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post #1 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Looking for ways to lower ET

Looking for options of lowering my 1/8 mile time for this spring (and ultimately 1/4 mile). See full list of mods in sig!

I figured easiest thing to do is weight reduction. I've cleared the trunk of carpet, spare, and jack. Back seats are probably staying in as it looks a little trashy when there's nothing back there... They might come out just at the track.

I was also thinking about deleting power steering and A/C with a smaller accessory belt but I'm not completely deleting either one as its my daily driver. Not doing electric water pump - way too expensive for so little gain. But open to other suggestions.

I believe I am running out of room on the stock 19# injectors. It will need a tune to run 21#s so I was thinking about going with 24# or 30# injectors so I can run e85. Are the 19# injectors limiting me on power or is it more of a concern of reliability and the motor running lean?

I'm thinking about purchasing a pair of slicks and a pair of '95 fan blades to help my 60' times. I spin pretty good on the first few feet of the track but after 10 feet or so it hooks dead-on. Do you think slicks are a waste of money this early and I need to install a higher stall TC first or go ahead and get slicks?

Current fastest time slip... Leaving off idle with no brake stall. I've been told to try 1800 rpm if I can manage it. I know my 60' time sucks so if you have any tips on launching its greatly appreciated. I really want low 9s before I get my new TC..


-Patrick
[email protected] on used street tires
See profile for full list of mods

Pics here.. http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=129479
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post #2 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 09:42 PM
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slicks, real TC and real gears. Done. next question?

but for reals, you're not gonna cut down 6/10ths of a second in the 1/8th. Thats the equivalent of dropping ~1.20s in the 1/4. That's a tall order without spending some dough.

Under STP, 19 lb/hr injectors are good to about 280rwhp. You're far from needing more on gasoline, although for E85 you definitely would need bigger injectors.
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post #3 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 11:18 PM
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I'm running 39 lb/hr injectors for E85. Cutting A/C and power steering isn't going to do much for you. Seriously....you'd just be wasting your time and making your car less enjoyable. Get a higher stall converter and do a PI head swap.

Michael M. ASE P2 Automobile Parts Specialist.

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post #4 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-22-2014, 11:52 PM
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The only drag AC has during racing is from the pulley mass, the compressor isn't turning. Power steering is another story since you're constantly pumping but you said it yourself, the gain is minimal and nearly immeasurable.

And before anyone asks, I deleted A/C in my car purely to simplify things. I tinker around too much to have to worry about buying freon every time I go poking around

-Matt
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post #5 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 05:40 AM
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And before anyone asks, I deleted A/C in my car purely to simplify things. I tinker around too much to have to worry about buying freon every time I go poking around
Your car used R-12?

Without spending any money, well, I'll say that you can adjust your shift points. Datalog acceleration and shift such that the acceleration before the shift is as close to the acceleration after the shift as possible.

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post #6 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 06:49 AM
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Just don't go above 6500.

Michael M. ASE P2 Automobile Parts Specialist.

1996 Thunderbird LX. Gone, but not forgotten Oct 1995-March 24 2016 Trick Flow headded, E85 guzzling beast.

1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

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post #7 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 06:55 AM
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In conjunction with GM>

1. Gear= Minimum of 4.10's
2. Converter- 3800
3. Fan blades and 26" drag tires

Take time tweaking the tune at the track. Power is power, torque is torque Etc, Etc.

The bang for the buck is the first 60 ft. The above mentioned parts will get you that. You need to get the car out of the hole, hooking and accelerating. That my friend sets up the whole run. The 2.22 60 ft on that pass is not good considering the gear and the mods. Yeah, you probably are spinning, so you need tires and more converter with the aftermarket cam. You should easily be down in the high 1.9's- 2.0's and that is what you need to work on to get those 1/8's and 1/4 mile times down. After you get there with the 60's, you need to be working on tweaking the tune for optimum acceleration at the track either with a tuner or someone there that can do it for you. Shift points, converter lock up and a multitude of things make the ET. Its a combination of everything not just HP and torque. I've seen as much as 2-3 tenths in the 1/4 with just minor tweaking on shift points. Same with the 60 ft. That mid 1.9 in comparable conditions will get you around 7/10ths in the 1/4 all things being equal. Huge differences.

