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Looks like I'll get the wheel bonnets. I'll probably hook to the frame tabs if I haul the Aspire since the "D" Rings in the floor are set for an MN12/FN10 platform and no way would they line up for the Aspire.. Oh wait, I could put the Aspire in the trunk of the T’Bird and then just haul the T’Bird…

97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC (Chip'd, 3.73 T/L... so far... )
97 Ford Aspire (Slow, but getting 36 mpg (f'n Ethenol!! )
84 F250 Dually w/6.9L Diesel (7.3L IDI pending)
73 Mercury Cougar Convertible w/351C 4V (Partially Restored)
69 F100 LWB w/460 Engine
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2005, 08:52 AM
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90 tie down

Hello

When I take my 90 Thunderbird Circle track Street Stock I use the front Chassis bar. At the rear i use the inner lower control arms on both sides.

Remember if your trailer has suspension with tire nets a bad road surface could get magnified threw your cars suspension. Mostly when braking your car will experance alot of front dive, pushing your tow vehicle.

I don't travel to far to my track.

Paul

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