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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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I went to the track today

Took the car to Sacramento Raceway today...first time I have ever run a car down the track....ever....the first run was absolutely horrible. I spun and spun and spun and spun and fishtailed off the line and eventually had to let off or else I would have crashed into the wall...I ran a 17.619 @ 89MPH and was beat by an acura integra

Now the second run was different...better, not as good as I would have hoped, but better. I did not spin off the line, barked 1-2 AND the 2-3 tranny shifts...I have NEVER EVER EVER heard it bark into 3rd gear...so that was cool. I ran a 14.992 @ 92 MPH and beat a red Pontiac Grand Prix GTP

Here are my timeslips I am "Left Lane" and "car # 3809" BTW sorry about the large photo, it's the only way my scanner would give anything that I could actually read...



I only ran twice -- I wanted to run more, and the track was absolutely empty tonight...probably because of the weather...it was cold and we just missed the rain. After my second run, my transmission fluid temp was at 200 degrees, according to my scan guage...I'm not sure what the problem is lately, but the trans has been running hot...so, I parked it and let it cool off, so as not to destroy anything...gonna do a fluid/filter flush and add a trans cooler and maybe do a J-MOD to the trans before I take it to the track again...but definately fun and I think it will run low to mid 14s all day long if I can just get some practace in...

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 12:21 AM
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Keep practicing and you can lop off some more time.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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that's what I figure...I got my times down considerably on the second run...next time I am going to run the car at Infineon Raceway...from what I hear it's a better track...

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 03:33 AM
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I'm not sure what the definition of "better" is but relatively speaking Infineon is a slower track than Sacramento Raceway. Sac raceway is known for fast times if you can hook up... meaning if your car is on the lower side of the power scale you should be able to run a "fast" time for your particular vehicle. There is good reason why there are MANY records set at Sacramento Raceway. I personally know 2 people that hold E/T records set at Sacramento Raceway.

As far as getting your time down, I have personally found that running on Saturday (test n tune) will help you cut your short times down. Why? Because Saturdays they prep the track much better as normally there are single digit cars running. Saturday costs more than Wednesday, when I went in February it was $50. However, on Saturday you normally get more runs in as well, because the crowd is less you can let your car cool down (more power) and run when you feel your intake is nice and cool... there's not near as much pressure to get in line and get going ASAP as there is on Wednesday nights.

Now just a little advice that worked for me when I ran the car at Sac Raceway. Make double sure your tire pressure is HIGH up front, have it maxed out up front. In the rear I would do the same, have it high when you initially get to the track and each run experiment dropping tire pressure slightly (be mindful your on low profile tires). You didn't specify if you did a burnout but from what i've seen the best thing to do is go around the burnout box and just spin the tires quickly (dry)... basically just spin the rocks and debris crap off the tread. Do NOT smoke them up this will make you slower!

I'm glad you got into the 14's at least but your over half a second slower (my best is 14.3) than when I ran it, and I had run it on a hot day during the summer. I know when I ran the car I had the stereo box out, no spare, less than 1/4 tank of gas, and launched right about 1100 RPM and moderated the throttle out of the hole. OH i almost forgot try to deep stage as well...!
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 03:52 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure what the definition of "better" is but relatively speaking Infineon is a slower track than Sacramento Raceway. Sac raceway is known for fast times if you can hook up... meaning if your car is on the lower side of the power scale you should be able to run a "fast" time for your particular vehicle. There is good reason why there are MANY records set at Sacramento Raceway. I personally know 2 people that hold E/T records set at Sacramento Raceway.

As far as getting your time down, I have personally found that running on Saturday (test n tune) will help you cut your short times down. Why? Because Saturdays they prep the track much better as normally there are single digit cars running. Saturday costs more than Wednesday, when I went in February it was $50. However, on Saturday you normally get more runs in as well, because the crowd is less you can let your car cool down (more power) and run when you feel your intake is nice and cool... there's not near as much pressure to get in line and get going ASAP as there is on Wednesday nights.

Now just a little advice that worked for me when I ran the car at Sac Raceway. Make double sure your tire pressure is HIGH up front, have it maxed out up front. In the rear I would do the same, have it high when you initially get to the track and each run experiment dropping tire pressure slightly (be mindful your on low profile tires). You didn't specify if you did a burnout but from what i've seen the best thing to do is go around the burnout box and just spin the tires quickly (dry)... basically just spin the rocks and debris crap off the tread. Do NOT smoke them up this will make you slower!