Remember also, track elevation and conditions determine the whole runs as well. For example, if you are running at 2000 ft elevation and 80 degrees, its not going to run like a sea level track in 45 degree air either in the 60, 1/8th or 1/4 mile. Just that simple.

Baseline the car again in decent weather, do the modification as soon as you can afterwards and try to get numbers in similar conditions. That's the only way you'll know or be able to see the improvements. Also, run the car often and learn the car. The DRIVER mod makes a huge difference too. I often hear from people over many years "How hard is it to drag race and automatic". I then laugh cause I know they are idiots. It boils down to the water box, heating tires, staging, launching, etc, etc. Practice, consistency and tuning make a lot of difference.

I've driven enough MN12 & other cars at the strip over the past 30+ years, (Not mine) and outrun owners numbers with their own cars to prove the point.

Just use this as knowledge and advice to get you where you want to go.

Steve
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"There's a bad, built NA 4.6L COMING Spring-Summer 2018"

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post #8 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 07:04 AM
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To add on to what Steve said, when I had my stock Mark VIII converter, I used to wing 2.10 60 ft times. That converter only stalled to 2400 RPM on my combo before I had the heads and converter swapped. My best 1/8th was a 9.30 at 75.30 mph.

Edit: After looking at your time slip again and based off of your mph time, as your car sits, it is capable of a better time if you could just get it to hook with better tires.

Michael M. ASE P2 Automobile Parts Specialist.

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1998 Mustang GT premium. Trans Go shift kit, Bassani catted x-pipe, PI heads, cams, intake swap, Accufab elbow, SCT Xcal 4 tune, Eibach Pro-kit, Maximum Motorsports Caster/camber plates, fat tires. Banging audio system.

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post #9 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies guys you're all a wealth of information, getting it out of y'all is the hard part

Thanks GM that's good to hear because I'd rather not upgrade injectors unless I have to. 9 flat does not seem that achievable with mods but I'm hoping for 9.3s? At least a 9.4 with what I have currently. Later with high stall and slicks I would like to see 9 flat maybe 8.9x?

I don't think I will do a head swap on this motor. I feel like a PI head swap is not worth the money and time. TFS heads...now those would be worth it but I don't have $3k to blow on that. lol

Matt - I figured I would try the smaller serpentine belt as I could probably pick one up from autozone for as cheap as $25-30 and see if any gains are made. I saw a post by kdanner while on one of Luke's old threads (paintme205) saying it was worth about a tenth in the 1/4 mile - a 64" belt should fit with underdrives. So it probably won't show much if any gain in the 1/8th but every little bit helps and for such a low price what the heck.

Brandon and Steve - I have a dang flip chip so I can't datalog my acceleration. I keep putting it off on purchasing a handheld tuner so I'm thinking this is my first priority. The xcal3 will datalog without any other software right? Don't have to hook it up to my computer? I will search around and come back with questions on that I have some money coming in this February that will likely go to a handheld tuner.

Steve - Great post, Thank you. I was going to ask if 3800 stall is enough stall to get the best time? If I can daily drive a 4000 or 4200 stall and it will act somewhat normal for city driving I will put that in there. I am also asking this because I don't think I can go with more gear as I do too much highway driving. Don't want to see my mileage drop below 20mpg @ 80 mph (currently I'm getting 23 ish)

This leads me to my next question... I'm afraid I won't be able to get a better ET with a 3800 stall because I will be spinning the first 60' of the track. lol. Has anyone tried launching with a 3800 stall on street tires? Then I also feel that getting slicks with only a 2800 stall is not going to be worth very much.. What do you think? High stall TC then slicks? Or Slicks then stall?

Michael - a 9.3 would be awesome. I would be happy with that. I think if I can adjust shift points and drop my 60' time I can pull that out. Was that with e85 or gasoline? Did you drop your tire pressure at all?

Thanks again guys.

