which is better for drag racing lx rear springs or sport springs - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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which is better for drag racing lx rear springs or sport springs

I have a tork tech blower on my bird. The blower intercooler and all the plumbing add around 100-125 pounds to the nose of the car. I had to add the stiffer sport springs up front to help to compensate for the extra weight. I have had the sport springs on the rear for a while and I don't think it hooks up as well as it did with the lx springs. I am going to swap the rear springs for lx units and give the results. I would like to know your opinion on this swap?
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-14-2010, 12:03 AM
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Can't help you on your question. (sorry) but can you post any pics or did you do a thread on the install of the tork tech?


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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-14-2010, 04:08 AM Thread Starter
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yes it is under the roots supercharging section.
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-14-2010, 07:29 AM
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I've got the stock sport springs on my car.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-14-2010, 08:02 AM
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I run the LX springs in the rear.....with 2 coils cut off each.

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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-14-2010, 10:24 AM
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Sport Springs vs. LX springs

The LX springs are not as stiff as the Sport springs and natural physics will play into effect big time between the two springs. The Stiffer the springs are in the rear, the less traction you will be able to get because a stiff spring will not allow for much maximum weight transfer to the rear. The optimal springs would be really old worn out springs from an earlier thunderbird/cougar for drag racing. You want the nose of the car to fly up in the air and the rear to sit down and old, worn out springs will definitely help out traction.
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-14-2010, 10:39 AM
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or get some adjustable 90/10 coil overs for the front...

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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-14-2010, 06:50 PM
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I have had the best results with the Sport springs myself. I will be swapping back to them...

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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-14-2010, 10:41 PM
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well with the softer springs in back it will let more weight transfer to the rear which will probably help you get better traction

my other ride is an ambulance!
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-15-2010, 05:53 AM
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well with the softer springs in back it will let more weight transfer to the rear which will probably help you get better traction
The problem I had-even with the sport springs,was that my car launches hard enough to bottom out the rear suspension,which will cause a bounce that will unload the rear tires,and cause spin. This was only cured when I increased the spring rate by adding airbags to the springs. This would be FAR worse with the softer LX springs.
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-15-2010, 03:04 PM
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well with the softer springs in back it will let more weight transfer to the rear which will probably help you get better traction
I would think that stiffer springs would hold the tires to the ground better than softer springs, especially when the "weight transfer" is pushing down on the springs.

Needs more stall.
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-15-2010, 10:30 PM
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well with the softer springs in back it will let more weight transfer to the rear which will probably help you get better traction
I'm with JL on this one. I am cutting 1.73 60 foots on lowing springs with 260 horsepower and not alot of gear... sports would be better but not in the budget currently. Wheel hop will kill you with soft springs. Especially if you have some power.

One thing i have noticed is that most of the better 60 footing t birds have got airbags in their springs or a minimum of their right spring.

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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-18-2010, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Langton View Post
The problem I had-even with the sport springs,was that my car launches hard enough to bottom out the rear suspension,which will cause a bounce that will unload the rear tires,and cause spin. This was only cured when I increased the spring rate by adding airbags to the springs. This would be FAR worse with the softer LX springs.
JL
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I'm with JL on this one. I am cutting 1.73 60 foots on lowing springs with 260 horsepower and not alot of gear... sports would be better but not in the budget currently. Wheel hop will kill you with soft springs. Especially if you have some power.

One thing i have noticed is that most of the better 60 footing t birds have got airbags in their springs or a minimum of their right spring.
i get really bad wheel hop in my mustang on stock motor and suspension on street tires. wouldn't lca's cure the wheel hop issue for the most part. most people have been telling me to get them for that very reason as it helped them considerably.

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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-18-2010, 02:29 AM
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damn .



i get really bad wheel hop in my mustang on stock motor and suspension on street tires. wouldn't lca's cure the wheel hop issue for the most part. most people have been telling me to get them for that very reason as it helped them considerably.
LCA's are a good place to start, you may want to look into relocation brackets as well. There are soo many suspension parts for an S197 mustang it can make your head spin but UMI is a good place to start. I don't own a set but the UMI roto joints are supposed to be excellent for helping eliminate wheel hop and also improving your cornering grip as well. You should at least consider these.
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-18-2010, 02:56 AM
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ive got H&R sport springs in the back with airbags on both sides at around 20 psi i think. no wheel hop and 1.6 short times.

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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
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LCA's are a good place to start, you may want to look into relocation brackets as well. There are soo many suspension parts for an S197 mustang it can make your head spin but UMI is a good place to start. I don't own a set but the UMI roto joints are supposed to be excellent for helping eliminate wheel hop and also improving your cornering grip as well. You should at least consider these.
yeah i juts dont have any money as i put a pxton novi2200 on lay away once thats paid off i plan on doing the suspension with either a griggs set up or mm

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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 04:14 PM
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wtf are h&r "sport" springs?