I'm glad you got into the 14's at least but your over half a second slower (my best is 14.3) than when I ran it, and I had run it on a hot day during the summer. I know when I ran the car I had the stereo box out, no spare, less than 1/4 tank of gas, and launched right about 1100 RPM and moderated the throttle out of the hole. OH i almost forgot try to deep stage as well...!
wow, thanx .... I'll keep that stuff in mind next time...as it sits right now, subs are out (gonna go back in sometime soon, but they're out for now) spare tire is out since I'm wating on a 17 lincoln LS spare due to the front brake setup and the 16" spare not fitting over them...had just OVER a quarter tank of gas in it...I did a small burnout the first run...I did a bit of a larger burnout the second run...the people I was with said that maybe I had too much tire pressure after my first horrid run...I did not let any air out...the car has different tires on it now, 285/30Michelin Pilot Sport on the rear...has 265/35 Pirelli P-Zero on the front...those tires, and the fixed driver side motor mount (the bolt was gone!) have made a night and day differance in the way the car drives

My main concern is finding why the trans is getting so hot...this is something that just started within the last couple-three weeks...gonna do a flush on it and add a cooler...hopefully that will solve that problem...I really, really wanted to run it more, it was pretty cold out, and there wheren't so many cars, so it was almost no wait time in between runs...I'll get it back out there...I also want to run the scanguage performance meter on my next run to see how close to accurate it actually is. I am certain the car can run low 14s as it sits right now...I Just need to learn how to launch

higher stall converter probably wouldn't hurt either

oh, I also added a fold down rear seat, so it's just a little tiny bit heavier now

and....deep stage?

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Last edited by Earl; 04-01-2010 at 04:00 AM.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 08:37 AM
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good runs.....with practice, you will get better.......lots of it.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 06:38 PM
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and....deep stage?

Deep stage:

When you stage the car, there is 2 sets of double bulbs. When you come up to the start line, you will turn on the "Pre-Stage" lights, and you continue to move forward until you turn on the "Stage" lights. That is called normal staging. Shallow staging is turn on the Pre-Stage and creep forward until you the moment you turn on the Stage lights. You just want the Stage light to be turned on. Deep staging is you turn on the Pre-Stage and continue forward until you turn off the Pre-Stage lights but the Stage lights are lit. The top set of bulbs are turned off.

Shallow staging will give you the best MPH as you will get a little more rollout, however your reaction time suffers. For guys trying to get the best E.T. and MPH out of a car, this is what you want to do.

Deep staging will give you the best reaction time, however your E.T. and MPH will be lower than had you Shallow or normal staged. This is really useful for bracket racing. You dial the car in staging normally and when you go into the eliminations, you deep stage the car.

Personally I don't see any benefit to you to deep stage as the car will run slower. If you are into bracket racing, well then you may want to practice it. In your case, I would rather Shallow stage.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 07:34 PM
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Deep stage:

When you stage the car, there is 2 sets of double bulbs. When you come up to the start line, you will turn on the "Pre-Stage" lights, and you continue to move forward until you turn on the "Stage" lights. That is called normal staging. Shallow staging is turn on the Pre-Stage and creep forward until you the moment you turn on the Stage lights. You just want the Stage light to be turned on. Deep staging is you turn on the Pre-Stage and continue forward until you turn off the Pre-Stage lights but the Stage lights are lit. The top set of bulbs are turned off.

Shallow staging will give you the best MPH as you will get a little more rollout, however your reaction time suffers. For guys trying to get the best E.T. and MPH out of a car, this is what you want to do.

Deep staging will give you the best reaction time, however your E.T. and MPH will be lower than had you Shallow or normal staged. This is really useful for bracket racing. You dial the car in staging normally and when you go into the eliminations, you deep stage the car.

Personally I don't see any benefit to you to deep stage as the car will run slower. If you are into bracket racing, well then you may want to practice it. In your case, I would rather Shallow stage.
Oops did a dee dee dee last night. Meant shallow stage! Basically shallow staging will give you a bit of a running start before the clock starts. The amount you gain here is minimal but when your drag racing every little bit helps.