-Patrick
[email protected] on used street tires
See profile for full list of mods

Pics here.. http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=129479
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post #10 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 12:55 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys you're all a wealth of information, getting it out of y'all is the hard part

Thanks GM that's good to hear because I'd rather not upgrade injectors unless I have to. 9 flat does not seem that achievable with mods but I'm hoping for 9.3s? At least a 9.4 with what I have currently. Later with high stall and slicks I would like to see 9 flat maybe 8.9x?

I don't think I will do a head swap on this motor. I feel like a PI head swap is not worth the money and time. TFS heads...now those would be worth it but I don't have $3k to blow on that. lol

Matt - I figured I would try the smaller serpentine belt as I could probably pick one up from autozone for as cheap as $25-30 and see if any gains are made. I saw a post by kdanner while on one of Luke's old threads (paintme205) saying it was worth about a tenth in the 1/4 mile - a 64" belt should fit with underdrives. So it probably won't show much if any gain in the 1/8th but every little bit helps and for such a low price what the heck.

Brandon and Steve - I have a dang flip chip so I can't datalog my acceleration. I keep putting it off on purchasing a handheld tuner so I'm thinking this is my first priority. The xcal3 will datalog without any other software right? Don't have to hook it up to my computer? I will search around and come back with questions on that I have some money coming in this February that will likely go to a handheld tuner.

Steve - Great post, Thank you. I was going to ask if 3800 stall is enough stall to get the best time? If I can daily drive a 4000 or 4200 stall and it will act somewhat normal for city driving I will put that in there. I am also asking this because I don't think I can go with more gear as I do too much highway driving. Don't want to see my mileage drop below 20mpg @ 80 mph (currently I'm getting 23 ish)

This leads me to my next question... I'm afraid I won't be able to get a better ET with a 3800 stall because I will be spinning the first 60' of the track. lol. Has anyone tried launching with a 3800 stall on street tires? Then I also feel that getting slicks with only a 2800 stall is not going to be worth very much.. What do you think? High stall TC then slicks? Or Slicks then stall?

Michael - a 9.3 would be awesome. I would be happy with that. I think if I can adjust shift points and drop my 60' time I can pull that out. Was that with e85 or gasoline? Did you drop your tire pressure at all?

Thanks again guys.
First mod would be tires. Check around to see what's out there used. Sometimes you can get a decent set for half the price or less. Try to find something in a 26" give or take .5 inch. There are drag radials and bias ply in those sizes. Converter or the rest will NOT help if you can't hook it period. I've run with BFG TA street tires in 255-60-15s with more stall than that and actually pulled mid to high 1.8's but that's the best its done. I have gotten 1.9's out of it more than enough times with street tires. Tire pressure adjustments should also be made with drag tires on regardless.

Next would be the handheld tuner with tunes on it and where you can adjust shift points and gather data.

Regarding 4.10s I've knocked down plenty of 23+ MPH averages on trips with those without any issues. But I normally ran at or around 72-73 MPH. It all depends on your driving habits and right foot alteration ROFL!!!!! With a good converter, the 3.73's will work ok with what you now have. I get well over 20MPG with my 4:30's and 255-60-15's approx. 27" or so tall street tires.

As far as the belt that is an option. Its an old hotrod trick to do that and it does work. About a 1/0th seems right. As for me, I've never actually pulled mine and changed them to try it. By doing that you are removing load from the engine and therefore putting a little bit more power to the wheels.

The converter along with the tires and gear again would be the most effective but also the most expensive. Honestly on your set up you really aren't gaining anything at over a 3800 stall. But if you are planning to do other mods, swap engines, etc down the road then go for it.

Steve
1996 Cougar XR7 Special Edition (Street & Strip)
"There's a bad, built NA 4.6L COMING Spring-Summer 2018"

Elite member of the Halfshaft snapping, Auburn eating, Tranny crunching, Piston Melting, Tire lifting, 500+ lb ft Torque Club.

Cougar ET-Stock 4.6 shortblock/Stock PI headswap Bullitt NA 12.94 @ 105+
Nitrous 11.75 @ 114 MPH

2008 Ford Powerstroke 6.4 TT F250 4X4 Supercrew: 12.82 @ 105 MPH

"IN MEMORY OF MY FRIENDS JOEL BENDER 1979-2006", JOHNNY LANGTON 1975-2011, and MICHAEL VIVERETTE 1953-2013"
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post #11 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 01:41 PM
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Looking at my old NPI set up before switching to the Bullitt/PI stuff in excellent conditions at Cecil Co MD in April 2004: This was the best pass it made ever in stock configuration, Stock cams, etc. I did have several other sub 14.0 passes that day.