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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 04:38 PM
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wtf are h&r "sport" springs?

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It was described to me like that some years ago. All I know is they are h&r stamped on em.

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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 06:10 PM
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don't forget, these cars are IRS, therefore the softer the spring the more camber is going to be produced therefore minimizing the amount of contact patch the tires are going to get.

Stiffer = better.

put the battery in the rear and delete the front crash bar if you're trying to get a good amount of weigh transfer to the rear.
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 10:15 PM
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don't forget, these cars are IRS, therefore the softer the spring the more camber is going to be produced therefore minimizing the amount of contact patch the tires are going to get.

Stiffer = better.

put the battery in the rear and delete the front crash bar if you're trying to get a good amount of weigh transfer to the rear.
maybe its the irs but most of the mustang guys seem to love hard in the front and soft out back?

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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-23-2010, 09:21 AM
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maybe its the irs but most of the mustang guys seem to love hard in the front and soft out back?
Hello

That may be true, BUT T-birds have a very different suspension set-up!

I run circle track, 550-600 front(way heavier that stock)
300-380 in the rear. Softer than stock!


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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-23-2010, 09:25 AM
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Hello

That may be true, BUT T-birds have a very different suspension set-up!

I run circle track, 550-600 front(way heavier that stock)
300-380 in the rear. Softer than stock!

Ahhh yes,but in circle track-you're after a much different vehicle attitude when racing. The purpose in drag racing is to plant the rear on launch,then get the front as low as possible when at speed to reduce wind drag.
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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-23-2010, 09:39 AM
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maybe its the irs but most of the mustang guys seem to love hard in the front and soft out back?
of course it's the IRS that makes the difference, mustang guys don't have to worry about their contact patch of their tires when they swap out springs, why? A solid axle doesn't cause the tires to camber out when force is applied. They can run a softer spring to plant the rear-end because the contact patch never changes on a solid axle setup.

IRS, softer springs = more squat = less contact patch = no traction.
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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-23-2010, 09:55 AM
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maybe its the irs but most of the mustang guys seem to love hard in the front and soft out back?
That's backwards from what should work best. Soft in the front transfers weight to the rear, stiff in the back pushes that weight down.

The weight is going to transfer no matter what. You have to decide how hard you want it to push the tires down onto the track.

Al

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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-23-2010, 10:20 AM
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That's backwards from what should work best. Soft in the front transfers weight to the rear, stiff in the back pushes that weight down.

The weight is going to transfer no matter what. You have to decide how hard you want it to push the tires down onto the track.

Al
OK Lets go back to stock.

Factory rear springs are almost double the front. No matter what suspension package you have. LX, SC or Sport.

Don't go with what a different chassis runs!!

Some of the camber squat can be tuned out. Adjusting to the high side of the toe adjust or raising the mount of the lower control arm.

I started running my car with similar springs as the other cars. HUGH PUSH!

that was 1100, Now I am at 600lb ish. front.
rears were about 275-300 now 350-380's
most Metric's are running 1000 front 175 rears. So way different!

Listen to these Guy's that run a similar type of racing.
try to start close, Then fine turn to your track & driving style.
every track may be different.


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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-24-2010, 12:52 PM
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i have eibachs all around and pull 2.0 60ft's
on 245/45/17 reiken raptors. shock's are new autorides up front and tokico blue's used of my 96 bird that i had. all the tranny and irs bushing's and motormounts have been changed and front end rebuilt with a rear shocktower brace in the trunk.
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by T6Rocket View Post
That's backwards from what should work best. Soft in the front transfers weight to the rear, stiff in the back pushes that weight down.

The weight is going to transfer no matter what. You have to decide how hard you want it to push the tires down onto the track.

Al
maybe i have it backwards? still a rookie to drag racing

my other ride is an ambulance!
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Langton View Post
The problem I had-even with the sport springs,was that my car launches hard enough to bottom out the rear suspension,which will cause a bounce that will unload the rear tires,and cause spin. This was only cured when I increased the spring rate by adding airbags to the springs. This would be FAR worse with the softer LX springs.
JL


jl, what are your usual 60' times?

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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 09:10 PM
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jl, what are your usual 60' times?
1.68-1.74
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-27-2010, 12:36 AM
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1.68-1.74
JL
thats what i was guessing.



steven
i have not had any issues with running these h&r springs with the airbags in both sides running 20lbs of air i think, and about 14psi in the slicks. with the setup i was getting 1.64-1.68 60' times with no wheel hop, and not spinning the tires.

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