Earl, if your change in tires probably slowed you down some as well. Wider and taller isn't the best thing for a car with relatively low power (regarding 1/4 mile). When i ran i was using 245/40 and 275/35... so ever so slightly shorter and a little skinnier, this probably attributed to a SLIGHTLY better time as well. Still, even with the tire change you still should be low 14's because I ran the car on a summer day and taking into consideration Sacramento weather we can safely assume it was probably 90+ degrees.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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the tires that are on it now are actually much shorter all the way around...the car actually sits damn near one inch lower than it was before!! I was amazed at the all around differance these tires made...and the rear does not step out like it used to...i wish the trans had not risen to such temps...it wasnice and colt last night - that rain just ised us

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-01-2010, 11:15 PM
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whats all done to the car?
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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whats all done to the car?
PI cams, PI intake, tune from lonnie, 3.73 limited slip, steeda pullys

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 01:49 AM
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the tires that are on it now are actually much shorter all the way around...the car actually sits damn near one inch lower than it was before!! I was amazed at the all around differance these tires made...and the rear does not step out like it used to...i wish the trans had not risen to such temps...it wasnice and colt last night - that rain just ised us
1 inch lower when the tires before were 275/35? 35 series barely have any sidewall as it is...

Hmm if it's that much shorter you should definitely be low 14's. Strange your MPH is also low. I think i trapped at almost 95 if not at 95. It shouldn't be a difference of 3 mph especially considering the temperature change. Have you done a compression test or anything lately? 3 mph is quite a bit especially if I trapped at 95 during the dead of summer and you trapped 92 on an ice cold day.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 04:07 AM Thread Starter
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1 inch lower when the tires before were 275/35? 35 series barely have any sidewall as it is...

Hmm if it's that much shorter you should definitely be low 14's. Strange your MPH is also low. I think i trapped at almost 95 if not at 95. It shouldn't be a difference of 3 mph especially considering the temperature change. Have you done a compression test or anything lately? 3 mph is quite a bit especially if I trapped at 95 during the dead of summer and you trapped 92 on an ice cold day.
I have not done a compression test on it yet...I was going to...it runs real good, still runs strong, etc. it does seem to take a long time to start up, lots of cranking,

I don't know if the long crank-over is an issue having more to do with the alt./battery...the alternator voltage output is a bit low, I think the alt. is tired, still charges just fine, but the voltage will drop down pretty low sometimes...

the other thing that started lately is it has this weird stumbling issue at idle...sometimes, it was doing it yesterday while I was waiting in line for the second run, it's like there is a misfire or something...no codes...yet...I still have not fixed that evap sensor code, but I don't think that's hurting anything. I was going to pull the plugs and see how they look, or maybe if I swap out the steeda wires for some ford wires, although I don't think those are a problem.

It was real strange yesterday, at the end of the run, I was still go pedal to the floor and it fell on it's face for a second, it was almost like it hit what would have been the speed limitor, but for one I wasn't going fast enough to be where it would have been without the tune, and two, no limiter...it only did it for a second and then picked right back up...fuel pump going maybe?

The motor could just be tired with 173,000 miles on it but I'm really not sure at this point, it really does run well...the long cranking time thing is weird, but probably not anything to worry too much about.

I think a lot of the issues with yesterday's runs had to do with the fact that it was my first time running a car at the track...ever...so I was inexperianced and nervous, didn't want to break anything, etc. It's probably just that I need more practace at this.

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 04:08 AM Thread Starter
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1 inch lower when the tires before were 275/35? 35 series barely have any sidewall as it is...

Hmm if it's that much shorter you should definitely be low 14's. Strange your MPH is also low. I think i trapped at almost 95 if not at 95. It shouldn't be a difference of 3 mph especially considering the temperature change. Have you done a compression test or anything lately? 3 mph is quite a bit especially if I trapped at 95 during the dead of summer and you trapped 92 on an ice cold day.
I have not done a compression test on it yet...I was going to...it runs real good, still runs strong, etc. it does seem to take a long time to start up, lots of cranking,

I don't know if the long crank-over is an issue having more to do with the alt./battery...the alternator voltage output is a bit low, I think the alt. is tired, still charges just fine, but the voltage will drop down pretty low sometimes...

the other thing that started lately is it has this weird stumbling issue at idle...sometimes, it was doing it yesterday while I was waiting in line for the second run, it's like there is a misfire or something...no codes...yet...I still have not fixed that evap sensor code, but I don't think that's hurting anything. I was going to pull the plugs and see how they look, or maybe if I swap out the steeda wires for some ford wires, although I don't think those are a problem.

It was real strange yesterday, at the end of the run, I was still go pedal to the floor and it fell on it's face for a second, it was almost like it hit what would have been the speed limitor, but for one I wasn't going fast enough to be where it would have been without the tune, and two, no limiter...it only did it for a second and then picked right back up...fuel pump going maybe?