Steve D.


date 60 1/8 1/4 MPH
4/04 DR 1.87 8.74 13.89 97.0 4.6L NPI/NA with bolt-ons, 4.10s, PI converter, 26" drag Radials. 1996 Cougar

And yet another


Jim M.

03/09 DR 1.85 9.06 14.20 96.14 14.20 @ 96.14 4.6L /NPI bolt ons, 3.73's, DD Converter, 26" drag radials. 1995 TBird


So it can be done. You have more mods. Aftermarket cams and Intake correct?

Steve
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"There's a bad, built NA 4.6L COMING Spring-Summer 2018"

Elite member of the Halfshaft snapping, Auburn eating, Tranny crunching, Piston Melting, Tire lifting, 500+ lb ft Torque Club.

Cougar ET-Stock 4.6 shortblock/Stock PI headswap Bullitt NA 12.94 @ 105+
Nitrous 11.75 @ 114 MPH

2008 Ford Powerstroke 6.4 TT F250 4X4 Supercrew: 12.82 @ 105 MPH

"IN MEMORY OF MY FRIENDS JOEL BENDER 1979-2006", JOHNNY LANGTON 1975-2011, and MICHAEL VIVERETTE 1953-2013"

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post #12 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Brandon and Steve - I have a dang flip chip so I can't datalog my acceleration. I keep putting it off on purchasing a handheld tuner so I'm thinking this is my first priority. The xcal3 will datalog without any other software right? Don't have to hook it up to my computer? I will search around and come back with questions on that I have some money coming in this February that will likely go to a handheld tuner.
You do need PC software to configure any tuner, but it is free. There is an extensive tutorial on how to do this in the EEC tuning forum. You will always gain from getting shift points down, just not as much as those who are doing 3 gears in a 1/4mi setup.

And also never listen to anyone who tells you to drop down in gears to "go faster". Just in case they decide to chime in here and also say that datalogging doesn't help you because it's not 'real world' yet a datalog comes from a real run, lol.
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post #13 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Mgino96tbird46 View Post
Just don't go above 6500.
Why 6500?

Curious as to why; I have my revlimit set lower.

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post #14 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 07:47 PM
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Why 6500?

Curious as to why; I have my revlimit set lower.
Ballooning the converter, valvespring failure, connecting rod failure...

The stock parts just aren't intended for that kind of rpm.

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post #15 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 08:12 PM
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Ballooning the converter, killing the trans, breaking rods, floating valves...

Yep, we've got it covered.

Not to mention stock heads don't flow worth a crap to support shifting at that RPM. Peak power is in the low-mid 5000s, and shift points will likely be in the upper 5000/low 6000 range, depending on the combo.

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Your car used R-12?
Pssh I siphoned off some R22 from the house.....Smartass

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post #17 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 08:32 PM
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Under STP, 19 lb/hr injectors are good to about 280rwhp. You're far from needing more on gasoline, although for E85 you definitely would need bigger injectors.
That seems high to me for some reason... Is the actual BSFC of a stock 4.6 that much lower than .5? I would have figured something closer to 260 RWHP at 100% DC (assuming a BSFC of .5, max. BHP of 304, driveline loss of 14.4%). If I cross-check with an AFR of 12:1 and assume 10hp per pound of air/min, that leads me to an identical figure...

Okay, okay, I'll measure mine when I get the car out in the springtime!

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post #18 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 09:10 PM
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Pssh I siphoned off some R22 from the house.....Smartass
I've heard r134a is going to $0 a pound in 2015; time to stock up.

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Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
Oh, you know me, I do what I can...



That seems high to me for some reason... Is the actual BSFC of a stock 4.6 that much lower than .5? I would have figured something closer to 260 RWHP at 100% DC (assuming a BSFC of .5, max. BHP of 304, driveline loss of 14.4%). If I cross-check with an AFR of 12:1 and assume 10hp per pound of air/min, that leads me to an identical figure...