The motor could just be tired with 173,000 miles on it but I'm really not sure at this point, it really does run well...the long cranking time thing is weird, but probably not anything to worry too much about.

I think a lot of the issues with yesterday's runs had to do with the fact that it was my first time running a car at the track...ever...so I was inexperianced and nervous, didn't want to break anything, etc. It's probably just that I need more practace at this.

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 09:47 AM
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Strange your MPH is also low..
i agree..

as a general rule of thumb, a street car should pick up right at 20MPH between the 8th mile and the 1/4 mile

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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 02:17 PM
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I have not done a compression test on it yet...I was going to...it runs real good, still runs strong, etc. it does seem to take a long time to start up, lots of cranking,

I don't know if the long crank-over is an issue having more to do with the alt./battery...the alternator voltage output is a bit low, I think the alt. is tired, still charges just fine, but the voltage will drop down pretty low sometimes...

the other thing that started lately is it has this weird stumbling issue at idle...sometimes, it was doing it yesterday while I was waiting in line for the second run, it's like there is a misfire or something...no codes...yet...I still have not fixed that evap sensor code, but I don't think that's hurting anything. I was going to pull the plugs and see how they look, or maybe if I swap out the steeda wires for some ford wires, although I don't think those are a problem.

It was real strange yesterday, at the end of the run, I was still go pedal to the floor and it fell on it's face for a second, it was almost like it hit what would have been the speed limitor, but for one I wasn't going fast enough to be where it would have been without the tune, and two, no limiter...it only did it for a second and then picked right back up...fuel pump going maybe?

The motor could just be tired with 173,000 miles on it but I'm really not sure at this point, it really does run well...the long cranking time thing is weird, but probably not anything to worry too much about.

I think a lot of the issues with yesterday's runs had to do with the fact that it was my first time running a car at the track...ever...so I was inexperianced and nervous, didn't want to break anything, etc. It's probably just that I need more practace at this.
Those are some strange issues. Evap canister shouldn't effect performance, in that respect I agree.

I also agree in the fact that your E/T is on the high side for a cold day and was likely attributed mostly to you not being experienced at the track. This is natural... However, i disagree that the inexperience at the track effected your MPH. Generally speaking MPH remains about the same regardless of your E/T. Meaning even if you have traction issues and rip off a 2.3 60 foot you should still have a similar MPH to say a 2.1 60 foot run. Normally MPH is a good gauge of horsepower, I don't know if you've ever been around a street racing circle but just as an example... when 2 cars are about to roll race you'll normally hear "this is a 120 car" all that means is that car traps at 120. Basically it gives an idea of the amount of power the car is putting out, thus one can judge how fast it is from a roll regardless if it's a 13 12 or 11 second car it traps at about 120mph. With all this in mind i'm a bit concerned as to why your low on MPH even with traction problems. Normally every mph gained is roughly equal to a tenth quicker on the E/T for 14 second cars.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Those are some strange issues. Evap canister shouldn't effect performance, in that respect I agree.

I also agree in the fact that your E/T is on the high side for a cold day and was likely attributed mostly to you not being experienced at the track. This is natural... However, i disagree that the inexperience at the track effected your MPH. Generally speaking MPH remains about the same regardless of your E/T. Meaning even if you have traction issues and rip off a 2.3 60 foot you should still have a similar MPH to say a 2.1 60 foot run. Normally MPH is a good gauge of horsepower, I don't know if you've ever been around a street racing circle but just as an example... when 2 cars are about to roll race you'll normally hear "this is a 120 car" all that means is that car traps at 120. Basically it gives an idea of the amount of power the car is putting out, thus one can judge how fast it is from a roll regardless if it's a 13 12 or 11 second car it traps at about 120mph. With all this in mind i'm a bit concerned as to why your low on MPH even with traction problems. Normally every mph gained is roughly equal to a tenth quicker on the E/T for 14 second cars.
Interesting...yeah I never really hung around with the street race crowd...knew a dude in sac who worked at raleys on freeport...had a 96 mark and he used to street race it...this was back in 2001....if I recall he wrecked it one night street racing...situations like that kept me far away from that whole scene...why I never went to the track until now is something that I can't figure out...why not? Ahhh oh well...

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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-02-2010, 02:38 PM
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...why I never went to the track until now is something that I can't figure out...why not? Ahhh oh well...
anyone thats a car person should try it once, that usually leads to a second time, and eventually, every or everyother weekend. lol

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