Okay, okay, I'll measure mine when I get the car out in the springtime!
that's about right since usually N/A cars are rated at 0.5 BSFC due to the fact that most will run at 12:1 air:fuel ratio. If you lean it out to 12.8:1, then 260 * 12.8/12 = 277 rwhp. Basically BSFC has to revolve around the designated air:fuel ratio (all other things held constant). 12.8:1 is not out of the question, hence why you may be able to get more power out of the same fuel delivery. It all depends on what is assumed. As you can see, a slight change from 12:1 to 12.8:1 can allow for nearly 20rwhp more capability out of the fuel system.
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post #20 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-23-2014, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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Steve,
Ok so looks like slicks or drag radials will be first on the list so I can actually get some traction off the line. Whatever I can get my hands on for a good price. I found some slicks not too far away that say 26x10.5x15 I assume thats 10.5" wide? Is that going to be too much for the stock 6.5" rim?

Jeez, 8.74 1/8th 13.89 in the 1/4 with a 1.87 60' time! That's crazy for almost a stock npi motor with a PI converter and 4.10 gears! What rpm did you launch at? Any other tips for pulling a 60' time like that?? I hear Ben's cougar with a 5 speed swap, bullitt intake, tune, 3.73 gears, slicks and some bolt-ons run 8.8s in the 1/8th. But he can launch much higher than a PI converter.

GM,
Ok great thanks, I'll have a look at that thread. I will keep an eye out for a handheld so I can adjust shift points. 6500 rpm seems pretty high, can a stock '97 tranny with jmod and mark 8 TC handle those rpms? I was kinda thinking 6000 tops. Right now she shifts at 56-5700 rpm?

I am pumped for going back to the track this spring.

-Patrick
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post #21 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Tbird1997 View Post
6500 rpm seems pretty high, can a stock '97 tranny with jmod and mark 8 TC handle those rpms? I was kinda thinking 6000 tops. Right now she shifts at 56-5700 rpm?

I am pumped for going back to the track this spring.
Yes, but the chances of your needing to shift that high with unmolested npi heads is very slim. My guess is you'll shift 6000-6100 tops (heck, I shift at 62-6300, granted it's only a 'rough' dial-in).

The biggest concern up there with stock guts are the stock powdered rods. 6500 is their limit for sure. The trans, without internal modifications beyond the J-mod, should be fine at 6500; the closer you get to 7000 the more likely it is you'll dislodge a snap ring or something.

You'll have a lot of fun experimenting once you get the XCal. I know I do.

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post #22 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbird1997 View Post
Steve,
Ok so looks like slicks or drag radials will be first on the list so I can actually get some traction off the line. Whatever I can get my hands on for a good price. I found some slicks not too far away that say 26x10.5x15 I assume thats 10.5" wide? Is that going to be too much for the stock 6.5" rim?

Jeez, 8.74 1/8th 13.89 in the 1/4 with a 1.87 60' time! That's crazy for almost a stock npi motor with a PI converter and 4.10 gears! What rpm did you launch at? Any other tips for pulling a 60' time like that?? I hear Ben's cougar with a 5 speed swap, bullitt intake, tune, 3.73 gears, slicks and some bolt-ons run 8.8s in the 1/8th. But he can launch much higher than a PI converter.
Those are a little wide for what you want. You need to find a set of 26 X 8 or 26 X 9 Largest, 15" tire and wheel combo. A 235-60-15 or 1 size larger drag radial will also work. Not sure exactly whats available in DR tire sizes these days. I've run these on stock 15" wheels with no problems in the past.

If you can find an 8" aftermarket rim then those 26 X 10.50's would be fine except a bit of overkill for your application.

As far as launching goes, each car is usually different. You just have to put in some seat time and see what the car likes with tires on a track that hooks. I have a procedure that I follow with all changes to mine. 1st work on the 60 times, then on the 1-2 shift points, then the 2-3 shift points. But in order to do that you must be consistant ( EVERY TIME) in the burnout box, heating tires, staging, etc etc. If not the 60's slips will be all over the place. The same things happen when traction is marginal. Its hard to look and see what its actually doing in that situation. Again, driver mod.

But rest assured when you see the 60's dropping drastically and consistantly so will the 1/8 and 1/4 times as long as the car is tuned and runs well out past the stripe.

Steve
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post #23 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
Yes, but the chances of your needing to shift that high with unmolested npi heads is very slim. My guess is you'll shift 6000-6100 tops (heck, I shift at 62-6300, granted it's only a 'rough' dial-in).

The biggest concern up there with stock guts are the stock powdered rods. 6500 is their limit for sure. The trans, without internal modifications beyond the J-mod, should be fine at 6500; the closer you get to 7000 the more likely it is you'll dislodge a snap ring or something.

You'll have a lot of fun experimenting once you get the XCal. I know I do.
With his Stage 1's and PI Intake I'd expect shift points at around 6K give or take and dependant on gear change. Again, that needs fine tuned on the track. Anything much beyond that isn't going to help as peak power will likely be in the 4900-5200 RPM range, holding till around 5500 then rapidly dropping of by 6200 RPM with that set up.

Steve
1996 Cougar XR7 Special Edition (Street & Strip)
"There's a bad, built NA 4.6L COMING Spring-Summer 2018"

Elite member of the Halfshaft snapping, Auburn eating, Tranny crunching, Piston Melting, Tire lifting, 500+ lb ft Torque Club.

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post #24 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 08:23 AM
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http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=143332 i dont think he ever sold these. they may help. Stuck like glue on my old car.

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post #25 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 09:19 AM
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Q: How much impact would it be for the OP to go to skinny front tires? How drastic is the unsprung weight reduction?

Also, if he's only travelling 1/8 mi, does aero really matter as much (vs 1/4 mi or a HS oval)? The hood and trunk can be unbolted at the track fairly easily.

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post #26 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-24-2014, 09:30 AM
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Michael - a 9.3 would be awesome. I would be happy with that. I think if I can adjust shift points and drop my 60' time I can pull that out. Was that with e85 or gasoline? Did you drop your tire pressure at all?

Thanks again guys.
Yeah, it was on E85. That was when I made my 14.5 pass.


He's only trapping at 77-78 mph. IIRC, aero doesn't really come into play that much until you're in the triple digits.

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post #27 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again for the info guys it's a lot of help. I'm still looking around for a set of slicks, I decided to skip out on those 26x10.5 they would look awesome and I would hook for sure but I think they would slow me down at the end -being so big. I found a set of drag radials that would work for stock fan blades... They're not slicks but should get the job done.

I found a couple unlocked xcal 3s on corral for $250 if some good tires don't come along soon I think I will jump on that. I'll keep the thread updated!

-Patrick
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See profile for full list of mods

Pics here.. http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=129479

Last edited by Tbird1997; 02-07-2014 at 01:53 PM. Reason: xcal 3 not 2**
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post #28 of 44 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014, 04:06 PM
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Check craigslist first, I got my last unlocked X2 for $125 and was able to plug it in and verify it being unlocked before I bought it

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post #29 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-01-2014, 11:05 AM
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I decided to skip out on those 26x10.5 they would look awesome and I would hook for sure but I think they would slow me down at the end -being so big.
They may be too big for your rims, but on the correct rim they would not slow you down. 28's might though.

However, always buy new drag tires. Buying someone's used junk will just guarantee "also ran" status. They are at their best in the first year, after that traction really drops off.

Al

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post #30 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-07-2014, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Matt - Wish I could get that lucky. I'll try searching for X2s.

Lowest I can find for an X3 is $230. Seems a bit ridiculous as custom email tunes are $100 each.. So,
$330 for a used x3 with 1 tune,
$430 for a used x3 with 2 tunes,
$530!! for a used x3 with 3 tunes!!

OR you can go to americanmuscle.com and get a brand new X3 and 3 free custom tunes for $379?! Please tell me if I have missed something here!



T6Rocket - I was thinking about weight vs. a smaller DR or slick. It might not make a huge difference but no reason to have that much extra tread when I won't need it and it just adds rotational weight.

I didn't know that about buying used drag tires.. That kinda sucks. I guess I'll look more at drag radials so I can drive them on the street too.

-Patrick
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Pics here.. http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=129479
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